92 buick regal - error code 41
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92 buick regal - error code 41
I have a '92 Buick Regal - 3800. Recently my check engine light has started to go on and off. Also my car has picked up an occasional hesitation (runs fine most of the time, but hesitates a little and then comes out of it). I checked the codes and came up with error code 41 (which is the cam sensor signal). I took the car to the shop and they replaced the cam sensor, timing chain, magnet….took the car out and the same thing. I ran the car for awhile and took it back to the shop and they did a few more things and car runs the same. This has been ongoing for a couple years. Now my car died out and want run. I’m tired of spending money at the shop and not getting results. Any ideas what it might be…ICM, Coil Packs, ECM, EGR Valve???? Any assistance would be appreciated.
Additional information. The spark plugs have spark when trying to start. Also, the fuel pump is working, but I'm not getting fuel to the motor. After the car sits for an extended period of time and I try to start it, it does start for a split second and then dies and won't restart at all. If I leave it sit for awhile the same thing. Something else to note. When the car was in running condition, the colder outside the better the car ran (I'm talking like below 20 degrees), the warmer the air temp the more it picked up a hesitation. Hope this information helps.
Additional information. The spark plugs have spark when trying to start. Also, the fuel pump is working, but I'm not getting fuel to the motor. After the car sits for an extended period of time and I try to start it, it does start for a split second and then dies and won't restart at all. If I leave it sit for awhile the same thing. Something else to note. When the car was in running condition, the colder outside the better the car ran (I'm talking like below 20 degrees), the warmer the air temp the more it picked up a hesitation. Hope this information helps.
Last edited by J_Duchscher; 04-06-10 at 07:42 PM.
#2
check for a ground wire that is corroded or almost broken, heat increases Resistance, in some cases heat can cause wires to expand or other metals to expand and break the ground path, you say the fuel pump runs but no fuel to motor, has the pressure been checked at the engine? have you installed a new fuel filter? if the cam sensor shows bad signal, but the sensor has been changed along with the other stuff you mentioned, has anyone done a wiggle test of the cam sensor wiring? last has anyone tested the temp sensor for the ecm?
bty, should have posted in the automotive forum not outdoor power/small engine
murphy was an optimist
bty, should have posted in the automotive forum not outdoor power/small engine
murphy was an optimist
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Thanks for the feeback. Yeah I posted two things and mixed them up for which forum they should have been under. But I'm not sure if I can somehow move them around at this point.
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First I would confirm *exactly* what code 41 means for your specific vehicle (double check). And let us know. The following codes can be different depending on the specific engine, VIN number, or whatever.
Please copy here exactly what it says 41 means...
Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
Then does that CAM sensor plug into an electronic module in or around the distributor? If yes, then that electronic module would be between the CAM sensor and the engine computer - a source for a faulty connection/signal. (As well as the connectors and wiring between that electronic module and the engine computer.) Might try replacing that module.
(Called Electronic Spark Control Module?)
For not starting, when this happens, do the following to determine the source of the problem...
Note: If you are having fuel AND spark problems, this could be REAL fun to fix!
Check the basics, Fuel, Spark, Air.
Fuel: While someone is turning the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body (just a light spray - two seconds). If you get a response, then this is a fuel problem.
Spark: Remove a spark plug and place the side screw portion against a piece of body metal or engine metal (grounded to battery negative/ground). Then watch as someone turns the key to start. See if there is spark. Advanced spark testing is to use a spark testing tool which would typically have a gap of .25 inch. You should see a crisp blue spark. This is a larger gap than a spark plug and tests that the coil is producing a high enough voltage. (Good spark as opposed to weak spark.)
Air: Slightly press on the accelerator while trying to start. Normally the throttle is completely closed and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve adjusts to admit air into the engine. By pressing slightly on the accelerator, you are bypassing the IAC valve and allowing air to enter the engine.
Combination test: While someone slightly presses on the accelerator and turns the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body.
Please copy here exactly what it says 41 means...
Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
Then does that CAM sensor plug into an electronic module in or around the distributor? If yes, then that electronic module would be between the CAM sensor and the engine computer - a source for a faulty connection/signal. (As well as the connectors and wiring between that electronic module and the engine computer.) Might try replacing that module.
(Called Electronic Spark Control Module?)
For not starting, when this happens, do the following to determine the source of the problem...
Note: If you are having fuel AND spark problems, this could be REAL fun to fix!

Check the basics, Fuel, Spark, Air.
Fuel: While someone is turning the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body (just a light spray - two seconds). If you get a response, then this is a fuel problem.
Spark: Remove a spark plug and place the side screw portion against a piece of body metal or engine metal (grounded to battery negative/ground). Then watch as someone turns the key to start. See if there is spark. Advanced spark testing is to use a spark testing tool which would typically have a gap of .25 inch. You should see a crisp blue spark. This is a larger gap than a spark plug and tests that the coil is producing a high enough voltage. (Good spark as opposed to weak spark.)
Air: Slightly press on the accelerator while trying to start. Normally the throttle is completely closed and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve adjusts to admit air into the engine. By pressing slightly on the accelerator, you are bypassing the IAC valve and allowing air to enter the engine.
Combination test: While someone slightly presses on the accelerator and turns the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body.
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99 times out 100, code 41 (cam sensor). You'll remove the sensor and look inside at the cam gear.......There SHOULD be a little magnet spinning around on the cam gear that the sensor reads.........many times the magnet falls off
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Not unusual for a fuel pump to do it's job when cold, but lose pressure when it gets heated up from combination of running, and hot outside temperatures. See if you can get a fuel pressure gauge on that before you throw more parts at it, just to be sure, and try to do it when cold as well as hot. Think of when pump will run hottest, such as low level in tank, and hot pavement under tank.