Wheel Issues

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  #1  
Old 10-01-10, 03:14 PM
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Wheel Issues

2002 Mazda 626 2L LX
For some time I suspected that my car was not coasting like it should (i.e., slow down faster than one might expect). Mostly attributed it to a low tire which I would pump up. On the way home from work tonight, I braked for traffic going about 55 and started a light rhythmic thumping. Front end just didn't drive right, seemed to be pulling or dragging hard. Stopped in the emergency checked it out, and the front rims felt warm but reasonable I felt and I drove a 2-4 four miles further to the house. When I got home both front rims seemed much hotter than earlier. Any suggestion to narrow down problems, brakes bearing, transaxle??? no real notable noise other than thumping when braking at high speed ie 45-55.
 
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Old 10-01-10, 04:46 PM
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Do you feel a pulsation in the brake pedal as well? If yes then itís most likely a rotor issue. Other possibilities (factoring in heat at rims) tells me itís a brake caliper issue, or a flex hose issue thatís causing a caliper issue. Try this, Loosen the lug nuts and torque them to spec, rather than simply tightening them, and let us know if that makes a difference.
 
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Old 10-01-10, 05:06 PM
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Are your BACK brakes working as they should. I'd say many people don't even know if their backbrakes have worn out/glazed, etc.. This may only cause one to have to stand on the brake pedal harder than you used to. And that may have come so gradual that you don't even remember how the car should stop(as quickly) anymore.

This standing on the brake more, to get it to stop, can cause more heat and warpage on the front brake parts. Not that this is your cause - but had to throw that out there.
 
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Old 10-01-10, 05:26 PM
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do the rotors have screws that hold the rotors on? check those to make sure they are tight. i agree with the person who said to check the torque on the front wheels, thatd be the first step. lift up the car, put it in neutral and spin the front tires, they should spin (somewhat) freely and equally. if one is harder to spin than the other you have a braking issue. also check your tierods/ball joints...
 
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Old 10-01-10, 07:59 PM
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car slowing down too fast by itself?
overheating wheels?
well, wheels should be warm. the way brakes work is slowing down a vehicle by transforming friction into heat. it takes a lot of brakes use, though, to get wheels to "not comfortable to be touched by hand" condition.
here's a simple check. remove a wheel. look at the rotor. do you see any dark blue zones on it? good rotor should be uniformly - gray. maybe with some shine, minor groves, but gray. blue rotor, or blue streaks on it - sign of overheating.
2nd test. does your caliper move back and for (towards engine-towards you) with light hand push? if not, your caliper guides stuck, and you are braking only with one side, most likely - piston side.
but if you see blue streaks - you have sticky piston, that is causing dragging brake pad, that is causing rotor overheating - sure enough, extra friction will slow you down faster.
thump? rotor is slightly warped, so if brake pad is dragging, it hits high spot on rotor with thump.
just a possible scenario. otherwise, ripped tire belt will do thumping. haven't you mentioned one tire running low? ever put FlatFix into a tire? that will thump either. tires can do all kinds of noises.
just circling back to dragging brake pad. if you have only one side dragging, guess what - slows down one wheel, pulls car that way.

found the temp chart

dark blue - steel is heated to 555 F
light blue - 567 F
pale blue - 610 F

that's a lot of Fahrenheits to get it to pale blue.
 
  #6  
Old 10-07-10, 10:23 AM
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Wheel Issues - brakes stick again - Appears to be hydraulics

This (i.e., brake dragging) happened a second time last night. However, this time I noticed that the brake pedal much tighter than usual, hardly depressed 1/2 inch. This morning the brakes were dragging and the brake pedeal felt much looser and depressed several inches. That being the case must be a hydraulic problems. Could be air in brakes, bad brake fluid, slave and/or master clyinder. Any ideas.
 
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Old 10-07-10, 12:03 PM
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When is the last time you changed your brake fluid? If it has absorbed a lot of moisture (brake fluid likes water), you could be boiling the moisture due to a sticking caliper piston. A wheel gets warm from highway driving. It should not be hot.

A simple test you can do is put the car in neutral and jack it up placing blocks or something preventing the car from rolling in either direction. Start the engine and press the brake pedal and release it. Shut engine off.

Try rotating the wheels by hand. Compare the force from left to right. They should turn relatively easily. You could also compare back to front. And while you are there, take a look at brake pad thickness.
 
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Old 10-07-10, 12:34 PM
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Embarassed to say how long it has been since the brake fluid had been changed. The wheel rims was almost to hot to touch, and would want to keep there for more than a second or two. Right was worse than left. Rear rims fine. I guessing I should start with changing (and/or cleaning the brake fluid (lines ??). Any one had any experience with this and how I might complete it. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 10-07-10, 12:45 PM
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I operate a track car so I have to change the brake fluid before going to the track. The way I do it is first with a hand pump vacuum device, I remove as much fluid as possible from the brake reservoir. The I refill it. My reservoirs have a dam inside so I cannot get to the fluid for the rear wheels.

I also have an attachment where I can pressure bleed my system. I attach an air compressor to a full reservoir (PRESSURE LESS THAN 10 PSI). Then I go to the calipers, rear first and bleed them quite a bit or until the fluid comes out the same color as fresh fluid. This may necessitate topping off of the reservoir because there is old fluid in it that I could not suck out. Do the one furthest from the master cylinder first which would be the rear passenger side. Your caliper may have more than one drain. It/they is/are located at the high point of the caliper.

Then do the same for the front calipers. Do the passenger side first. If your fluid is really old, it'll look like Coke.

There are devices you can purchase that will suck the fluid out at the caliper as opposed to pressurizing the reservoir.
 
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Old 10-07-10, 03:25 PM
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Kennn,

(Quote) Embarassed to say how long it has been since the brake fluid had been changed.

Donít be embarrassed. I drive a 1966 Chrysler New Yorker, and if Iíve changed the brake fluid 4 times, thatís a lot.

(Quote) The wheel rims was almost to hot to touch, and would want to keep there for more than a second or two.

Failure to change brake fluid wouldnít cause the rims to be that hot to the touch.

(Quote) Right was worse than left. Rear rims fine.

Again, failure to change brake fluid wouldnít cause this.

(Quote) I guessing I should start with changing (and/or cleaning the brake fluid (lines??).

Sorry but your guessing is wrong. For that matter why guess? Guessing (throwing parts at a problem) till itís fixed is a waste of time and money. Why would you think that changing the brake lines (or cleaning them)?

BTW there is no such thing as cleaning brake lines! Would resolve your issue?

(Quote) Any one had any experience with this and how I might complete it.

Well to be honest with you, In my 80 years, Iíve been around some. I say, the best place to start, is to tell us what youíve managed to rule out up to this point. Also answering the questions that continue to go unanswered my help you arrive at a speedy resolution.

(Quote) Thanks in advance.

Youíre welcome.
 
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