2000 GMC Jimmy Fuel Pump/Regulator question

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  #1  
Old 09-04-09, 09:55 PM
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2000 GMC Jimmy Fuel Pump/Regulator question

I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4, 4 door. Lately it has developed missing that occurs mostly when the engine is warm and during acceleration. I took it to a shop and they ran a diagnostic, turns out the fuel pressure is a little low: 51-56 psi.

They wanted me to spend nearly $1000 to replace the fuel pump, I instantly started looking for cheaper ways to fix the problem. After some research it seems this is either a problem with the fuel pump, or the fuel regulator. The regulator looks far easier to get to, and replace, and is cheaper.

So i'm looking for another opinion, should I try the cheapest and easiest option first? (being the fuel regulator) or is there no way that could be the problem and I should just replace the fuel pump?

Any opinions and facts are welcome. THX!Beer 4U2
 
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  #2  
Old 09-05-09, 07:51 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
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The fuel pump on those cars are a faily common item to go out. I had the one on my 1999 jimmy replaced at 125,000 miles and the one on my wife's 2000 Blazer went out at 95,000.

The price quoted ($1000) seems high. The pump is not cheap and is about $360. My mechanic dropped the tank flushed it out and installed a new fuel pump for $140 - About $500 total.

I think the pump and regulator are one in the same. I am not an expert mechanic, but would get a second opinion on the diagnosis. I just parked my car, went into a store and it would not even start when I came out.

Dick
 
  #3  
Old 09-05-09, 08:28 AM
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caravan power window works occasionally

I have a 2003 Caravan in which the driver side power window works only occasionally I have removed the panel but am not sure where to proceed from here. Any ideas?
 
  #4  
Old 09-05-09, 12:37 PM
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It depends how they ran the diagnosis. If they ran it at the fuel rail = could be either the pump or regulator. If they ran it on the line coming from the pump = just the pump.

A pump that turns out the pressure to specs, but fails under a volume test could be the pump, filter, or line obstruction.
 
  #5  
Old 09-05-09, 03:07 PM
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Is this a 4.3L VORTEC????... ..4 or 6 cylinder......????
 
  #6  
Old 09-05-09, 03:23 PM
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My experience was with a pair of 4.3L Vortechs (1999 Jimmy and 2000 Blazer).

I did not know where the pressure regulator was, but assumed it was with the pump.

When mine was towed in (thanks to insurance) the pump was putting out only 5 or 10 psi, which is probably far below that required to kick off anything compared to the specs required.

I was lucky that the mechanic had a pump on the shelf for his wife's Jimmy and has had them come in frequently. I was out and going in 3 1/2 hours after he dropped me off and picked me up - It is nice to have an honest mechanic with a shop 3 blocks away.

Dick
 
  #7  
Old 09-05-09, 04:37 PM
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thx for the replies

Thanks for the replies. I was able to get a hold of my brother-in-law and he told me a way I can test the regulator to see if it's any good. I crawled underneath it today and eye balled the gas tank, decided I should probly find a professional.

Concretemasonry, I see your location is in minnesota, I currently live in Minneapolis. By chance is your mechanic somewhere in the area? It's been difficult for me to find a mechanic around here I can trust.
 
  #8  
Old 09-05-09, 06:19 PM
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The regulator on a vortec is under the intake plenum, snapped into a receptacle on the "Spyder"....

Vortec engines are Central Injection...Which means a SINGLE injector with Distribution Tubes.....

If this is indeed a Vortec we are dealing with...then go back and get your Diagnostic fee back......Those fuel pumps dont put out anywhere near 55 PSI...much less being a bit low.....The distribution tubes dump at 37 psi.....

If the regulator were leaking...(Common Issue with Vortec) the leakage would puddle up in the intake chamber , and get sucked in and burned......Without being measured by The pcm's Injector pulse width. This in turn causes a "Flooding" effect, and can easily be responsible for stumble ,stutter, misfire ,hiss, cough and Fart.

If you are not absolutely confident in your abilities, removing the plenum is not difficult, but it definitely is not for First timers or the faint at heart.... A reputable , and trusted opinion is your best diagnostic tool on this one...
 
  #9  
Old 09-05-09, 06:34 PM
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Chrome -

I am in Vadnais Heights, MN. (NE suburb of St. Paul)

My mechanic/shop can be slow but they will get things out for regular customers if it a rush. Otherwise, it can be a couple of days if there are other routine things ahead of you.

I always tell him if is really needed or if it can wait. I have that luxury because we have two cars to juggle if necessary.

Once during my 100,000 mile service (plugs, wires, distributor cap, etc.), I asked about my serpentine belt since I had a paranoid situation where I lost one and there was not a replacement available ($100 installed). He looked and said it did not need one one now. A few months ago, I have the common problem (GM vs. coolant supplier dispute) of an intake manifold. I had him replace it. when he was done he said I was earlier concerned about my serpentine belt so he took iton himself to replace it and only charged for the belt since he had a lot removed. there may have been some minor labor involved and it could have been buried somewhere in the other labor, but it must have been minimal.

You can find a good local mechanic that does not work for the rip-off places that mark up retail parts prices by 20-30% and them look for more to add on the bill. (Firestone/Tires Plus, Goodrich, Midas, etc.). Even a dealer can be cheaper.

Look around and ask some questions. Make sure they have the basic manuals, equipment and can do scans and will tell when and where to go elsewhere. It also helps if your were a Corvette owner and he has a classic 'vette (Sting Ray). He is also known to escape for long week-end (Fri aft. until Mon AM) to his lake home 200 miles away and to be gone for kids hockey tournaments.

Wherever you are, you can find a good, honest basic mechanic that likes to do things along with a couple of employees. You may run into a bad one or two, so just keep looking especially with a sound, high mileage car(s) like mine (135,000 and 105,000 miles) that I do not want to trade unless I win the lottery and can buy a Audi A6 3.0T Quattro sedan. If I really win big it will be a Audi R8 and get on the 2 year waiting list and/or buy both. - Not to slight the non-AMG Mercedes and BMW's, but they are not in the same league.

Dick
 
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