Purple synthetic oil

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  #1  
Old 08-29-10, 12:34 PM
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Purple synthetic oil

Are the horespower and mpg gains by using the synthetic purple oil make it worth twice the cost of conventional oil? Just wondered. Please do not delete this post like which happened yesterday when I posted close to the same question. thank you much. I do mostly highway, would this make a difference?
 

Last edited by NEsportsfan; 08-29-10 at 03:34 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-29-10, 12:49 PM
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I don't see where any post by you yesterday in this Forum has been removed. Perhaps there was a 'net problem and it didn't make it?

As to the question....
Some people swear by it..others don't. I think it depends more on the specific engine and usage. Some manufacturers require it...none say don't use it AFAIK.

I believe more people switch to it in regular vehicles to increase the change interval and to somewhat minimize wear. Regular oil changes with regular petro oil are normally just fine.
 
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Old 08-29-10, 01:29 PM
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well, any sales pitch should be taken with a grain of salt.
seriously, there will be barely perceptible gain, if any.

now, i used to be an ardent user of royal purple. 10 000 miles oil changes! wow, that was something, considering i was driving 11-12 hundred miles A WEEK.

but ever since i have discovered amsoil, that's it.

so, yes,, you will have well running engine. hp wise, don't.
mpg wise, maybe a mile to a gallon? a half mile? i used to log my daily mileage for over a year. so i know.
 
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Old 08-29-10, 01:46 PM
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Wasn't aware of the extended intervals. I drive about 500 miles per week. I just find it hard to believe people will pay $9 for a quart of oil like I saw advertised by one of the dealers on the Royal purple website.
 
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Old 08-29-10, 02:08 PM
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The purple color is probably a carryover from the old "Royal Triton" a normal oil that was tinted.

I use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) in my cars.

In my Corevette it came in the car and I continued to use it because because it provided a little more freedom scheduling by oil changes between storage oeriods in a cold climate.

I also use it in my 1999 Jimmy that was bought through a dealer at 24,000 miles from the corporate office. It came with Mobil 1 in it and I got every record on the car before them including an early front hub replacement. I now have 145,000 miles on it and it has been bullet-proof. In a highly variable climate (-30F to +100F) and scheduling a change at my local mechanic/consultant. He does not carry it but suggested I buy it at WalMart just like he does for his 1958 Corvette.

The cost and trouble of changing oil and servicing is mainly labor for me because I buy my oil cheap and have the flexibility of stretching out changes depending on the weather anticipated and for longer times.

If I lived in Florida, I would have different needs and schedules.

Dick
 
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Old 08-29-10, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NEsportsfan View Post
Wasn't aware of the extended intervals. I drive about 500 miles per week. I just find it hard to believe people will pay $9 for a quart of oil like I saw advertised by one of the dealers on the Royal purple website.
ok, how about this:

i use amsoil only, it's about 9.80 a quart.
i use either k&n or mobil1 filter, it's around 12 bucks
i use gallon of flush oil, another 10 bucks.

for my silverado, it's 6 qrts=60+12+10= 82 oil change. crazy, isn't it? well, except that i change amsoil every 15 000 miles (and it's still not even dark) so, even at 5000 miles oil changes, it's cheaper to do it my way. not even saying about 3000 miles changes. plus, swiss clock running engines.

amsoil is guaranteed for 25 000 miles normal driving conditions. RP for 10 000, unless they upgraded it.
 
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Old 08-29-10, 03:33 PM
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Wasn't aware you could run 25k on the same oil and filter. I normally get the $20 sale at Advance which last time was 5 quarts of Castrol hi mileage and the upgraded yellow rough Purolator filter. So I actually would save money in the long run if it was 25k becasue this way would be $160+ tax for 8 oil changes at 3 k per. I drive mostly highway, would that make a difference? I might try it for the next car, the one I drive now uses a quart every 2k.
 
