battery being drained

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  #1  
Old 08-28-10, 05:00 PM
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battery being drained

My friend is inheriting a car from his sister. its a 96 Chrysler sebring convertible V6. Something is draining the battery. It will not start unless you jump it then it runs But shut it off it does not restart. how you test if something is draining the battery. The alternator is putting out 13.5 volts. His sister said the cars been sitting for 4 years and shes had to put a few batteries into it. On this car you have to remove the front wheel and inner fenderwell to access the battery.

His other car(forgot what it was) one of the rear brake rotors broke or something like that cause when he apply's the brakes the rear wheel locks up. he was thinking of trying to crimp the brake line to that brake to stop the piston from engaging.
 

Last edited by flirty1; 08-28-10 at 05:16 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-28-10, 08:34 PM
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Several different checks follow...

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Check the battery voltage with a multimeter.

A fully charged battery would read 12.65 volts or higher. Use DC volts 20 on the meter.

The battery should read 12 something volts with just the ignition on (not started).

Then start it and it should then read 13/14 volts at the battery. This is the alternator kicking in and charging the battery.

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If that checks ok, be aware that a poor battery connection can keep things from working right.... There are the battery posts themselves, then the metal on the battery connector side. Test with the multimeter on the battery posts (if you can), and also on the metal part of the battery connectors. If there is a big difference in voltage, clean the battery connections.

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Then other main electrical connections can be loose or bad. This would include main ground wires to the body and to the engine as well as main wires to the alternator and starter. You can do a "voltage drop test" if necessary to find bad connections...
How To Perform A Voltage Drop Test - Help With Automotive Circuit Diagnosis

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Then everything in the vehicle may be working perfect and as it should, however there was some "do-it-yourself" wiring done to add a stereo or other gizmo. And this was wired to always be on and using electricity...

You can track that down by using an amp meter with the vehicle off and no lights on. That means no hood open light and no door open light. Here is how to do that at the lower portion of the page...
Diagnosing A Car Battery That Runs Down
 
  #3  
Old 08-29-10, 04:51 AM
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I’m posting two tests. First test is below. For second test click on the link at the bottom of this page. Post back all results.


Simple car alternator test

Make sure all the accessories on your car are turned off (lights, radio etc.). Now rev up the cars engine to a fast idle of say 2000-2500 rpm.

Set a digital volt meter or multi-meter to the DC scale and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The red lead of the meter on the positive terminal, black lead on the negative.

You will need a helper to rev the engine after the meter is connected to the battery.

With the engine at a fast idle, the voltage on the meter should read around 14 volts (13.5 to 14.4) is the accepted industry standard. Remember an alternator needs to generate a larger voltage than the battery's rated voltage. This is necessary for overcoming the internal resistance of the battery.

Now turn on the heater, the rear window defroster,, the radio, the headlights and anything else that draws power from the battery.

Now rev up the engine again and look at the meter.
The meter should still be reading around 14 volts. If it reads lower than 13 volts the chances are that the alternator is defective and will need to be replaced.


Click on link below.

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain | eHow.com
 
  #4  
Old 08-29-10, 05:56 AM
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Another test to is to check the amperage drain with the engine off and all accessories off. Put the ammeter in series with the battery. It should read, at a maximum, less than 20milliamperes.

I have one car that has a relatively high battery drain with everything off due to a clock/stop watch combination that is a factory installation. An old and weak battery can be pulled down overnight by it and, if fact, was. A new battery solved the problem.
 
  #5  
Old 08-30-10, 01:35 PM
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Look down the wiring for the battery cables. Are the positive and negative touching? That happened on one vehicle I had that had te sam issue you are describinng. Couldn't believe the battery never exploded.
 
  #6  
Old 08-30-10, 02:13 PM
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You said that the car has been sitting for four years. The internal memories have drained it to the point of no recharge possible. Bite the bullet and pull the battery. Then have it tested at one of the auto parts stores that does free tests. Once you have a known good battery you can check for unusual draws.
 
