stabilizer link issues

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  #1  
Old 07-25-10, 12:13 PM
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stabilizer link issues

Hey all,

I'm working on an '03 Mazda Protege5. The driver side stabilizer link is shot. I can't get the bottom nut off of it. The allen key hole on the bolt is rounded now due to my continuous cranking on the nut with the key trying to hold it steady. Now both the bolt and nut turn in unison. And way, tips or other I could use to separate the nut from the bolt here?

Also, a 2 for. I have a warped caliper. I hear it's maybe from hub rust scale. Only way I reckon the caliper getting warped in less than a year. It's bad. And one side, again, is squealing. I'm tired of redoing my brakes. Every 10 months, without fail. Anyway, the hub is not a smooth surface. I tried working it with a wire brush but it won't ever be smooth. I don't think it was smooth since the first rotor it has ever had on it. We're talking a car with 87K miles on it. I don't know what to do to keep it from warping. The good news is that on the driver side, the only side I've been able to work on thus far because I've been under there for hours today with zero progress, the brake pads have not worn unevenly. Still, I'm worried about warping and I can't get the stabilizer link nut to budge.

Anything?

Thanks!!
 
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  #2  
Old 07-25-10, 01:03 PM
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Nothing huh? Am I that SOL? Guys I'm stuck and it's about to rain hard on me.
 
  #3  
Old 07-25-10, 08:06 PM
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Hey all,

I'm working on an '03 Mazda Protege5. The driver side stabilizer link is shot. I can't get the bottom nut off of it. The allen key hole on the bolt is rounded now due to my continuous cranking on the nut with the key trying to hold it steady. Now both the bolt and nut turn in unison. And way, tips or other I could use to separate the nut from the bolt here?

wise grips. if you can grab the bolt head and nut, good quality, not cheapo stuff, wise grip will hold. spray a ton of liquid wrench on threads first

Also, a 2 for. I have a warped caliper. I hear it's maybe from hub rust scale. Only way I reckon the caliper getting warped in less than a year. It's bad. And one side, again, is squealing. I'm tired of redoing my brakes. Every 10 months, without fail. Anyway, the hub is not a smooth surface. I tried working it with a wire brush but it won't ever be smooth. I don't think it was smooth since the first rotor it has ever had on it. We're talking a car with 87K miles on it. I don't know what to do to keep it from warping. The good news is that on the driver side, the only side I've been able to work on thus far because I've been under there for hours today with zero progress, the brake pads have not worn unevenly. Still, I'm worried about warping and I can't get the stabilizer link nut to budge.

Anything?

i have never heard of warped caliper; warped rotor - yes, not caliper.
personally, i have very poor impression about japanese rotors; they warp way too fast; but it's just my opinion.
if your rotors warp very fast, then you have sticky caliper. it protrudes fine, but does not retract too well. you have 2 choices: buy one from junkyard; overhaul one you have. they are very easy to take aprt. usually, simple cleaning and o-ring replacement does the job. some hone caliper bore inside.
which ever way you want to approach this, buy chilton, not haynes, manual. has much better schematics
Beer 4U2

unless, of course, you had major damage to that side and now payback time is here.
 
  #4  
Old 07-26-10, 05:31 AM
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My mistake. I did say "warped caliper" SEVERAL times. I was frustrated and had been drinking a bit before resorting to posting.

Yes, my rotors are warped. I'm thinking it's rust scale on the hubs from what I read. I don't have the run-off testing device. There's what appears to be a welt on the hub. I'm guessing it lines up with the threaded hole in the rotor? Maybe that's where I went wrong.

My calipers are screwed too. One side was squealing after 10 months (safe to assume uneven pad wear but I haven't even gotten to that wheel yet). I'll just do what I've always done, clean and regrease the slides. I've replaced the calipers twice. I bought some cheap Wagner brake pads, but I used to buy expensive ones thinking all the brake dust on the cheapos were clogging the slide boots. I keep scratching my head. One day I'll give up and drive her up to Meineke but I ALWAYS have bad experiences with shops. This last place I took her to, for the stabilizer link, botched the job as within a week or two, it starts rattling again. A repeat visit and they swap out the link and it drives fine for a week and starts rattling again. I figure it's this nut/bolt issue that they just weren't able to torque it properly. The nut is rounded (almost to the point where my wrench can't grip it) and so there's evidence that the shop was having a hard time with it. My only concern is that if I buy a nut splitter and break the nut, I'd have to go to the dealer to buy a replacement at like $3. Plus they won't have it in stock and have to order it. More problems than a woman. It's still cheaper to keep her I guess
 
