2005 Chevy Trailblazer Fuel Gauge broken

2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS aprox 60k miles. Fuel Gauge broken. Sometimes gauge will work, then just drop down to empty. Just saw there are 24 complaints about this on carcomplaints.com, but no recalls, and only solution is to replace the fuel sensor, which calls for the fuel tank to be dropped. Does this make sense? does it also make sense to replace the fuel pump at this point, or is the fuel sensor attached to the pump anyway? Has anyone heard about a recall?

 

Possible fuel sensor issue.

Tsb is out (Below). Can’t remember if TSB is for 2 or 4 wheel drive. Confirm with dealer by running “VIN.

TSB # PIT3208E

Run instrument cluster check via scan tool. If fault comes back, (because of mileage) cluster may still be under warranty check with dealer.

 

sounds like they have never fixed the issue, along with many others that run for years. i have 2000 silverado and it's exactly same way.

folks say, ground on sending unit gets rusted very fast. easiest is to start with locating that ground and cleaning it. might be easier on yours, on mine, you almost have to drop tank down to get to it. you might be lucky and have access to it underneath the rear seat.

fuel pumps are known to go bad at low miles on GM cars, so yes, should you decide and get THERE, then yes, replace pump same time.

 

Truck first going into the dealer today for repair of fuel gauge, not sure what it is yet. Just read on another site that it could be the Fuel Level Sensing unit, which may be under warranty?? I think this is what was referred to above, the fuel sensor) Don't remember what warranty is, thinking either 60k miles or 100k, but currently have 77k, and it's almost 6 years old. Has anyone seen a defective sensing unit as the culprit? and where is this located? If this is what's attached to the fuel pump inside the tank, then sounds like repair will be costly either way.

 

Was told the fuel sensor is bad, they said the cluster was fine and I asked about fuel pump, they said that's fine too. I nearly fell out of my chair when they told me it would cost $1038 + tax to repair!!! what is that, like 15 hours labor??? Feel like I am being taken for a ride. Repair is on hold, since the car is already in for the blower resister/connector for the blower motor - and that's costing me $398.

Anything I should question the dealer with, or does this seem reasonable? They DO have to drop the tank to repair. they said they checked everything through the vehicle diagnostics.

They DID tell me it's 4 hours labor, I believe at $230/hour is $920, plus $118 for the part. Would a small shop do this repair for any less??

 

well, basically most posters here agreed you have sending unit in the fuel tank at fault.
bad ground or the unit itself.
not sure how it works on your car, but on my Silverado, to get to fuel pump/sending unit, you have to either drop the tank, or lift the truck bed off the chassis.
i still think, it's a damn rip off what they ask. shop around. funny part will be should they replace what they THINK is bad, and gauge will still be doing this. go into GM forums. clusters are BAD on those cars.

 

I think because of the cost, and they don't want to admit they made a mistake, car makers are slow to make recalls, unless it is killing people, or there sales. Look how long it took chevy to make a recall on there motor mounts. And all they did was add a cable, so the motor couldn't jump out the car. But the motor could still move enough to still break the fuel pump. After a few fuel pumps, I made my own recall. I removed the motor mounts, and drilled 3/4 '' hole and bolted the 2 halves together. There was a little vibration, but no more broken fuel pumps, and not having to worry about my motor coming through the hood.

 

Thats a faily easy DIY repair. Bought resisor pack for wifes car. $12 on line. Device is plugged into the blower motor. Just need to drop the knee/foot plate under the dash. It was simple. Only two speeds worked out of five. I would not give a dealer two cents of my money. But thats just me.


Is the fuel sensor part of the whole assembly? Are they going in to just change that? Might as well put a whole new pump in while they are in there.


When I replace my fuel pump I was given two options.

1. drop the tank. ( No way. Not with 22 rusted bolts just to get the skid plate off to get to the tank. The te tank hangers and filler hose was not looking too good. Would have opened a can of worms. Nope!!)

2. Lift the bed. ( Well sounded good. But filler hose again. Also I assumes from the holes in the frame that I had carriage bolts. Hmmm. How many would I drop in the frame to never see again. Nope!!)

3. Mike from NJ's option #3.

Remove duraliner.
Stand over fuel tank in the bed and eye up where the fuel pump is.
Get a angle grinder with a diamond wheel.
Cut 10"x10" sqaure from bed. Dont go too deep, but there was plenty of room.
Bingo. Dead on.
Remove clip fuel hoses, wire molex, pump retainer, and out it came.
Install new unit in reverse order from auto store that was 1/3 price of OEM
Make 12"x12" plate and cover the hole. Put a bead of silicone around the plate, and sheet metal screw it. Self tappers.
Install duraliner.
Start truck and drive.

Total cost. $198.00 and a handful of friends that laughed at me. ( They called me names also )
Total time 1 hour.

My friends chevy blazer, took him and another buddy, 5 hours to change the pump.

Just my 2 cents.

Mike NJ

 

Well after calling other deales, 1 of which the service mgr is a relative of a co-worker (dealer is not local so difficult to take truck there) I was told about 500-600 to replace fuel level sensor.

Called back dealer servicing car, and questioned them, and they said they made a mistake that the $1038 was TOTAL price, including $400 blower repair. When I checked online the resistor was $60 and the connector was almost $100 (aprox what dealer was charging) and oil change of $35 and fuel sensor cost of $605. Price for sensor was $145 for the part (online found it for $115) and 4 hours labor for a total of $606. sensor was separate from fuel pump and to replace fuel pump they said charge would be over $1000. They said it was functioning fine, no need to replace....But to the points made by others posting in this thread, would have made sense to replace since the labor is already paid for to drop tank. Surprised they didn't recommend it for the extra few hundered. Plan on selling truck within 6 months anyway, so happy the fuel gauge is now working ($600 just for a stupid needle to move around on the dash) and the AC was a MUST, as this broke the day before 95 degree temps.

Thanks for all the feedback

 

UPDATE: Maybe a year or so ago I received a letter from GM stating that the fuel gauge was a problem and they would pay for 50% of the repair. Since I had it done already, at a Chevy dealer, I sent in the receipt and they sent me a check. Few weeks back got a 2nd letter, thought it was same as first, but GM agreed to pay 100% of the cost. Just got 2nd check for aprox $325, so in the end the fuel sensor replacement was FREE...I will savor this moment, not likely to repeat again!!