Fuel pump replacement

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  #1  
Old 02-19-10, 03:17 PM
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Fuel pump replacement

I have a 91 chev lumina euro with a 3.1 do I have to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump?
 
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Old 02-19-10, 07:36 PM
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Yes... Sorry , its made in the USofA & they think you need to remove fuel tanks to replace the pumps... (the Japs put an axcess hole in the floor & the pumps outlast the cars... LOL) Just take your time & be careful & it won't be a big job... Roger
 
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Old 02-19-10, 11:42 PM
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yes, you may have to drop the tank to gain access to your fuel pump. some cars like the galant got enough room but in your case, yeah you have to..Beer 4U2
 
  #4  
Old 02-20-10, 12:50 AM
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1. Before servicing the fuel pump the fuel system pressure must be relieved, see MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Raise the car on a hoist.
4. Remove the fuel tank, see FUEL TANK AND FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT .
5. Remove the fuel tank sending unit and pump assembly by turning the cam lock ring counterclockwise. Lift assembly from the fuel tank.
6. Pull the fuel pump up into the attaching hose while pulling outward away from the bottom support. Take care to prevent damage to the rubber insulator and strainer during removal. After the pump assembly is clear of the bottom support, pull the pump assembly out of the rubber connector for removal.

NOTE: Inspect the fuel pump attaching hose for any signs of deterioration. Also check the rubber sound insulator at the bottom of the pump. Replace damaged or deteriorated parts.

INSTALLATION

1. Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose.
2. Position the fuel tank sending unit and pump assembly into the fuel tank. Use a new "O" ring seal. NOTE: Care should be taken not to fold over or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit as this will restrict the flow of fuel. Also, verify that the strainer does not block the full travel of the float arm.
3. Install cam lock over the assembly and lock by turning clockwise.
4. Reinstall fuel tank.

FUEL TANK REMOVAL:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure, see MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove all fuel from the fuel tank, see MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/DRAINING FUEL TANK.
5. Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose assembly at the fuel tank.
6. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe at the fuel filter inlet and move aside.
7. Disconnect the fuel return pipe assembly from the fuel return pipe and move aside.
8. Disconnect vapor hose from the connection (at the front of the tank).
9. Disconnect the rubber exhaust pipe hangers to allow the exhaust system to drop slightly.
10. Remove the exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and heat shield.
11. Support the fuel tank and disconnect the front fuel tank retaining strap bolts. CAUTION: Do not bend the fuel tank straps as this may damage the straps.
12. Lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel sender harness retaining clips.
13. Disconnect the fuel tank vent hose from the sender.
14. Disconnect the vapor purge hose from the vapor tubing.
15. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
16. Remove the fuel tank sender unit from the tank using tool J 24187 or equivalent.
Good Luck
 
  #5  
Old 02-20-10, 03:27 PM
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Dude, this is a DIY website. Most of us don't have two post lifts in our garages and a lot of people aren't going to have a clue what J24187 tool is.
 

Last edited by the_tow_guy; 02-23-10 at 04:20 AM. Reason: Not necessary to quote entire previous post.
  #6  
Old 02-20-10, 03:41 PM
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Some DIYers are serious about doing it them selves and some are just casuals that want to save a buck and spend the extra time to possibly do it wrong.

I would imagine a Google or a question would tell you what and equivalent to the J 24187 is.

There is nothing better than good instructions for someone that might have to guess wtthout them. - The other choice is to use a bigger hammer.
 
  #7  
Old 02-20-10, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by hopkinsr2 View Post
Yes... Sorry , its made in the USofA & they think you need to remove fuel tanks to replace the pumps... (the Japs put an axcess hole in the floor & the pumps outlast the cars... LOL)
Taurus's and Lincolns have the access cover. One of my jobs at work involves making the connections to the pump right before the back seat gets put in.
Mike what diagnostics tests have you done to pinpoint the fuel pump as the part to R&R? If you gotta do it get a hand sump and container and get the tank near empty. Pulling a tank down is one thing. Putting it back up while making hose and loom connections and aligning it is another! You don't want it to be heavy.

a lot of people aren't going to have a clue what J24187 tool is.
Originally Posted by Maniac Mechanic View Post
16. Remove the fuel tank sender unit from the tank using tool J 24187 or equivalent.
Sounds like a tool you would use to remove the fuel tank sending unit from the tank.

A J24187 would be a Chevy special service tool used to unscrew the big plastic lock ring that secures the top of the fuel pump. The equivelent is a real big @.$ flat tip screw driver and a hammer. If the ring has verticle flanges you can gingerly tap sidelong on the the flanges to unscrew it. The flanges break easy so tapping against many flanges in turn until it breaks loose is a good idea.
 
  #8  
Old 02-21-10, 09:41 AM
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91' Lumina.... lived that nightmare...LOL. Gottta love those rear disk brakes, I hope yours were better than mine. The rear brakes were ultimately the reason that I got rid of mine.
 
  #9  
Old 02-22-10, 05:48 PM
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We talking about the dual piston rear disc brakes?
Can't remember what year my Lumina was.
 
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