1986 Ranger 2.9 Crank no start, got spark

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  #1  
Old 10-03-09, 09:28 AM
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1986 Ranger 2.9 Crank no start, got spark

Hi Friends,
I have a 1986 Ranger 2.9 fuel injected manual 4x4.
I've only had it a few weeks & not driven it too many miles.
Yesterday I started it up, & drove it into the pasture for about 100 yards & it stopped dead, no warning as if a switch was shut off.
I spent a little time reading previous posts by reading the archives here. (thanks for those)

What I know so far:
I checked for spark at the plugs & that seems strong.

When I turn on the ignition switch to run, I hear the fuel pump run a few seconds, then stop.

If I depress the Schroder valve on the fuel rail, some gas spurts out. So I believe that rules out the inertia switch?

I pulled off the large rubber air hose from (I believe throttle body) that goes into the intake, held the accelerator pedal down with a rock, & sprayed some starting fluid/ether inside. The motor started just a crank or 2 then stopped.

I know there are some relays or fuses involved here, If you guys tell me to check something, please help me out by telling me where those goobers are located.
& as always,
Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 10-03-09, 10:57 AM
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How many miles are on it? I believe I would begin by taking off the distributor and make sure the rotor is turning and is pointing toward the #1 spark plug terminal on the cap when the timing marks are around 5 btc. This is thinking interms of the timing chain.

If that checks out, I would get a noid light at a parts store and check the injector pulses to see if you're getting anything there.

Also you can get a cheap beeper for pulling the codes at a parts store. The connector for it is on the passenger fender, tucked back into the firewall or fender well. If this is totally fuel, you may not have a code.
 
  #3  
Old 10-03-09, 12:26 PM
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the noid lite mentioned above is a good place to start.
it will tell you if the injectors are being pulsed
if they are 'not' you will need do do more digging to find out why.
any chance-it is just out fof fuel-?
(i had a 88 model-would quit-below 1/4 tank)
 
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Old 10-03-09, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by newtofta View Post
(i had a 88 model-would quit-below 1/4 tank)

Mine started doing that only after a new fuel pump was put in. ???
 
  #5  
Old 10-03-09, 01:12 PM
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Mileage is 147K
Gas tank is full.
Remember fuel is at the Schroder valve in the fuel rail with at least with some pressure.

I'm going to be unable to mess with it now for a few days till I get "work" out of the way.
Meanwhile I'll research noid thing.
(didn't that have something to do with delivered pizza?)
 
  #6  
Old 10-03-09, 01:19 PM
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Not trying to be picky...but its a "Schrader" valve..not Schroder. I think Schroder was the piano playin kid in the Peanuts strips....lol
 
  #7  
Old 10-03-09, 01:51 PM
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Ok, "Schrader" valve...
I used to play piano, & I like to eat peanuts but that's no excuse. Ha!

About noid lights:

I see that there are several types that kits have for different car models (naturally)

One kit supplies these:
GM TBI, Bosch PFI, Ford TBI, GM PFI, Geo TBI and GM SCPI.

Is that Ford TBI the only Ford type there is, or does it get more complicated?
Thanks
 
  #8  
Old 10-03-09, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by valsound View Post
Mileage is 147K
Gas tank is full.
Remember fuel is at the Schroder valve in the fuel rail with at least with some pressure.

I'm going to be unable to mess with it now for a few days till I get "work" out of the way.
Meanwhile I'll research noid thing.
(didn't that have something to do with delivered pizza?)
can you get a hold of a fuel pressure guage?
just because there is fuel at the test port,may not be enough pressure.
 
  #9  
Old 10-03-09, 06:34 PM
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You can make a Great "noid" light by straightening out the contacts of a 194 light bulb & pushing the little contacts into the injector connector... Roger
 
  #10  
Old 10-03-09, 06:48 PM
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Regarding the injection types, you would have TBI and Multi-Port. The latter is often sequential port.

A 2.9 in an'87 is Sequential port, I believe - so I would think that one would be as well.

If you had a sudden shutoff, I would think in terms of ignition, relay, or ECM with no injector pulses. If you had a loss of power, then dead = fuel system, pump pressure, regulator - something along those lines. A lot of this is narrowed down if you have the spark at the plug wires with timing correct.
 
  #11  
Old 10-05-09, 08:37 AM
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Ok,
I had a little time to mess with the Ranger this am & walked out to where it was.
I was going to see if I could find the injector connector in order to try the noid light (before I went to buy a set)

Question #1 Since it's hard to see under the intake manifold, do the connectors just pull off, or are there locking clips like other Ford connectors that have to be pried a little to loosen the connector?