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Old 08-29-10, 03:45 PM
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I have been using synthetic oil for about 20 years, mostly syntec in all my cars and trucks boats mowers a 50 yr old tiller a 44 yr old snow blower, engins and gear boxes, and basicly have had no trouble. But it is important to keep the oil fresh in the engins.
Sid
 
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Old 08-29-10, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NEsportsfan View Post
Wasn't aware you could run 25k on the same oil and filter. I normally get the $20 sale at Advance which last time was 5 quarts of Castrol hi mileage and the upgraded yellow rough Purolator filter. So I actually would save money in the long run if it was 25k becasue this way would be $160+ tax for 8 oil changes at 3 k per. I drive mostly highway, would that make a difference? I might try it for the next car, the one I drive now uses a quart every 2k.

here are some things to consider:
1. you always get what you paid for
2. there are 3 best oil filters available; one of them is for Japanese market only, can't be bought here in the USA, i tried. next best available is mobil1; right past it is purolator, but then, by the time research was done, k&n put their filter on the market. i contacted guy who did research on filters, he stepped out, bought k&n, gutted it, and let me know that inside it is as good as mobil1. so, for me, it's either mobil1 or k&n, except that the last has easy remove nut on it. winner on my book.
3. synth oil makes economic sense only under one circumstance: you car is NOT taking oil in any manner. otherwise, a) oil consumption will increase, as it's a slippery kind of oils that goes into any hole; and b) routine adding of oil to keep level up is tooo expensive.
4. some cars don't like switching to synth. they develop leaks.
5. quality modern cars come out of factory with synth oil in them. what dealer will tell you to use is what profits the dealer, not you. so, they still recommend 3K and regular oil changes. as oil changes is their bread and butter, not engine replacements. profit margin is much lower on big jobs.

personally, i have never went all the way up to 25K. i started low, around 8K, then went to 10, now it all goes 15. my wife's lexus does not burn amsoil at all even at 15K.

also, don't forget that i do sweet oil changes. i do pre-clean engine with seafoam, by running on it in the cranckcase for about 500 miles before oil change; also, i flush engine with flush oil before pouring new one in. i do not save on oil, gas, and never buy cheapest parts available. esp from schucks. brrr... i go 2nd or 3rd from the bottom on the price list.
 
  #10  
Old 08-30-10, 07:39 AM
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I participate on several sports car driving enthusiast oriented forums and I can tell you that discussing types of oils is like discussing religion or politics. No one is going to convince anyone of anything. And everyone has his/her opinion.
 
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Old 08-30-10, 01:15 PM
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That $20 special at Advance receipt shows a savings of about $14 normally. I have heard many horror stories about the professional $19.95 or less oil change such as hollowed out filters so I would rather do it myself at that price and the town dump is closer to my house than the store so I take the used oil there. Wouldn't consider synthetic for my car now because it does use oil, not sure how since there are no puddles in the driveway (paved) and no visible exhaust smoke.

I normally don't buy the lowgrade parts myself unless it is a really bad week cashwise. for example I DO NOT BUY the $1 spark plugs even for the weedwacker. I use midgrade at $3 or $4 per plug. For the seafoam does the oil have to be below full on the dipstick?

I always get gas at the wholesale club I am a member of and the guy at the pumps told me they normally get either Mobil or Hess gas. It was at $2.659 today, but don't need gas yet. If it drops further in a couple days, that would be great
 
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Old 08-30-10, 05:47 PM
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nice chat!!

they use power tools on drain plugs. aha. you know how much hassle is to replace oil pan because of the stripped plug?

anyhow, seafoam comes in small bottles, less than a pint. it will not overfill. i drove my ranger on it once for over 2 000 miles, just to check it out. nothing. but you will have hell of a dirty oil coming out. absolutely flush. i use supertech oil from walmart. it's the cheapest around. pour it in like fresh honey, run it through for 15, with occasional revs - comes out pitch black.

it's a blow by burn out. usually, valve stem seals. anything in dodge/chrysler/mitsubishi realm is that way, at least from my experience. we had 3 mitsubishes, own another one now, and had a chrysler, older or newer - oil takers, period.

but they say, half way drop between the marks on the dipstick is ok for about 1000 mile4s. though from cars we have now, i have to state otherwise. there's virtually none. so, whatever.

you might have good success with synthetic blend. it's not as expensive as amsoil or RP, and is more dense, so it does not go easily into every pin hole.
 
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Old 09-01-10, 04:44 PM
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did the 4th oil change on my Crown Vic last week using conventional oil. As I was putting a new oil filter on, which you need to take the driver's front tire off and reach through steering components to put in the horizontal mount filter, the drain plug is horizontal too and is visible with that tire off so I don't need to go under the car to change the oil.
 
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