  #5  
Old 07-26-10, 06:50 AM
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Got it off! I credit it solely to leverage between the steering linkage and a pair of needle nose vice grips I bought at the Home Depot yesterday. I used a healthy dose of PB Blaster but the threads were so screwed (pun intended, frankly because I can't use profanity) that any liquid wrench would be useless. Now I have to find this nut. This is a pretty common repair, where do you think I might find this nut?

Thanks again!
 
  #6  
Old 07-26-10, 07:38 PM
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sorry to say this, brother, but it just looks like you had some major smack on your undercarriage and now tids and bits of this and that start showing itself.

as of caliper... clogged line may cause this either. sort of one way fluid movement.
check your rotors. are they blue in color? 1st sign of overheating, and that is due to dragging pads and that is due to dragging caliper piston.
is the inner pad worn out more than outer? dragging caliper.

but let me make your life even harder. break booster. i had ford that had push rod inside of it set ever so slightly too far out. burned rotors and brake pads. i replaced the whole entire frigging brake system in the front, including lines. THEN i found that booster was putting too much pressure into the system. sort of continuous braking. have my word - i was pissed.

master cylinder... when was the last time you bled your brake system till clean fluid comes out?
 
  #7  
Old 07-26-10, 08:11 PM
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ukrbyk,

Good stuff but all my bases are covered there. I've owned the car since it was new and the only smack I had was a rear ending. This busted nut and bolt was fromm the mechanic screwing around under there trying to replace my stabilizer link. Trying.

So I got a good look at everything today and the pads were in excellent shape. I could have driven on the things for another 2 years there was so much meat on them. Warped rotors though, so I couldn't put them back on. I just swapped out for new rotors. The new pads seem to be dragging but so too were the previous ones and they seemed to barely wear. Tons of brake dust on the wheels (more than usual), brake judder, and squealing on the passenger side when I brake were my symptoms. I'm assuming that the rough hubs are skewing the the rotors and forcing them, over time, to warp. No idea what made the squealing sound though, brake pads looked REALLY good, and were wearing evenly. I'm baffled. I guess I could run to Autozone and borrow the tool that measures run-out and find the best mounting position (with the least run-out) for the rotor. Anyone know the name of said tool and is its use fairly accurate and easy?
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-10, 06:09 AM
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I use a dial indicator. No loaners here so I bought one from Grizzly for around $35 IIRC.
 
  #9  
Old 07-27-10, 06:39 AM
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That's it! A dial indicator. What does it clip to? And if I don't get a satisfactory reading, how do I situate the rotor any differently so that it turns true and without runout?

Thanks!
 
  #10  
Old 07-27-10, 06:58 AM
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It doesn't really clip to anything. Depending on the car you may be able to attach it to some part of the suspension. I wound up attaching the magnetic base on mine to the steel spare wheel placed near the jacked up car. Could probably use a heavy metal tool box...but the base has to be solid. Then you put the tip of the indicator against the surface to be measured and set the dial to 0. Turn the rotor or hub slowly and watch the needle. Runout should be listed in a shop manual or you might find it online. If checking the rotor..it probably has to be torqued to spec.

I would assume you can try moving the rotor one lug at a time? Unless it has some other method of attachment where it has to go in a certain orientation? Then you would probably need to use shims of some sort (seen those mentioned here before) if they are available for your vehicle.

I'm just a shade tree mechanic...no expert, but that's how I did mine.
 
  #11  
Old 07-27-10, 01:21 PM
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Thanks! Same here on the shade tree front, obviously. But I can't torque it to spec without throwing the wheel on it... then I suppose it'd be near impossible to measure runout. And there are no shims for it.

I drove it around today. Heard the scraping. It scored my brand new rotor. Nothing too terrible and only on one side. Nothing obviously caused it. I regreased the slides on the caliper again and played with the clips holding the pads in. I also rotated the rotor a few lugs. If it's still acting up, I'll drive it to Meineke tomorrow am. I'll repost what comes of it all. Thanks again.
 
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