"VDC Off"+ "Slip" dummy lights - infinity G35

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  #1  
Old 04-01-10, 08:42 AM
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"VDC Off"+ "Slip" dummy lights - infinity G35

2008 Infinity G35 aprox 38k miles. Here's what happens. Brake light comes on, lately after driving a minute or two. Within 10 seconds the "VDC Off" light and "Slip" dummy lights come on. These stay on until the car is restarted, however, the brake light usually goes off, but sometimes stays on. Any ideas? Or is this require taking car to dealer?

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-02-10, 02:34 PM
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Sounds like a wheel speed sensor is going out/operating intermittently.The cars programing is shutting down the trac control and ABS as a result.
 
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Old 04-03-10, 07:24 AM
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Yes. The ABS system (and other systems) do not know if they are working ok or not until you start driving! (The wheels need to be turning, then they can check to see if all the inputs make sense or if something weird is going on.)

And with a 2008, that sounds like something best to take to an Infinity dealer. They would have all the latest electronic test equipment to connect and "see what is going on". (Lots of different computers involved.)
 
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Old 04-03-10, 07:40 AM
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Still under warranty, I will take to dealer, thanks!!
 
  #5  
Old 06-22-10, 11:26 PM
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Had all tires rebalanced and problem still persists - I did have a steering wheel vibration and wanted to rule out tires before going to dealer. Called dealer & they think I need brakes, and that's what's causing problem. The brake light IS the first light that goes on. Just turned 40k miles, does this sound about right for brake replacement on this model car? I know there are many factors, but drove car 60-70% highway. Also, any benefit to going to dealer for brakes? other than warranty issues? Could price vary that much?

Thanks.
 
  #6  
Old 06-23-10, 07:57 AM
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possible-vehicle is just low on brake fluid level.
system sees level as -not enough fluid to perform abs/traction control functions-so shuts system down.
 
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Old 06-23-10, 08:06 AM
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When a light like the brake light comes on with a newer vehicle, this is being turned on by a computer. And that computer will have a "diagnostic code" which will say exactly what is wrong.

You need to take it to the dealer to have that code read. And you can have them do only that. Just read the code and tell you what the code is.

Here is an example of Ford ABS trouble codes (not your car - just an example of these codes). As you can see there can be all sorts of different problems!
Ford C Chassis Diagnostic Fault Codes
 
  #8  
Old 06-23-10, 08:09 AM
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if the RED lite comes on 1st- it is probably low on fluid
 
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Old 06-23-10, 09:14 AM
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I have an appt. at the dealer tomorrow morning to check the warning lights and also the brakes. I just checked brake fluid and level (cold and after running for 2 minutes) is almost midway between low and full. I just have a feeling the dealer is going to want to replace the brakes no matter what (I rarely go to the dealer, only for oil changes when I don't change it myself) because the want to generate income - maybe that's just me being my usual skeptic.

Previous dealer experience with my previous car (2001 nissan maxima) was that I couldn't get out of the door without spending over $1k. any estimates on brakes, assuming rotors are turned and not replaced? $200-250 per set?
 
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Old 06-23-10, 09:38 AM
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Gosh, I've gotten my rotors turned for for about $30. That was for both fronts because my Maxima had a vibration when braking.

Your VDC/SLIP/Brake lights is from a faulty wheel/ABS sensor. Still nothing terribly expensive either. Probably less then $150.

If the dealer says they want to replace XXX and it will cost you billions, take it to another mechanic for a second opinion. If the pads are in good condition, just turning the rotors will solve your vibration problem.
 
  #11  
Old 06-23-10, 09:52 AM
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That is true. Some shops will do unnecessary repairs. Others are honest.

Some factory dealers will do it right and do it by the book. This means they will replace all worn parts per factory specifications and factory recommendations. And they have the proper parts on hand. Then this costs more than taking it to a 3rd party mechanic who might not do the maintenance exactly as it should be done and might not have all the parts on hand.

I suppose you could have them just give you a diagnosis of the problem(s) and give you a written estimate. Then get a second opinion if they say you need to replace the brakes. But be sure they give you the "diagnostic code(s)" from the computer.

You can also get a Factory Service Manual set of books (order from dealer). With newer vehicles there are 4 books to the set - 2000 pages total. This would have very detailed troubleshooting instructions for each specific diagnostic code. So you could look up code xxxx and it would give a description of the problem, then give troubleshooting instructions.

But you many times need to use a multimeter to test the electrical circuits so you can find the problem. Need to know about electrical testing pretty much.

And some new vehicle diagnostic code readers also will read ABS diagnostic codes. I've only seen these on the internet and not sold in the automotive stores. You would need to make sure it could read the codes in your specific year/model vehicle.

Diagnostic software to run on a PC is also available. But it needs to work with your specific vehicle. And you would need a cable to connect from your PC to the vehicle.

A happy medium might be to have the dealer read the codes for you, then get the factory manual set of books and fix it yourself if you know how...
 
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Old 06-23-10, 10:47 AM
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I will see what the dealer says about the code and if a sensor is bad. That is still under warranty (4 yr / 60k mile), so the only out of pocket would be the brakes. I will ask to see the pads if they need replacing, but if just the rotors need to be turned, I don't know if that's under warranty?? My first guess would be yes, because they shouldn't warp out causing vibration when braking.
 
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Old 06-23-10, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by daronson View Post
I just checked brake fluid and level (cold and after running for 2 minutes) is almost midway between low and full..
I have to agree with Newfta,, If the fluid is this low,, Why not just top it up & see if that fixes it first,,, I kinda have a feeling that is low enough to shut off the track & ABS controls as they require a lot of fluid for the pumps,, accumulators, & etc... Top it up first & try it,,, A can of brake fluid is only 6~7 bucks... Roger
 
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Old 06-24-10, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hopkinsr2 View Post
I have to agree with Newfta,, If the fluid is this low,, Why not just top it up & see if that fixes it first,
Newfta & hopkinsr2,

You guys can give yourselves a pat on the back!! I added a little brake fluid, not all the way to full, and headed off to the dealer (1 hr drive). Well, NO lights came on at all, so I think it solves the problem. Sitting at the dealer now, they are still checking the brakes - have a shudder which is supposedly part of a TSB for my car. They will prob. replace/resurface front rotors & change pads.
 
  #15  
Old 06-24-10, 10:01 AM
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Changing the front pads & turning rotors no charge as part of tsb. Replacing rear pads & turning rotors on rear for $300. This is their brake service charge. Mechanic showed me pads, looked low, said they were 3ml. and new ones are 11 or 12 ml. Sounds fair, I'm just glad the fronts will be done at N/C. Thanks everyone.

Oh, when I told the service advisor I added brake fluid, he said I shouldn't have done that, reason fluid is low is b/c brake pads are worn. I think he was just upset I solved the problem before he could empty my wallet!!
 
  #16  
Old 06-24-10, 10:11 AM
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Well, what he said IS true (which I never knew before reading it here). Brakes are a sealed system. A good sign that you probably need service is when level drops from normal to low. Either you prob have a leak or normal wear has caused it, either way, it's time for an inspection at the least.
 
  #17  
Old 06-24-10, 08:35 PM
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on-'most' vehicles.
if the 'red brake' lite comes on-it is almost always a low fluid concern-/- or a parking brake problem.
the yellow 'ABS' lite comes on shortly after.
(i have seen this concern 'countless times') & as allways-as 'service tech'-there is no charge -if the problem is 'just low fluid level'

IMO-most all jiffy lube type places-do not top off fliids!
(possibly-they do not know what to use/or where)
sorta-you get what you pay for!
 
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