96 Eclipse eng. codes

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  #1  
Old 01-08-10, 03:05 PM
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96 Eclipse eng. codes

I have the Haynes repair manual and it don't list code #12 or 55. Online I found codes that don't match the book. Online code 12,airflow sensor code 21 coolant temp sender, code 31 Knock sensor and code 55 IAC valve. The manual say's code 21, o2 sensor circut code 31, Evap sys fault. I am thinking of buying a scan tool. Also could the amplifier or stereo equipment be drawing too much power and causing power loss to ecm? The stero has been in over a year. The check eng. light came on a few days ago. I cleaned the batt terminals,cleared the codes and the light came back on after about 60 or so miles. Thanks for any help.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-08-10, 03:18 PM
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Hmmm, just discovered something I didn't know, that you can pull codes without a reader on '95-'98 Eclipses.

This is my source for code stuff:

Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

They don't show a 12 or a 55 either; 21 looks like O2 sensor stuff and 31 Evap system.

For non-OBD-II, 21 is coolant temp sensor and 31 is knock sensor, so it's an OBDI/OBDII thing.

I've never heard of a radio/amp causing a drain that would affect the ECM.
 
  #3  
Old 01-08-10, 03:36 PM
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Thanks Tow Guy for the link and quick reply. That was the site I went to. Also there was a code for Alt. over charging. Volt meter read just under 15v about 14.8 thats why I cleaned the batt. term. that code did not come back.[I think it was # 46]
 
  #4  
Old 01-08-10, 05:47 PM
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The first thing to check with electrical problems is always the electrical power. And you know how to use a multimeter, so good! Here is the power check...

Check the battery voltage with a multimeter.

The battery should read 12 something volts with just the ignition on (not started).

Then start it and it should then read 13/14 volts at the battery. This is the alternator kicking in and charging the battery.

Then measure the voltage inside the vehicle as well. Check from the center of the cigarette lighter to ground and you should get about the same voltage as at the battery. Check with just the ignition on and also with the vehicle running like above.


...Then yes a stereo not properly installed could cause problems. Or anything else electrical which has been "installed" for that matter.

The problem can be with too small of a wire used, a poor or dirty electrical connection, too large of a fuse installed for the wire used and tapped into that circuit, etc.

What happens is the proper amount of electricity does not get through, then the voltage "drops". If the voltage is dropping to something like an engine computer, then you can have all sorts of weird problems when it gets below about 10 volts.

So basically you would want to measure the voltage at various points and be sure everything is getting about the same voltage as at the battery. Especially the engine computer.

There can be loose or dirty main electrical connections (big wires associated with battery, alternator, main fuse block).

One way to test for poor main electrical connections is with a voltage drop test...
How To Perform A Voltage Drop Test - Help With Automotive Circuit Diagnosis

Then another problem with engine computer check engine codes is there may be "old codes" still in the computer from the past. These should be cleared out each time the problem has been fixed. So are those old codes or all new codes?

Then next is what do you do if you read a code with a code reader? Well you pretty much need a factory service manual to troubleshoot each code. You can order that from your dealer.

And along with the factory service manual, you should get the electrical diagrams manual. With this you can look at the wiring for the various sensors (that have check engine codes associated with them) to see if there is something in common with all of them.

Perhaps they all use the same ground connection? Maybe this ground is loose and dirty - not providing enough of a ground for them to function properly?

And finding that ground would require the factory electrical diagrams manual. This would show you exactly where that ground is located. Etc.

You can also follow the troubleshooting directions for one specific sensor. Then find the problem for that and this might also be the same problem for the other sensors. Maybe a loose ground. Maybe a loose main engine ground. Whatever.

And these factory manuals would have the pin outs of the engine computer connector(s) and would show you which was ground (-) and which was +12 (to test for proper voltage).

And never jamb the multimeter test leads into an electrical connector. This could deform the terminals and then cause more problems due to the terminals no longer being able to have a tight connection.
 
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Old 01-08-10, 07:50 PM
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Thanks Bill for all the great info. As I was reading your reply a ping went off in my head. A month or two ago my son had to have those high output blue headlights. First place to check Thanks.
 
  #6  
Old 01-09-10, 08:15 PM
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FYI. I think you'll find that those codes are similar to the old Chrysler codes at that time, as it was part of Chrysler I believe.
Code 12 is that battery has been disconnected or lost voltage (dead) within the last while (50 starts or something) and code 55 means end of message. Check your codes against the Chrysler OBD1 codes, and you'll probably have better success of troubleshooting your problem.
Here's a link. 1980s Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge computer fault codes

I know link says 80's but it's 80's and 90's
 
  #7  
Old 01-10-10, 11:24 AM
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Thanks for that info Mike. I haven't looked at it in the last couple of days. Its in the 20's. It should warm up a bit this week. Another thought I had we had a new cat and half an engine pipe welded in. The heat from welding could have burnt the 02 sensor. I'm doing more thinking then testing because of the cold Ha Ha . Thanks again for all of the replies.
 
