Check engine light

Reply

  #1  
Old 06-16-10, 07:30 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
Check engine light

I have mercury villager 1997 with check engine light (upstream O2 sensor code). After physically inspect the 3 wire sensor, I found the problem is not with sensor itself nor its wire or the connecter, but the problem is in the socket where the sensor plugged to. The socket should has 3 wire attached to it coming from the car wire harness , but 2 been cut right on the edge of the socket so no room to splice the 2 wire back, now only 1 black wire in the middle attached to the socket . I do not really know what to do. Help Please.
Thanks a lot
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 06-16-10, 08:02 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa fe /texas
Posts: 998
try a salvage yard.
get a '3' wire connector-(don't have to be the same as you have)
get both connectors( male & female)-with 6-8" of wire on both sides.
pay attention to what you are doing & splice it in -to replace the existing connector.

or -possible- the villiager is actually a nissian-try a nissian dealer for the correct connector-or replacement wire/pins.
 
  #3  
Old 06-16-10, 08:12 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
Thank you for your help
I knew the black wire goes in the middle but I am not sure about the other 2 wires which one left or right from the middle? Thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 06-16-10, 11:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
What is going to happen if I reverse the 2 wires by mistake? The sensor will get damaged or just not going to work?

Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 06-30-10, 09:20 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 52
Are they different colors?

If they are different colors auto part supply house should be able to pull up color code and placement. I personally have a manual (Chilton's) for both my wife's Ford Taurus SHO and my Ford F-150. Whenever I buy a vehicle I automatically buy a manual. It has paid for itself many times over. When I sell vehicle I tell them I even have manual for it if they want to slip me a couple more $ for it. When you go get the connector get them to fire up the computer and give you location of wires.
I wouldn't hook them up without knowing...electronic devices are very unforgiving. Later, Marty.
 
  #6  
Old 07-02-10, 10:32 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
Thank you so much for your advice. I reconnected the wires the right way and my check engine light went away, and all codes are cleared except P0325 for the knock sensor. I was reading a lot of posts about the knock sensor, I saw some wiring diagrams too but still I cannot locate the wire plug in my villager 97 to check for the voltage, etc... Also I am not sure if the car will pass the NJ state inspection with the P0325 or not. Thanks again
 
  #7  
Old 07-02-10, 03:49 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Sorry, Missed the last post.

3.0L V6??????? ---Knock sensor is below the lower intake manifold, In the center valley.
 
  #8  
Old 07-06-10, 07:21 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
Your right the Knock sensor is below the lower intake manifold, but what I am looking for is the plug from the sensor sub-harness to the car harness, if I can locate the plug I can do some testing before I try to remove the upper and lower intake manifold which is at least 6 hours job. If I can find the right plug I can measure the voltage and inspect the plug first! Also, I was reading instead of removing the old sensor I can just unplug it and install a new one in a different location on the engine, so I called few dealers trying to buy the sub-harness only but none of them helped, they said is not listed in their catalogs
 
  #9  
Old 07-06-10, 05:11 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
.....SHHHHH.....Mr ford will have my Neck
When These were new, Warranty paid the tech 5.5 hours to replace them....So there were always 3 or 4 of them, lined up outside the service bays just "Killing Time"....the sensor got screwed into the Lift bracket holes on the rear cylinder head....
The sub harness is under the UPPER intake, It isnt listed, because technically it isnt a "Sub-harness" at all. It is a "Breakout" From the INJECTOR harness. , loosen and Lift (Not Remove) the upper intake, and you will see a hole in the casting where the sensor wiring sticks up out of the lower intake, and the connector shell is usually "Clipped" onto the fuel rail. The sensor itself is a "Piezo-Electric generator, so without the engine running,Its kinda "Futile" to try and test it. Resistance will vary based on ambient temp, so thats out, and it isnt going to generate any measurable voltage by itself.

Best shot is to get to the connector, and replace the sensor( Using the cheat of course).. and take it from there. You will be able to check continuity from connector to PCM, but that will still leave you guessing on Sensor Integrity.

Also note before you get too far...ANY lifter tap, lower engine noise, or any mettalic "Rattle" that even remotely sounds like spark knock (Serp belt tensioner comes to mind) will drive this little bugger NUTS.....So a FAIR and UNBIASED evaluation of noise levels should be considered before wasting your time.
 
  #10  
Old 07-08-10, 12:06 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 105
Thank you so much for the information. I am taking a vacation for few weeks, when I come back I will do what you said, and I will post the outcome. Also, I took the car for NJ state inspection and passed. Thank you all for your help
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:06 PM.