Wheel bearing hub tools?
#1
Wheel bearing hub tools?
2005 Dakota 4x4, ABS, 63k miles, has just a little more road noise than normal & small vibration in front end. Brakes seem ok, tires 1yr old balanced/rotated, aligned.
Thinkin wheel bearin hubs.
Question: Any special tools to do job? Half shaft nut need a certain size wrench? or better to let service garage do this job.
Thanks for any input.
Thinkin wheel bearin hubs.
Question: Any special tools to do job? Half shaft nut need a certain size wrench? or better to let service garage do this job.
Thanks for any input.
#2
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa fe /texas
Posts: 947
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
i 'think' the bearing comes as a hub & bearing/housing assy.
yes - there is a specific socket for the c/v 'nut' - some parts stores have loanner tools.
final torque is in the range of 250 ft lb
yes - there is a specific socket for the c/v 'nut' - some parts stores have loanner tools.
final torque is in the range of 250 ft lb
#3
"newtofta" as in new to free to air?
anyhow. here's your test.
run hydraulic jack underneath the lower control arm and lift tire up in the air so it's cleared. put your hands onto the tire, at 3 and 9, and push/pull vigorously. you have any play - that's your tierod end or tierod.
do same with hands on 6 and 12. got any play? it's your hub bearing. datsit.
i can speak only of silverados, but they all have tendency to be designed identical. on silvie, replacing hub bearin - meaning, you have to replace the hub - is about 10 maybe 15 min job. rent driveaxle socket kit from any parts store, that will have one big enough (36 i think). drive to a nearest tireshop and ask them to just break center nut loose, so that you can drive back home. when done, tighten the nut with socket/extension AND cheatpipe, go back to the shop, and let them torque it. unless you have 1200 or so foot pound impact wrench and compressor big enough to run it. donno about Dodges, but on even Hondas, anything below 700 ft pound will not even budge that nut. i have 900er, that does the job.
shake in those trucks can be caused by MANY things. cupped tires. ball joints. pitman or idler, if you have them. out of round tire. shocks getting there. i had to replace idler and left hub at 60K on mine, and install steering dampner, to rid of it.
anyhow. here's your test.
run hydraulic jack underneath the lower control arm and lift tire up in the air so it's cleared. put your hands onto the tire, at 3 and 9, and push/pull vigorously. you have any play - that's your tierod end or tierod.
do same with hands on 6 and 12. got any play? it's your hub bearing. datsit.
i can speak only of silverados, but they all have tendency to be designed identical. on silvie, replacing hub bearin - meaning, you have to replace the hub - is about 10 maybe 15 min job. rent driveaxle socket kit from any parts store, that will have one big enough (36 i think). drive to a nearest tireshop and ask them to just break center nut loose, so that you can drive back home. when done, tighten the nut with socket/extension AND cheatpipe, go back to the shop, and let them torque it. unless you have 1200 or so foot pound impact wrench and compressor big enough to run it. donno about Dodges, but on even Hondas, anything below 700 ft pound will not even budge that nut. i have 900er, that does the job.
shake in those trucks can be caused by MANY things. cupped tires. ball joints. pitman or idler, if you have them. out of round tire. shocks getting there. i had to replace idler and left hub at 60K on mine, and install steering dampner, to rid of it.