Driver side power window acting up
#1
Driver side power window acting up
My 1999 Buick Park Avenue that I just purchased last weekend has an issue with the driver side power window. I let the window down, and then when it started back up, it stopped in mid-travel about a 1/3 of the way up. Then it wouldn't move in either direction. It looked like rain, so I went over to a buddy of mine, and he gently pulled up on the window with both hands, while i pushed on the window switch button. The window slowly raised back up to the very top, using the motor inside the door, but it sounded weak, and was moving slower than usual. Fuses checked out OK, so he said there was something else going on.
He popped off the master power window switch that is located on the armrest of the driver's door, and noticed there was only 1 electrical connection on the bottom of the part. This part controls the side mirrors, all 4 of the windows, and has a window lock. Everything is working correctly, except the driver side window.
I did some internet research and found that many park avenues have problems with power window motors failing, causing window to move slowly, or stop in mid-travel. That to me, sounds exactly like the problem. Even though the power window motor is still running and functioning, it may be headed on it's way out. I could probably go outside right now and the window would probably go down, but stall again on the way up.
My friend is going to check the power window switch with his electrical checker, and see if he can pinpoint any problems there, but I am leaning towards the window motor being the culprit.
What do you think, let me know, and are there any other possible things to look for??? I would appreciate any input on this problem.
Thanks,
Dean
He popped off the master power window switch that is located on the armrest of the driver's door, and noticed there was only 1 electrical connection on the bottom of the part. This part controls the side mirrors, all 4 of the windows, and has a window lock. Everything is working correctly, except the driver side window.
I did some internet research and found that many park avenues have problems with power window motors failing, causing window to move slowly, or stop in mid-travel. That to me, sounds exactly like the problem. Even though the power window motor is still running and functioning, it may be headed on it's way out. I could probably go outside right now and the window would probably go down, but stall again on the way up.
My friend is going to check the power window switch with his electrical checker, and see if he can pinpoint any problems there, but I am leaning towards the window motor being the culprit.
What do you think, let me know, and are there any other possible things to look for??? I would appreciate any input on this problem.
Thanks,
Dean
#2
Your on the right track if the switch isn't bad your looking at w weak motor unless you have auto windows on that then there may be a relay involved as well my GM servers down right now so couldn't look it up for you sorry.
#3
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Power window motor fix for cheap
When i had the same problem you are describing in my Dodge stratus, Instead of replacing the motor i took it apart and just cleaned the crud and grit from it. I used a toothpick to clean in between the armature, and sprayed brake cleaner up into the housing and wiped it down real well. I put a little bit of lithium grease in the bottem and on all the rails and pivot points. The window motor works like the day it came off the floor. Hope this cheap solution keeps you from spending the $150+ dollars for a new window motor.
Beer 4U2
Beer 4U2
#4
aftermarket window regulators for GM vehicles are around $75 a pop on ebay and work better than OEM ones. about 10 minutes install, if you handy, unless Buick messed it up bad on their cars.
cleaning works great. question is - for how long?
cleaning works great. question is - for how long?
#5
Bought a power window motor on ebay for $30, now comes the interesting part. The old saying, it pays to know people, holds especially true in this instance.
I know a mechanic who has always treated me right, when it comes to working on my cars, and the prices he charges for labor. I contacted him about fixing my power window, and I could sense he really didn't want to do the job. He talked with another man to get a suggestion on how much to charge me. He said he would do the job between $150 and $200 labor, saying it would take up to 3 hours, plus he couldn't do the repair for at least 2 weeks.
I remembered a man that owns a body shop, that probably 15 years ago, changed out a power window motor for me, and didn't charge much at all. I went to him and he said if I could leave the car overnight, he would fix it the next morning. It took him all of 1 hour to do the job, plus his labor was a mere $25, so parts and labor was only $55 total. That is why it's important to know people that will help you, and not charge you an arm and a leg.
I know a mechanic who has always treated me right, when it comes to working on my cars, and the prices he charges for labor. I contacted him about fixing my power window, and I could sense he really didn't want to do the job. He talked with another man to get a suggestion on how much to charge me. He said he would do the job between $150 and $200 labor, saying it would take up to 3 hours, plus he couldn't do the repair for at least 2 weeks.
I remembered a man that owns a body shop, that probably 15 years ago, changed out a power window motor for me, and didn't charge much at all. I went to him and he said if I could leave the car overnight, he would fix it the next morning. It took him all of 1 hour to do the job, plus his labor was a mere $25, so parts and labor was only $55 total. That is why it's important to know people that will help you, and not charge you an arm and a leg.
#6
Not an electrical issue. Fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible links have nothing to do with the problem. Neither do individual window switches or master switch.
