01 Mitsubishi water pump

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  #1  
Old 04-21-10, 09:48 AM
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01 Mitsubishi water pump

My 01 Mitsubishi Galant with 6 cyl engine has begun to run the fans now when I slow to 15mph and pull into parking lots.
It never used to run the fans unless I was sitting in traffic waiting for a slow long train. Or maybe if I had the AC on and going thru town with several stoplights.
The temp this morning is about 80 and I drove to the college. There the speed limit is 15 mph for about 1/8 mile then the parking lot. By the time I get to a parking spot the fans are running. If I let it stay idling (at about 600 rpm) the gauge moves rapidly to the danger zone. I have never let it get to the red area of the gauge. i usually increase the rpms to about 800 to 1000 rpm and within a minute it goes back to normal operating temp and the fans shut off.
My Haynes manual says the idle speed is set by the computer so there is no set screw I can adjust to raise the idle to see if that solves the problem.
If it needs a water pump then it is about 250 dollars for the pump and timing belts. The water pump is under the timing cover and is driven by one of the two timing belts. Logic says to replace these belts if replacing the water pump. But would I also need to replace the tensioners and adjusters as well? That would increase the parts price another $150 plus labor.
Or would it solve my problem if I somehow got the idle speed up?
There is no problem with the car when it is moving at above 15 mph. The gauge stays at normal. If I increase the rpms the car cools back down pretty quick so is the water pump the problem?
 
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  #2  
Old 04-21-10, 10:13 AM
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Its low on coolant. Fill it, let it get up to normal temp, and find the drip.
 
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Old 04-21-10, 05:47 PM
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I checked the level in the recovery bottle and it was 1/2 inch below the full. No where close to the low mark which is almost 2 1/2 inch from full. i filled it to the full and wil operate the car tomorrow to the college again. Getting dark quick here and the neighbor is burning a huge bonfire and smoking up the whole neighborhood. Hard to brethe and also have to avoid falling ash!!
If the house doesn't burn down tonight I will check for drips or runs tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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Old 04-21-10, 06:12 PM
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when cold open the radiator cap and see if there is fluid visible, lots of vehicles will not suck the coolant out of the radiator if there is any leak in the system because of a loss of vacum.

as to the waterpump, if it does need one yes change the timing belt and idlers, it is cheep insurance and cheeper than going back in and doing it later because you didn't the first time.

murphy was an optimist
 
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Old 04-21-10, 07:45 PM
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Here is what I experienced today when checking the issue.
I went to the college and the fan kicked on as soon as I hit the parking lot. The gauge was still at normal. 50 feet to parking place. I let the car idle at regular speed (about 600 rpm) The fan kept running for 15 minutes as the needle on the gauge kept rising. I would say it went up 1/2 inch from where it normally runs. It got to within a needles width of the red spot on the gauge. in those 15 min. 10 minutes later it was still there and the fan had not shut off. So after wasting 25 minutes of gas I finally reved the engine to about 800 rpm and in 30 to 45 seconds it cooled to normal and the fan stopped.
I was testing to see if it would cool down with the fan (actually there are 2 fans) and no extra idle speed and found that NO it did not and in fact it got hotter, but on the bright side it did not get into the red zone.
Problem is it was only about 78 degrees at the time. So what happens when it get hotter outside?
I will check the coolant level in the radiator before I start the car tomorrow. Then it is off to the college again. They have an asphalt parking lot so after I get there I may be able to see if there are any drips under the car. As you know that V-6 is really crammed in there so I am not sure I can see much from under the hood but I will try to look.
Just hate to spend $250 to $300 on parts and who knows how much for labor to replace something that might not be bad.
Is there a way to increase the idle speed short of replacing the computer or having it adjusted?
 
  #6  
Old 04-22-10, 04:15 PM
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Forget the Idle speed......Take that thought, wrinkle it up and throw it away.... In the long run, the added revs will only produce extra heat in an already "Crippled" system.

The fan Pulls fresh air thru the fins on the radiator....Hence "Cooling" the water flowing thru the veins that are surrounded by those fins.......Now.. Think..... How much water are you going to cool, if the veins are empty????? Your fan is doing its job....pulling air thru the radiator.....But nobody told him the veins are empty......
Try this.....Next time the temp rises higher than normal, and the fan comes on, Pop the hood, and feel the air from the fan....I'll bet dollars to donuts it will be "Ice cold"...Which means there is no heat transfer from the Hot water that should be in the radiator, to the fresh air blowing past it. A stuck T-Stat will cause a rise in temp, but will not correct with added revs. A "Broken" Water pump, would not recover with added revs.
Yes indeed your water pump may be bad due to leakage, but I wouldnt jump at that bridge until I saw it for myself, and eliminated all the other (Cheaper) possibilities.

In short.. without trying to be "De-Meaning"......Overthinking a problem is the fastest way to failure.
 
  #7  
Old 04-23-10, 03:15 PM
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OK drove the car after adding about 1 cup of coolant through the open radiator cap. The fins were visible. At the colege I popped the hood and the fans were not running and I saw no wet or damp spots anywhere. I came home later then went back to the college picked up my daughter and then when back home I looked again. Saw nothing again.
This morning I checked under the hood and it was damp around the upper radiator hose on the engine side and the coolant was low in the radiator.
Went looking for a new hose but no-one had one in stock. I tried 5 different places. The new one will arrive at 7:30 in the morning. $20 plus 2 new clamps.
Thanks unclediezel, for all your insights. As you say it is easy to jump to the high dollar problem and forget the easy stuff.
As stated before the recovery tank volume has not changed but the fins are visible in the radiatior again.
Thanks again to everyone who responded to my problem.
 
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