A clutch Q

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  #1  
Old 09-08-10, 05:48 PM
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A clutch Q

I have a 1998 Ranger with a 4 cyl.

Is there a way to test the clutch master cylinder without dropping the transmission? The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment.

Thanks!!

Chuck
 
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Old 09-08-10, 06:13 PM
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  #3  
Old 09-09-10, 05:19 AM
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Tell us in detail exactly what your problem is, and why you think it's related to the slave cylinder.
 
  #4  
Old 09-09-10, 05:06 PM
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The issue is I have 380,000 miles on the truck and am not going to put a lot of money into it now so if there's a quick check without pulling the transmission I'm all for that.

There's not a lot of resistance when I push in the pedal and the clutch was replaced 25,000 miles ago. I've had to replace the slave cylinder 4 times even though 3 were under warranty but have never replaced the master cylinder. The slave cylinders start leaking but this one isn't.

I cannot get the truck into reverse with the engine started. I canget it into first most of the time but right afterward the clutch releases and I burn rubber. After going into second and third gears I can burn rubber as well. It's a rough ride!!

Usually I start it in first with the clutch pedal pushed in and just go.

Thanks!!
Chuck
 
  #5  
Old 09-09-10, 05:50 PM
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well, did you bleed the clutch cylinder? and, at this mileage( them rangers are tough, aye?) the whole entire fluid, which is no more than brake fluid?
 
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Old 09-10-10, 04:13 PM
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No....Don't know how to...
 
  #7  
Old 09-10-10, 04:27 PM
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Sounds like the clutch master. No need to pull the transmission to access. Rule out fluid leaks, then bleed. If no change then replace.


To Replace

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.

Remove the switch from the master cylinder assembly, if equipped.

Remove the screw retaining the fluid reservoir to the cowl access cover.

Disconnect the tube from the slave cylinder and plug both openings.

Remove the bolts retaining the clutch master cylinder to the dash panel and remove the clutch master cylinder assembly.


To Install:

Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Make certain it is located on the correct side of the clutch pedal.

Place the master cylinder assembly in position and install the retaining bolts. Tighten to 1-12 ft. lbs.

Insert the coupling end into the slave cylinder and install the tube into the clips.

Fit the reservoir on the cowl access cover and install the retaining screws.

Replace the retainer bushing in the clutch master cylinder pushrod if worn or damaged. Install the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin.

Make certain the bushing is fitted correctly with the flange of the bushing against the pedal blade.

Install the switch.

Bleed the system.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.



 
  #8  
Old 09-11-10, 11:11 AM
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Hey....Thanks for that info and photo...A funny thing happened today...I wasn't getting much pressure so I added the small amount (1 tablespoon) that it was missing over the last 400 or so miles and a little after that I was getting pretty goos resistance then back to very little. When I got home fluid had spewed out of that tiny hole in the top.


Any thoughs on that??

I really appreciate your help!!!


Chuck
 
  #9  
Old 09-11-10, 03:02 PM
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ok, you are dealing with a closed circuite - or it should be - hydraulic system.
hydraulic(brake) fluid has a specifically chosen degree of compressibility. when you press clutch pedal, a small pin presses on clutch master piston, this creates appropriate pressure in the system, that is transferred, via hydraulic fluid, to clutch cylinder, piston is pushed out, presses on the fork or otherwise engages clutch plate.

with this being said, if you introduce air into the system, it has a different degree of compressibility, more than hydraulic fluid. simply put, it compresses more than hydraulic fluid. as a result, it creates less resistance to the clutch pedal pressure.

please, just bleed the clutch cylinder and see what happens. it's virtually 5 minute job. see what happens next. if it fixes the issue and then is comes back, you have air leaking into the circuit from somewhere. on my son's eclipse, we had to bleed cylinder every time we had trannie off. we had to do it 3 times in one day, due to marvelously intricate spring design for pressure bearing that was total pita to put back in place right.
 
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Old 09-11-10, 03:57 PM
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Ok...I'm convinced to try...I will give it a go tomorrow morning right before the games begin..

Thanks again!!!
 
  #11  
Old 09-11-10, 07:28 PM
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you can buy a DIY kit at any parts store. allows you to do it all single handily, without a helper. bottle is sort of small, but it's about right for the clutch job.
buy a midsize can of brake fluid, and bleed until clear fluid comes out. don't forget to check on fluid level after each 5-6 pumps. you don't want to let air into the master from the top.
normally, bleeder is 8mm. DO NOT try to use an open end wrench on it. you'll strip the head. you must use box wrench. should not be issue for a truck, but on some cars bleeder is very low profile, i have one 8mm shaved down to about half thickness to fit over it. as you have to put wrench on, then bleeding tube over it.
if the tube does not go on, warm it up with hair drier. spit inside, makes nice lubricant.
loosen up bleeder BEFORE you start bleeding. just enough for a tiniest bit of fluid to start showing. from that on, you need only half a turn to let fluid out. all it takes.
 
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Old 09-11-10, 08:04 PM
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Rule out a defective or leaking master. No point in bleeding if defective. Two person method below. I just prefer it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the vehicle battery.

Locate the clutch master cylinder reservoir in the engine compartment, on the driver side of the vehicle, against the firewall.

Wipe any dirt, debris or grease from the reservoir assembly and reservoir fill cap using a clean rag or towel.

Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir fill cap and diaphragm. Fill the reservoir with D.O.T. 3 brake fluid.

Locate the slave cylinder and slave cylinder bleed screw on the transmission assembly next to the transmission bell housing, under the vehicle.

The bleed screw has a hole in the center of the screw.

Place an empty container under the slave cylinder bleed screw to catch the extra hydraulic fluid during the bleeding process.

Turn the bleed screw counterclockwise with a box-end wrench.

Leave the bleed screw open until a steady stream of fluid is coming out of the bleed screw, then turn the bleed screw clockwise, tightening the bleed screw and cutting off the fluid flow.

This process has filled the slave cylinder with fluid to prepare the hydraulic system for bleeding.

Do not completely remove the bleed screw during this process.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with D.O.T. 3 brake fluid.

Push the clutch pedal to the floor and fully release the clutch pedal 10 times using a rapid "pumping" motion.

This process forces any air in the system toward the slave cylinder bleed screw assembly.

Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with D.O.T. 3 brake fluid.

Push the clutch pedal to the floor and fully release the clutch pedal 10 times using a rapid "pumping" motion. This process forces any air in the system toward the slave cylinder bleed screw assembly.

Push the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor. Have a second person open the bleed screw with a box-end wrench by turning the bleed screw counterclockwise.

Leave the bleed screw open until all of the air escapes the system and a steady stream of hydraulic fluid is coming out of the bleed screw.

Turn the bleed screw clockwise until fully tightened, stopping the flow of the hydraulic fluid. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir does not run "dry" during this process.

Fill the reservoir if necessary.

Release the clutch pedal.

Fill the clutch master-cylinder reservoir with D.O.T. 3 brake fluid to the "fill" line.

Install the master cylinder diaphragm and reservoir cap.

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicle battery.

Start the vehicle and push in the clutch.

Put the transmission in reverse gear.

If the transmission makes a grinding sound, repeat the bleeding process until the transmission can be put in reverse without grinding.
 
  #13  
Old 09-15-10, 06:02 AM
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I did a thorough bleeding over a couple of days and it's working much better.

I'm sure it will get me through the next couple of months until I finish my house and can re-fi and get a newer one!!

Thanks for all the help!!
 
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