2005 Chevy Astro alternator not charging

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  #1  
Old 03-31-10, 09:35 AM
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2005 Chevy Astro alternator not charging

The alternator stopped charging the other day so i went ahead and replaced it only to discover that the new alternator doesnt work either and after replacing that with another one i am convinced its not a problem with the alternator. can anyone help? I had an idea to run a wire from the alternator to a switch and then to the battery so i could toggle the on/off whenever i need to charge, if only i knew which point to come off of on the alternator.
 
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Old 03-31-10, 09:42 AM
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Lets' start with what led you to believe the alternator was not charging.
 
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Old 03-31-10, 09:47 AM
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was driving down the road, all the gauges went screwy for a second then the battery died. so i open up the fusebox to see if there is a problem there, i move the box and the thing became alive again for a second so i thought there was a short in the box so i pull the fuse box out of its box, check all the wires and all but no shorts or burnt spots so i put it back together and replaced the alternator
 
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Old 03-31-10, 09:55 AM
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I think you were on the right track; you'll need to do some more troubleshooting in that area with a meter. How old is the battery?
 
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Old 03-31-10, 10:01 AM
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idk, i had to trade my battery with a friends at work so i could get home that day.
 
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Old 03-31-10, 12:22 PM
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Check and see if you have 12 volts at the alt there is a fuseable link to it that may have popped also the bcm controls the alt charge on that one @ work right now will check back tonight to see what you found.Last the power dist box on those was known to fail as well.
 
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Old 03-31-10, 01:21 PM
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i do have 12v at the alternator so i dont think there is a fuseable link. bcm?
 
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Old 03-31-10, 05:07 PM
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The battery should not have suddenly died just after the gauges went screwy.

You should first have had a low voltage or amperage light come on, or check engine light, right from the get go of a discharge. And THEN you should have been able to drive for miles(off the battery voltage) before the battery pooped out (lesser if lights and blower on, though).

Weren't you curious if you were getting about 14.5 volts at the battery terminal or not, before you went out and replaced the alternator?

Are you now going to take one of the two alternators to a shop to have it bench tested?
 
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Old 03-31-10, 05:43 PM
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Just went 10 rounds with a 95 Taurus one of those I should not have taken into the shop today! LOL Body Control Module is what I was ref. to that controls the charging system along with the ECU they both "talk" to each other and decide how many times to cycle the sig a second (sends the sig to the alt so it will charge) along with about a dozen other things.Make sure the power dis box under the hood is OK first.(no burnt connections good contacts ect.ect.)
That sends pos and neg connections through out most of the vehicle.The symptoms do describe a low voltage situation does it run ok with the good batt in it?If so my thought is running toward the BCM this will store a code and may or may not throw a C.E.Light however since you have had to change batts this may get lost from memory as well. Your best bet in that case is to run in with a battery in it for a little while and have it scanned to see if anything shows up.
 
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Old 04-01-10, 07:41 AM
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idk about all the details im actually doing this for my father, who keeps making me go out to the van and we just stare at it for hours, and that is quite boring so i was hoping to get some help here. right now we have 12 v at the battery, 12v at the brown wire going to the alt, but we dont have 12 v at the screw/terminal on the side of the alt. my father is currently running a wire from the battery to that terminal in hopes to bypass the computer i think and he claims it charges when he does that.
 
  #11  
Old 04-01-10, 12:55 PM
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There is a fusible link in the screw term wire it popped thats where your problem lies. Running the new wire to there won't bypass comp control but will take the BCM being the problem out of the equation.
Good Luck
 
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Old 04-01-10, 01:24 PM
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me and my father looked for a fuseable link but did not find one
 
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Old 04-01-10, 10:14 PM
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Usual location is down at the starter if you run a new cable to it,it won't really matter just make sure you tape off the old connection.(Know I'm stating the obvious LOL)
 
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Old 04-02-10, 10:27 AM
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ah well we did run a wire it it appears to be workin for now, thanks for the advice
 
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Old 04-02-10, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Maniac Mechanic View Post
Usual location is down at the starter if you run a new cable to it,......
Usual location for WHAT?: The fusible link, or the location you make the (jumper)wire hook up?
 
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Old 04-02-10, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ender2272 View Post
ah well we did run a wire it it appears to be workin for now, thanks for the advice
Where did you run that wire?; from where to where?, and did you put a fusible link (like, 2 wire gauge sizes less) or an acutal fuse in line?

Asking questions so it is clear to anyone who might have to do the same, to get by.
 
  #17  
Old 04-02-10, 01:33 PM
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The fuseable link is located on the wire going to the screw term for the alt @ the connection on the starter where the batt connects to it.Sorry I wasn't explicate enough to all the readers out there.
 
  #18  
Old 04-03-10, 07:12 AM
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FYI - The fusible links I have seen is the *wire* itself! It looks just like a regular wire, however it is a "special wire" that will self destruct if too much amperage is used on that circuit.

These need to be replaced with the same part number wire so it will have fused protection!

Note that automobile circuits can be overloaded by do-it-yourself add-on electrical gizmos.
 
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