  #7  
Old 08-30-10, 03:41 PM
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On the brake issue, it would make more sense to replace the caliper. If it is a 94 Jetta a coworker just paid $60 for one.
 
  #8  
Old 09-01-10, 01:01 PM
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Ok got a update. took awhile but he got the battery out. Took it to autozone they charged it and tested it and said it was shot. Don't know how 3 battery's can go unless they weren't new batterys to begine with. will see friday if he can afford a new battery.
 
  #9  
Old 09-01-10, 01:32 PM
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(Quote) Don't know how 3 battery's can go unless they weren't new batterys to begine with.

If all three batteries came from Auto Zone then they were new. Stores like Auto Zone don't sell used batteries. Even if the batteries came from a junk yard, it's unlikely that three shorted/defective batteries were purchased in a row. Experience is telling me that the batteries are just being replaced, without the cause for failure being resolved, so the batteries have no choice but to keep dying.

Here it is again. Post back the results.


I’m posting two tests. First test is below. For second test click on the link at the bottom of this page. Post back all results.


Simple car alternator test

Make sure all the accessories on your car are turned off (lights, radio etc.). Now rev up the cars engine to a fast idle of say 2000-2500 rpm.

Set a digital volt meter or multi-meter to the DC scale and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The red lead of the meter on the positive terminal, black lead on the negative.

You will need a helper to rev the engine after the meter is connected to the battery.

With the engine at a fast idle, the voltage on the meter should read around 14 volts (13.5 to 14.4) is the accepted industry standard. Remember an alternator needs to generate a larger voltage than the battery's rated voltage. This is necessary for overcoming the internal resistance of the battery.

Now turn on the heater, the rear window defroster,, the radio, the headlights and anything else that draws power from the battery.

Now rev up the engine again and look at the meter.
The meter should still be reading around 14 volts. If it reads lower than 13 volts the chances are that the alternator is defective and will need to be replaced.


Click on link below.


How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain | eHow.com
 
  #10  
Old 09-03-10, 09:57 PM
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I ment 3 batteries in 4 years with it just sitting or something IDK that's what his sister said. The battery autozone tested was the current old one.
 
  #11  
Old 09-03-10, 11:08 PM
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If it has just been sitting there and not started regularly, nor the battery charged regularly, then the battery would drain down to nothing and this would damage the battery. Even a new battery.

The following link explains it...
(See "8. Battery life and performance" about 3/4 the way down)
Battery Tutorial
 
  #12  
Old 09-07-10, 08:34 PM
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OK He got the new battery put it in everything works the lights the alarm lights he can see to enter the code(this car has alarm you need to enter a 4 digit code or the engine won't turn over). well the car won't start. it cranks and cranks etc but will not fire. Any ideas. The alarm is not the problem cause if it was not working the engine wouldn't even turn over. It fired when jumping the old battery but it ran off the alternator cause the old battery had a bad cell.
 
  #13  
Old 09-07-10, 11:28 PM
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Check the basics, Fuel, Spark, Air.

Fuel: While someone is turning the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body (just a light spray - two seconds). If you get a response, then this is a fuel problem.

Spark: Remove a spark plug and place the side screw portion against a piece of body metal or engine metal (grounded to battery negative/ground). Then watch as someone turns the key to start. See if there is spark. Advanced spark testing is to use a spark testing tool which would typically have a gap of .25 inch. You should see a crisp blue spark. This is a larger gap than a spark plug and tests that the coil is producing a high enough voltage. (Good spark as opposed to weak spark.)

Air: Slightly press on the accelerator while trying to start. Normally the throttle is completely closed and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve adjusts to admit air into the engine. By pressing slightly on the accelerator, you are bypassing the IAC valve and allowing air to enter the engine.

Combination test: While someone slightly presses on the accelerator and turns the key to start, have someone else spray starting fluid into the throttle body.