Now, just to see if Murphy would show up, I got in the truck & tried to start it up. It started up just fine.... wouldn't you know it. I drove it back to the barn & let it idle a while.

While idling, I thought I would do a little wiggling to see if any gremlins would show up. (sinced the previous owner mentioned relays) I started there. Under the plastic cover next to the battery are several square relays, several of which are flopping around & off their slip mounts on the fender wall. I thought I would try mounting them so I picked up one & the grey section pulled right off exposing the contact points & small coil. The truck was still running, & I noted the relay was closed. Curious, I thought I would turn off the truck & see what the relay would look like. When truck off the points are open.

However, now the truck would not start. ( crank no start just as before)

I tried gently closing the relay contact, & can hear something running. So...
Question #2 What do you think that relay is for?

Finally, the guy I bought the truck from gave me a box of parts. (maybe that should of warned me. Ha)
Included is a computer with junkyard paint that says 88 Bronco 2.9 AC 5 speed. He said that one would also operate in my Ranger if I ever needed it.

Final Question Was he right? I found where it installs under the passanger side plastic moulding next to the passenger's foot.
I thought I could take the spare to a parts store & maybe get it tested first, then swap it in.

Thanks for reading, I know it's a "book"
 
  #12  
Old 10-05-09, 12:44 PM
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do you have the owners manual? i has a section with fuses & relays.
the injector plugs -i think' have a wire retainer that you squeeze toward the injector
the processor should work- both for a manual trans
parts store can 'not' test it.
possible get a small-haynes type repair nanual
 
  #13  
Old 10-05-09, 12:51 PM
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Came back to the Ranger this afternoon.
Once again it started up perfectly.
At this point, I think I can safely rule out a skipped timing chain yes?

Revisiting the relays.
Since the plastic cover was off (I know this is outside normal troubleshooting) I was curious as to what would happen if I opened the points.
With the truck running, I opened the points cutting off juice to whatever it operates.
It took about 5-10 seconds then the truck died.
I was able to restart the truck right away.
If the truck is off & the ignition switch is on, the relay stays open. It only closes after the truck starts.
Right now I'm guessing this relay is not the cause of my problem, but rather is controlled by what is causing the problem.
More & more I am thinking the main computer?
 
  #14  
Old 10-05-09, 01:03 PM
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newtofta,
Nope no owners manual.
I do have a chilton, which has a fuse block section, but so far I can't find any relays.
 
  #15  
Old 10-05-09, 02:26 PM
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there are 2 fuse blocks-1 under the dash-the other-under the hood( called the power distribution box).
some of the relays are inter changeable-if they have the same spade pin configuration.
if you can get them out with out pulling the cover off-like the 1st one you tried.
is the cover on the dist box?
some times it has description of the relays on the under side.
 
  #16  
Old 10-06-09, 06:38 PM
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I swaped out the computer today (put the 88 Bronco computer in my 86 Ranger 2.9 from the "parts box the original owner gave me)
Started right up So far so good.
Only difference I noticed was the idle seemed a bit high. Not a huge amount, just enough that i kept waiting for it to drop back down but it never did.
Now I'll just wait & see if the intermittant problem shows up or is gone.
Oh, I took some silicone & glued that cap back on the relay.
 
  #17  
Old 10-06-09, 07:07 PM
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The relay could be for the fuel pump - if it closed with the ignition turned off then back on. It should close just briefly ( 2 seconds for the pump to pressurize the rail. Then it would open until the engine starts, then it would close to run the pump.

The ECM is the control for that relay.
 
  #18  
Old 10-06-09, 07:07 PM
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get a spray can of carb-cleaner & an 'old'(lol)tooth brush.
tahe the 3-4" tube off the intake-throttle body.probaly remove the protective cover of the throttle cable.
eng.off.-manualy open the throttle plate-spray-&-scrub the plate & opening to remove all the crud/wipe if necessary.
dissconnect battery for 1 min-turn head lamps on-off while batt cable is off.
reconnect batt.-start eng-find 'iac'-silver-1-1/2" dia-5"long,
un plug connector-eng should idle-slower than needed.
''if' needed-adjust the throttle plate stop screw to get an idle speed-600-rpm or so-with iac un pluged-plug in iac -pcm should control idle speed.
 
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