  #8  
Old 01-10-10, 11:35 AM
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Closely examine the wiring in the area of the welding.

And when laying on your back looking up at wiring, you can't see the upper side of the wiring. Feel it with your hand. Also use a flashlight and mirror so you can see the other side of the wiring.

You would want to look for missing insulation on wiring which could be touching a metal part and grounding out.

And if it is cold outside, I would stay inside and just "think about it" as well!
 
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Old 01-10-10, 12:43 PM
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I went outside and put the car half on the curb craweld under and found a braided wire w/ a small female connector hanging. Being its braided I assume its a ground. this is behind the cat at the secondary o2 sensor. The cable at the 02 seems to be intact. Where the braided wire should be conn. I cant see. Is there a ground on the exaust sys?
 
  #10  
Old 01-10-10, 02:27 PM
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Basically all you can do is examine everything within reach of that wire. (Which I think you have already done.)

Also people don't repair things like they should. There are heated oxygen sensors (more wires), non-heated (fewer wires), and replacement oxygen sensors where you use crimp connectors to install them.

A non-heated oxygen sensor is less expensive.

It is possible someone replaced the oxygen sensor with something other than factory spec. and left one of the wires used for the factory sensor dangling.???

A cheap way to find what the wire goes to is to go to a wrecking yard, find the same or similar vehicle, then look under the vehicle to see where that wire goes to.

Actually that would probably be the best. Some of the drawings in the factory service manuals don't show where everything goes. And they can be 2000 pages long. And they are organized by system, not location and what is there. So the picture of that wire would be in the section for what it goes to! And we don't know what it goes to!!!!
 
  #11  
Old 01-14-10, 02:28 PM
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Hello all: I did a little checking today. The book says to check for continuity on the 02 sensor heating element heater wires. and then check for pulses on the other two wires but there is no scamatic to tell what wire is what. I got continuity on two wires but who know's. I also checked for a good eng ground which there is. Another thing I found was a stuck/broken clutch switch. [thats for starting like nuetral start sw. right] I'm Thinking of changing the o2 sensor being the car just hit 80,000 miles. We bought it with around 60,000.
 
  #12  
Old 01-15-10, 07:30 AM
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*Which* book are you using?
 
  #13  
Old 01-15-10, 12:15 PM
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Haynes Eclipse and talon 95'/2001 repair manual. It has 30 or so wiring diagram's. some sensors on them but not all. Well I changed the 02 sensor hoping the light would go out by itself. It did not so I diconnected the batt. again. I ran it around a bit but last time it took a couple of days to come back on. I'll post back either way. Thanks for all the helpful info everyone.
 
  #14  
Old 01-15-10, 03:29 PM
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There are 3rd party vehicle repair books the size of a small town phone book which covers many different years and models. These are sold at auto parts stores.

Then there is a "factory service manual set" which can be 4 books each the size of a large city phone book, 2000 pages total, and this only covers one year and model vehicle. You order these from the dealer. The set of books costs around $150.00. And it has all wiring diagrams and all service information. This is the information they use at the dealer to repair vehicles. (Also what I use.) BIG difference!
 
  #15  
Old 01-15-10, 09:13 PM
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Yes bill you are correct about the book I have only gives you a typical senario to whats wrong. I've seen things in the book that dont apply to this car. Wrong placement of parts and relays ect. The old saying Two heads are better then one. This site gives me a lot of good advice.
 
  #16  
Old 01-16-10, 08:32 AM
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Actually for my car and truck, I have both the factory service manuals sets and the 3rd party auto parts store books.

As you said, two heads are better than one! Sometimes looking at the same thing in both sets of books helps to understand it better.
 
  #17  
Old 02-01-10, 09:27 AM
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Hello everyone: It's been about three weeks and 400 miles since I changed the 02 sensor. The light came back on code 21,upstream ox sensor signal circut. Code 31,Evap sys. fault. Back to the drawing board. The vacume hose on top of the throttle body has a 90 deg.elbow and is two diff. size's on each end. It looks old and has surface crackes in it. I guess I'll see if the dealer has that hose.
 
  #18  
Old 02-22-10, 06:56 PM
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Update: We have'nt been using the car much lately. I was waiting for warmer weather to work on it. The temps have been above freezing and the Check eng. light went out. a few days ago. Maybe the car wants a vacation in the sun. HaHa.
 
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