2004 PT Cruiser, engine noise


Old 03-01-10, 09:49 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3
2004 PT Cruiser, engine noise

Sounds like lifters or possibly a piston type noise. It's a 2.4 liter DOC non turbo and I haven't worked on enough of these engines to know if this is a normal engine noise or not. Does anybody know if these little four cylinders are that noisy or not?
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Old 03-01-10, 10:56 PM
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 312
Don't know for sure but does this sound right?

NUMBER: 09-007-04

GROUP: Engine

DATE: March 2, 2004
Irregular Engine Snapping Sound

This bulletin involves chamfering the bore radius on cam bearing caps through L5 and R2 through R5.


2001 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan

2002 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty

2002 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets)

2003 - 2004 (PL) Neon

2001 - 2004 (PT) PT Cruiser

2001 - 2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)

2001 - 2004 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

2003 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler

NOTE : This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 2.0L, 2.4L DOHC or 2.4L Turbo engine (sales code ECC, EDZ, ED1, EDV, ED2 or EDT).


The sound may be noticed when the engine is idling in park between idle rpm and 1400 rpm at normal operating temperature. The sound is on the upper end of the engine (cylinder head) towards the front of the engine or passenger side (right side). The sound is irregular, not periodic or harmonious. The frequency of the sound will increase with RPM. The sound is more of a higher pitch snapping noise not a low metallic knock.


If the vehicle operator describes the Symptom/Condition and the technician determines that the sound is from the upper end of the engine (cylinder head) towards the front of the engine or passenger side (right side), perform the Repair Procedure.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover (IE Rocker cover)

2. Remove L2 cam bearing cap (Fig. 1).

NOTE o not remove the # L1/R1 or L6 cam bearing caps, or loosen the fasteners.

NOTE : Only remove one cam bearing cap at a time.

3. Lightly chamfer the two bore radius edges with a small hand file, creating a 45°chamfer 1.0 to 1.5 mm in width along the edge of each bore radius (Fig. 2).

CAUTION :Be careful not to scratch bore surface of cam bearing cap. Chamfer both bore radius.

4. Clean part to remove any aluminum filings prior to reinstalling.

5. Reinstall L2 cam bearing cap by loosely assembling fasteners. Prior to and during the torquing of each fastener, twist the cam bearing cap by hand in a clockwise direction, as viewed from the top of the engine. Torque M6 fasteners to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.) while maintaining a clockwise twisting force on the cam bearing cap.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for cam bearing caps L3, L4, L5 R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6.
If so L1 and R1 are the large cap in the front of the engine L2 thru L6 are the caps closest to you R2 thru R6 are away from you numbered front to rear like it says don't remove the front cap or the last one closest to you
Good Luck
(due to picture locks from Chyr. I can't post diagrams but can email to you if needed just pm me and I'll kick them to ya
Old 03-04-10, 02:22 AM
automd's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 38
If the engine noise is just louder than normal it could be an exhaust leak. It could be something as simple as a bad exhaust manifold gasket or doughnut gasket. This would also tie in to the oxygen sensor fault.

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