1998 Honda accord surging

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  #1  
Old 06-15-10, 03:58 PM
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1998 Honda accord surging

Sons car started surging ,doesn't matter if engine is cold or hot or if its hot outside ,Have checked all vacume lines and replaced one,I also have bled the cooling system and tested the tps, If you turn on Air conditioning it surges faster,I'm all out of ideas Anyone out their have a idea on what it might be .Car is a standard with 2.0 engine fuel injected Any ideas at all would be greatly appreciated
 
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  #2  
Old 06-21-10, 06:01 PM
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The IAC (idle air control) valve would be my first guess.
 
  #3  
Old 06-21-10, 08:12 PM
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I have replaced the idle air control with one from the wreckers with no change to surging propblem When I unplug wire from valve the engine settles down to a decent idle but the second i apply pressure to the foot feed the idle gets rough and starts to surge again worked the same with either valve
 
  #4  
Old 06-22-10, 07:40 PM
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could the thottle postion sensor be the problem???
 
  #5  
Old 06-24-10, 07:23 PM
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air leak somewhere. get can of brake cleaner spray. warm up engine good. let her idle and give short bursts of cleaner onto throttle body, air intake, any seal and gaskets on parts that have anything to do with air supply/fuel control. have it close enough so that spray cone is not too large, so that you can pin point it. it will stumble or stoll the very moment you hit air leak area.
 
  #6  
Old 06-25-10, 01:23 PM
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Thxs for the tip ukrbyk but nothing happened used about a half can of brake cleaner with no luck,any other suggestions?????
 
  #7  
Old 06-26-10, 07:08 PM
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Update-- No idea on what I did but now car warms up at a fast idle then when it reaches operating temp it starts to surge
 
  #8  
Old 06-27-10, 10:38 AM
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The way a fuel injected engine works is the engine computer gets "input" from various "sensors", then depending on that information, it will add more gas or less gas via the fuel injectors.

If the engine computer is not getting the correct information, then it can do something weird like surging.

A sensor like a "Throttle Position Sensor" (various vehicle manufacturers call some sensors different things - I'm talking in general here...) is not ON/OFF like a light switch... Rather it is like a light dimmer or a volume control on an old radio...

And you may have turned up the volume on an old radio and heard it scratching... turn it a bit more and no sound at all... turn it a bit more and it blasts you!

And a TPS can also fail in this same way. As well as other sensors. Maybe the TPS is telling the engine computer the throttle is open when in fact it is closed?

Some electronic sensors might fail when they get warm and then give an incorrect reading.

Anyway there are a LOT of different sensors which give input to the engine computer.

The thing to do is test these with a multimeter to see if they are giving the engine computer the correct signals.

For example a coolant temperature sensor might read 13 ohms at a certain temperature and 200 ohms at a different temperature. You could test this by measuring the temperature of the engine and then disconnect the wire going to the sensor, then use a multimeter to read the ohms.

Various sensors can be tested this way or by leaving the wire connected and reading the voltage.

For a TPS, you might leave it connected and read the voltage with the throttle closed, then half way open, then all the way open. Or disconnect the wire and read the ohms (resistance) with a multimeter.

The only question is what and where are the various sensors? And what test(s) should be preformed to see if they are working properly, which wires do you test, and what should the readings be?

Some aftermarket repair manuals have this information. But a Factory Service Manual set of books (4 to the set many times) will have complete detailed testing instructions for testing everything in the vehicle. Order from your dealer.

The following sensors have to do with fuel...
Coolant temperature sensor - Lean/rich
Oxygen sensor - Lean/rich - works in closed loop
Atmospheric (barometric) pressure - Lean/rich
Manifold Absolute Pressure - More fuel
Mass Airflow Sensor - Heated - works in open loop
Throttle Position Sensor - More fuel

Another method of repair is to "throw parts at the vehicle". This can be much more expensive than buying the factory book and multimeter and finding the problem. Plus if there is a loose wire or problem with an electrical connector, this will not solve that problem. You could replace all the parts and still have the problem!

Another way is to connect your vehicle to a diagnostic computer or to get diagnostic software for your computer and a cable to connect to the car. Then you can see what *all* the sensors are doing and what the computer is seeing. This would include the wires connecting each sensor to the computer. So this is the best way of testing if you ask me.

The thing is some diagnostic software is quite expensive and/or it may not cover your specific vehicle. Also you would want it to show you "live data" and not just give you diagnostic codes.

Another option would be to take your vehicle to a mechanic and have them connect it to their computer and see what is going on with the sensors. Then repair the problem yourself.
 
  #9  
Old 06-27-10, 06:46 PM
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If it's a '98 and having these problems, I would think that it's throwing a CEL.. any codes stored?
 
  #10  
Old 06-27-10, 08:14 PM
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I'll go on record that I do not recommend wrecking yard parts where emission controls are involved(IAC valves,cats,ect)Recommend you get a new IAC on those it works by opening up to allow air in for till warmed up then closes when at operating temp.When you have the old one out look into the passage where it mounts it should be clean and free of any debris(can stop it from closing all the way).If any in there clean it out.Another common cause of this is the air tube between the air cleaner and throttle body is damaged or not seated all the way.There was also a recall on the air screw in the throttle body it should be turned out 2 turns only,this was emission related though and not for surging.By the symptoms described you have an air leak someplace but totally agree with Bill the entire system needs to be checked with a scan tool with real time monitoring to see what is going on for sure.
 
  #11  
Old 06-28-10, 05:02 AM
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I'm sorry all, but I made mistake on year of car when I first posted its a 88 not a 98 Don't know if that makes a diff Don't know how I made the mistake and why it took so long to see it
 
  #12  
Old 06-28-10, 08:24 AM
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If it is a fuel injected engine, then everything I said mostly applies, but with a pre 96 vehicle, newer "computer" hookups will not work as they are "OBD II".

I have a 92 GM truck and found free "live data" software for that called WinALDL. But I have a 95 foreign made car which does not have any means of reading "live data" via the computer. Need to test each sensor with a multimeter.

Each pre 96 vehicle will have its own diagnostic connector and unique testing methods (and the reason they came out with OBD II). Probably best to take it to a dealer, then they would be sure to have the right testing equipment for that specific vehicle.

Some 80's vehicles had "blinky lights" on the engine computer. You would activate a switch and the lights would blink out diagnostic codes. That might be on the internet? (The older the vehicle, the more stuff on the internet.)
 
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