Through 2005 failing motors were a very common issue. Can buy just window motor, but extremely difficult to find without the regulator.
Most times purchase of entire regulator (that includes motor) is necessary. Once installed life of new regulator and motor can be increased 100 fold, if regulator is removed from door once a year and track is thoroughly lubricated with wheel bearing grease.
Through 2005 failing motors were a very common issue. Can buy just window motor, but extremely difficult to find without the regulator.
Most times purchase of entire regulator (that includes motor) is necessary. Once installed life of new regulator and motor can be increased 100 fold, if regulator is removed from door once a year and track is thoroughly lubricated with wheel bearing grease.
#7
when you are bolting the regulator to the glass, remember plastic to glass. Otherwise, you have to go to a yard and buy another window. Speaking from personal experience.
#8
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Replaced 2001 buick lesabre window regulator
dmitchelljr
Try www.regulator.usa for complete rebuilt buick window regulators. It's a New York company and they were very good in processing my order last year. I think it wound up costing me around $125 for a rear window regulator I replaced myself - this was less the $50-$60 refundable deposit once the old unit was returned. I had a mechanic replace the other one a few years back and it was around $350 using a GM OEM regulator.
Replacing the regulator reguires that you remove the inside vinyl door panel by prying with a stiff putty knife and flat-blade screwdriver - carefully so as not to break the plastic attachment clips. There were 2 electrical connections - one for the door lock and one for the window regulator to disconnect. Most of the mounting hardware was easy to access - the most difficult part was manuevering the old regulator assembly out of the door and threading the rebuilt unit back in. I seem to recall there was one 5mm or 6mm bolt that took the most time in the removal/install process but other than that it did take me about 3 hours to do the job. A second job if ever necessary probably won't take as long.
hope this helps.
greynold99
Try www.regulator.usa for complete rebuilt buick window regulators. It's a New York company and they were very good in processing my order last year. I think it wound up costing me around $125 for a rear window regulator I replaced myself - this was less the $50-$60 refundable deposit once the old unit was returned. I had a mechanic replace the other one a few years back and it was around $350 using a GM OEM regulator.
Replacing the regulator reguires that you remove the inside vinyl door panel by prying with a stiff putty knife and flat-blade screwdriver - carefully so as not to break the plastic attachment clips. There were 2 electrical connections - one for the door lock and one for the window regulator to disconnect. Most of the mounting hardware was easy to access - the most difficult part was manuevering the old regulator assembly out of the door and threading the rebuilt unit back in. I seem to recall there was one 5mm or 6mm bolt that took the most time in the removal/install process but other than that it did take me about 3 hours to do the job. A second job if ever necessary probably won't take as long.
hope this helps.
greynold99
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My 1999 Buick Park Avenue that I just purchased last weekend has an issue with the driver side power window. I let the window down, and then when it started back up, it stopped in mid-travel about a 1/3 of the way up. Then it wouldn't move in either direction. It looked like rain, so I went over to a buddy of mine, and he gently pulled up on the window with both hands, while i pushed on the window switch button. The window slowly raised back up to the very top, using the motor inside the door, but it sounded weak, and was moving slower than usual. Fuses checked out OK, so he said there was something else going on.
He popped off the master power window switch that is located on the armrest of the driver's door, and noticed there was only 1 electrical connection on the bottom of the part. This part controls the side mirrors, all 4 of the windows, and has a window lock. Everything is working correctly, except the driver side window.
I did some internet research and found that many park avenues have problems with power window motors failing, causing window to move slowly, or stop in mid-travel. That to me, sounds exactly like the problem. Even though the power window motor is still running and functioning, it may be headed on it's way out. I could probably go outside right now and the window would probably go down, but stall again on the way up.
My friend is going to check the power window switch with his electrical checker, and see if he can pinpoint any problems there, but I am leaning towards the window motor being the culprit.
What do you think, let me know, and are there any other possible things to look for??? I would appreciate any input on this problem.
Thanks,
Dean
He popped off the master power window switch that is located on the armrest of the driver's door, and noticed there was only 1 electrical connection on the bottom of the part. This part controls the side mirrors, all 4 of the windows, and has a window lock. Everything is working correctly, except the driver side window.
I did some internet research and found that many park avenues have problems with power window motors failing, causing window to move slowly, or stop in mid-travel. That to me, sounds exactly like the problem. Even though the power window motor is still running and functioning, it may be headed on it's way out. I could probably go outside right now and the window would probably go down, but stall again on the way up.
My friend is going to check the power window switch with his electrical checker, and see if he can pinpoint any problems there, but I am leaning towards the window motor being the culprit.
What do you think, let me know, and are there any other possible things to look for??? I would appreciate any input on this problem.
Thanks,
Dean