Astro won't start hot


Old 04-01-10, 11:37 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: IL.
Posts: 13
Astro won't start hot

2005 Astro Van AWD 75,000

Just had complete tune up, oil change, air filter, fuel filter.

Starts no problem when engine is cold. However after running 20-30 minutes and letting it cool down for 10-15 minutes, I have a hard time restarting. IT turns good and strong but won't kick over. It will start after anywhere between 3- 15 tries.

Didn't have problem prior to tune up, However I got the tune up because the van would not start and check engine light had a mis fire code.

Any suggestions?

Thanks Jim
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Old 04-01-10, 05:55 PM
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 1,396
I've read posts on a chevy astro forum that indicated aftermarket rotors and distributors don't do well on these vans. They say use only OEM parts and that usually solves the problem. Don't know if it's true or not, just what I read. Good luck.
Old 04-01-10, 06:40 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,698
any fuel smell when attempting to start?
yes some after market rotors can give problems, but if it runs when cold and not hot that is less likely, sounds more like a heat soak problem, could be a leaky fuel injector causing flooding until the fuel evaporates, did it get plug wires as well as rotor and cap on the tune up? what kind of pressure does the fuel pump output on setting and does the pump immediately flow with key on.

Murphy was an optimist
Old 04-02-10, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
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Did you get the tune-up in order to fix that problem? Or did this start after the tune-up? In either case, didn't you tell your mechanic that it is doing it(again?)?

It must be terrible being a mechanic today, with these complex cars, if you can't find a problem right away. If the problem can't be found in halfway short order, they must start feeling guilty or feel they have to eat some of the labor, since the bill might start to get too high. It was bad enough with the plain old engines, years ago, sometimes.
Old 04-02-10, 02:15 PM
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 312
With speedwrench on this one sounds like an injector leaking down or the fuel pressure regulator leaking by when not running(takes time to repress. the system)A fairly easy repair to verifiy hook a pressure gauge to the shrader valve (must go to at least 100 psi) and run the van shut it down and watch the gauge it shouldn't drop below 30 psi in about 10 min.If it does check plugs for being wet first and that would be your problem injector. If all are dry the the regulator is the most likely target.Which cyl. did you have the misfire on or was it a P0300 code?0301 thru 0306 will tell you which one.
Good Luck
Old 04-03-10, 07:16 AM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,312
Check the basics, Fuel, Spark, Air.

Fuel: While someone is turning the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body (just a light spray - two seconds). If you get a response, then this is a fuel problem.

Spark: Remove a spark plug and place the side screw portion against a piece of body metal or engine metal (grounded to battery negative/ground). Then watch as someone turns the key to start. See if there is spark. Advanced spark testing is to use a spark testing tool which would typically have a gap of .25 inch. You should see a crisp blue spark. This is a larger gap than a spark plug and tests that the coil is producing a high enough voltage. (Good spark as opposed to weak spark.)

Air: Slightly press on the accelerator while trying to start. Normally the throttle is completely closed and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve adjusts to admit air into the engine. By pressing slightly on the accelerator, you are bypassing the IAC valve and allowing air to enter the engine.

Combination test: While someone slightly presses on the accelerator and turns the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body.
Old 04-03-10, 10:41 AM
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,312
Also note that electronic things have wiring and connections inside of them.

Heat causes expansion. Cold contraction.

There can be a break in an electrical connection inside an electronic component, then when it heats up, it physically expands and the electrical connection inside breaks! But when it cools down, it physically contracts and the electrical connection comes together again and makes contact! (Works again.)

So if say it is not getting spark, look for electronic components related to spark which would get hot from the engine. Or would get hot from the heater going inside the car. (Try not turning on the heater inside the car if you have had that going.)

An old electronic troubleshooting trick is to let something cool down. Verify that it is working. Then aim a heat gun at the part to heat it up, then see if this causes it to fail.

As to random misfires, lots at following link. Also check the camshaft position sensor if you have that. A shop would need to test it with an oscilloscope.
Random-Misfire Page
Old 04-04-10, 07:03 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: IL.
Posts: 13
Must be a intermittent thing. I have not had any problems since. I had a complete tune up plugs, wires , cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil and air filters. I will keep some starting fluid in van when it does a happen again.

Thanks for all your input.


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