Oil change question

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  #1  
Old 02-27-10, 11:15 AM
scf2927's Avatar
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Oil change question

I recently purchased a 1-owner 11 year old BMW 328i for my college-bound daughter. The previous owner had all scheduled maintenance performed only by BMW dealers. He only used OEM oil filters and Amsoil 5W40 European motor oil. Even doing the oil changes myself, it will cost around $100 for oil and filter if I continue with his 'tradition'. Would it, in any way, be bad for the car to go with aftermarket filter and Pennzoil oil?
 
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Old 02-27-10, 11:48 AM
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Well...its out of warranty by just a bit...lol.

A premium aftermarket filter should be fine...though I'm not familiar with the oil...I'd stay with a synth if thats what it is. You can get Amsoil here as well...and since its probably got a longer change cycle..you will be saving there.

I won't comment on you buying a Beemer for yer daughter...even if it is 11 y/o....lol.

Does that thing even have airbags? My memory only goes back about 8 yrs max....
 
  #3  
Old 02-27-10, 12:06 PM
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I use Walmart "high mileage" oil and Walmart oil filters in my car and truck and they run just fine.
 
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Old 02-27-10, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by scf2927 View Post
I recently purchased a 1-owner 11 year old BMW 328i for my college-bound daughter. The previous owner had all scheduled maintenance performed only by BMW dealers. He only used OEM oil filters and Amsoil 5W40 European motor oil. Even doing the oil changes myself, it will cost around $100 for oil and filter if I continue with his 'tradition'. Would it, in any way, be bad for the car to go with aftermarket filter and Pennzoil oil?
No personal experience with Amsoil. I have a '03 Chevy Malibu that I run Mobil 1 synthetic in only. I did notice the engine not running as hot. I've read some anecdotal posts where people had oil leaks show up after they switched from conventional to synthetic. As the seals are used to synthetic for the past however many years, I don't know what would happened by switching back.

If you really want to learn more than you ever wanted to now about oil, synthetic and otherwise, browse the forums at "bobistheoilguy dot com". I'm not kidding. At the time of this writing, there's 130 pages in a forum section devoted to European and Import motor oils.
 
  #5  
Old 02-28-10, 06:09 PM
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It's got bags. On the Beemer forums most recommend Amsoil, but those guys are a little over-the-top when it comes to their precious Beemers.
 
  #6  
Old 02-28-10, 06:45 PM
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I have a BMW Z3---2001 with 70K. The owners manual says to use synthetic and I do. I do not use OEM filters but purchase all my filters online.
I don't know that one brand of synthetic is any better then another but my owners manual recommends Castrol.
I, personally, stay with the brand that was previously used and do not mix different brands of oil.
 
  #7  
Old 02-28-10, 06:53 PM
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I buy my Mobil 1 at Walmart in 1 gallon plastic containers. My mechanic puts it in and avoids having to have it on hand and mark it up. He does have the filters for my Jimmy in stock.

My last two cars always had Mobil 1 from day 1. My '95 Corvette was sold with 85,000 miles on it and my '99 Jimmy currently has about 140,000 miles on it. Oil and filter were changed at 7000 miles. The oil has not dropped below the full mark on either one and everything in the engines was perfect.

I would not do it myself since I pay my mechanic $10 labor to change and dispose, lube and give the car a routine check-out to see what I cannot see (especially in the winter). He is a little slow, but if he says it will be done, it will even if he has to work until 10:00 PM if other regular customers have a more severe problem. He also delivers, but I have to give him a 4 block ride back to the shop.

Dick
 
  #8  
Old 02-28-10, 07:48 PM
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Aftermarket Oil filters

I always thought that since I changed my oil and filters at 3000 mile intervals, that using aftermarket oil and filters was acceptable. I won't argue with anyone about using a good brand name oil with recommended change intervals, but I will not use anything but an OEM filter in my own cars from now on. The internals on an aftermarket are not the same (cut them both apart and see). Since most filters tell you to tighten one full turn after the gasket contacts the base, 3000 miles later that filter might as well be welded to that base, and you can very easily twist an aftermarket filter into shreds trying to get it off in a tight place, even with the right tool. I don't have that happen with the Mopar Filters I buy from the dealer, and they are not that much more expensive. Well worth it to me.
 
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