Note: Gasoline can go bad! I've had 1 year old gasoline which would not start small engines like for a chainsaw. Then I got fresh gas and the chainsaw started right up.

Also keep the new battery charged with a battery charger. If you run it too low trying to start, that will keep it from starting as well.
 
  #14  
Old 09-08-10, 03:59 AM
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Flirty1

The first thing is I’m still waiting to see the test results for the tests I posted.

(Quote) It fired when jumping the old battery but it ran off the alternator cause the old battery had a bad cell.

Defective alternators can damage batteries, ( and visa versa). All the more reason to do the tests I posted, and tell us the results.

Check for blown fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible links.

You should know that the “Control Module” for the keypad alarm you’re referring to initializes a “Latching Relay” via a “Photo Flash” capacitor.

Don’t think that because the keypad is “Fried” that it’s disabled. Frequently when a keypad type alarm fails, the relay will remain in the “Unlatched” position. This could be why the car is cranking and not turning over. Since the alarm is fried it’s best if you remove it from the cars circuitry and restore the original “OE” circuitry.
 
  #15  
Old 10-02-10, 03:04 PM
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OK according to my friend we think we have it traced to the ASD. Any fuse he puts into the asd blows right away whether the ignition is on or not. The fuel pump is not running either so its not getting power. So there is a short. How much does the ASD run and can you even get it.
 
  #16  
Old 10-24-10, 01:52 PM
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OK according to my friend "the fuse box in the engine compartment says ASD for the fuse that blows when you put a fuse in, even when the car is turned off. In the owner's manual it doesn't say ASD, it says "Ignition Fuel Starter" for that fuse. That sounds like it only pertains to the fuel pump". any ideas.
 
  #17  
Old 10-24-10, 03:32 PM
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Possible bad PCM.

Are any codes present?


Especially P1494, P1495, P0500.
 
  #18  
Old 10-24-10, 05:02 PM
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Especially P1494, P1495, P0500.


How much does the ASD run and can you even get it.
Any fuse he puts into the asd blows right away whether the ignition is on or not.
Point #1......If you dont know what it is or what it is supposd to do...How do you expect to fix it??

#2 ..If the fuse blows with the key in your hand and the ignition off, You cant blame a component that works off of ignition power.....

Depending on the engine, The owners manual may not be correct...If the fuse panel designates ASD...then that is what must be used.
 
  #19  
Old 10-24-10, 05:51 PM
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I don't have access to the car alright im trying to help via email. The car is at his sisters house so its not like i can hope a bus over to his house. He doesn't have any working cars right now. Now can you give me a bunch of trouble shooting tips so i can tell him what to do. The alarm has been removed so that's not the problem like was suggested. The car also has 2 flat tires.
 
  #20  
Old 10-25-10, 11:44 AM
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(Quote) I don't have access to the car alright im trying to help via email.

After spinning wrenches for 66 years, I can tell you that resolving the sort of ASD issue you are describing via e-mails is easy. You see, it really depends on the individual who’s receiving those e-mails. That person must have more than a decades worth of experience in troubleshooting automotive electrical systems.

Quote) Now can you give me a bunch of trouble shooting tips so i can tell him what to do.

That’s been done already. We’re just waiting for you to post the answers to our questions, and the results for of our troubleshooting tips.

(Quote) The alarm has been removed so that's not the problem like was suggested.

Really?
Are you sure?
Scroll back a little and read what I wrote about the alarm. I’m still waiting to get confirmation on that.

(Quote) The car also has 2 flat tires.

Doesn’t matter if it has 16 flats.

Fix the flats.
Jump out the ASD
Rig the fuel pump to come on
Get the car to a pro who can fix it
 
  #21  
Old 12-23-10, 10:27 AM
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Ok a Update. He got it running. A computer chip had to be replaced and it cost close to $400 to replace.
 
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