88 Toyota Camry strut bolts

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-11-10, 11:05 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 179
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
88 Toyota Camry strut bolts

I was trying to replace the two rear struts on my 88 Toyota Camry s/w and I didn't even really get started before I got stuck. I can't seem to even budge either of the two large, strut to wheel knuckle bolts. I've tried both sides and so far I've broken two socket wrenches and three 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapters (my 19mm sockets are 3/8 and I tried and broke two 3/8 socket wrenches and a 1/2 in with an adapter - breaking three adapters). I put on a long pipe to the end of the wrenches to get the force/tourque I thought I needed but again, I can't even budge the bolts from either side (bolt side or nut side). The bolts are not very rusty. Is there some trick to these or are they just stuck bolts? Should I jack up the knuckle to relieve the pressure? Should they turn from both sides? Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-11-10, 11:40 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,113
Received 3 Votes on 3 Posts
Spray them with a penetrant like PB Blaster...might take a few applications....

And you need a bigger tool. 1/2 drive socket 6 point socket and a breaker bar (not a ratchet). They're probably torqued to 100 ftlbs or so...
 
  #3  
Old 10-11-10, 02:57 PM
mickblock's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 615
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The penatrant is surprisingly effective. I also find that delivering sharp blows on the wench or breaker bar with a small mallet in combination w/ the penetrant works way better than one continuous push.
You're not getting mixed up with the direction are you? Hey it happens. It happened to my cousin one time. Struggled for 10 minutes, broke a socket, panic set in ... yikes. Boy that cousin of mine.

P.S. Don't freak out if you notice that your alignment needs a bit of an adjustment when your all done. It's common.
 
  #4  
Old 10-11-10, 03:12 PM
ASE MASTER's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 558
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The product in the link below makes PB Blaster look like water. Will free those bolts in less than 10 minutes. So you don't go through this again in the future, use anti seize compond on all nuts and bolts when going back together.

Google Deal
 
  #5  
Old 10-11-10, 07:22 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,590
Received 11 Votes on 8 Posts
Originally Posted by Gunguy45 View Post
Spray them with a penetrant like PB Blaster...might take a few applications....

And you need a bigger tool. 1/2 drive socket 6 point socket and a breaker bar (not a ratchet). They're probably torqued to 100 ftlbs or so...
yeah baby!! that's what i'm talking about!! and 3/4 inch cheat pipe, about 2 feet long.. THAT does miracles. also, you could drive to any tire shop, jack the rear wheels, take wheels off, and ask them boys to break them nuts "just loose" with a power tool. so that you can drive back home safely, and your tools will complete the job.

we briefly had a 94 corolla. we were selling it, and one of the "buyers" took her out for a spin, brought back with no clutch. toasted it. so, i had to take driveshafts out to get gear box out, and so on...
driver side center nut came loose ok. pass side one... with 1/2 inch driver and cheat pipe on it, all soaked in penetrating oil, it was still so tight, i lifted the car of jack stands, and it won't budge. sorry, i am rather big and weightlift regularly... anyhow, broke the 1/2 driver. jumping on the cheatpipe and new driver did not do much either. and i already had half the car disassembled. non-driveable. just disconnected the entire hub and took it out with that drive shaft. or things tree shade mechs will tell their grandsons...
 
  #6  
Old 10-12-10, 08:44 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,689
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Here's something I've copied from another forum, haven't tried it myself. Might be worth trying.
====================================

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
 
  #7  
Old 10-12-10, 02:01 PM
ASE MASTER's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 558
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
(Quote) Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*

(Quote) The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

A former girlfriend of mine used to swear by a 50-50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone.

Then came the day she had to change the exhaust manifiold on a 69 Dodge Dart "Slant six".

She tried PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench, but much to her shock and dismay nothing happened

That day she learned fast that only pros use "Kroil".

No broken studs, and 18 minutes later the nuts were off.
 
  #8  
Old 10-12-10, 02:20 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,113
Received 3 Votes on 3 Posts
Everyone has an opinion....about air filters, oil filters, oil, tires, brands, etc, etc, etc....

And you know what they say about opinions....lol...
 
  #9  
Old 10-12-10, 04:17 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Confucius SAY...

If at First you dont succeed, Get a Bigger Hammer

An Oxy acetylene torch doesnt hurt Either.....

Trying to take out suspension parts (Or any "Torqued" high Stress Bolts) with a 3/8 ths Tool is "Suicide"......Simply not gonna happen.....Be lucky you broke the tools and not your KNUCKLES....!!!!
 
  #10  
Old 10-12-10, 04:58 PM
mickblock's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 615
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Why do I come across this post now when only last weekend I restocked up with two big cans of wd? I don't care it has the two position nozzle with the built in plastic red needle/spray option.

If I ever do a manifold I'll have some homebrew or kroil ready.
Good thread. Wonder how the OP made out.


Originally Posted by Unclediezel View Post
An Oxy acetylene torch doesnt hurt Either.....

Trying to take out suspension parts (Or any "Torqued" high Stress Bolts) with a 3/8 ths Tool is "Suicide"......Simply not gonna happen.....Be lucky you broke the tools and not your KNUCKLES....!!!!
True that!
 
  #11  
Old 10-12-10, 06:41 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,590
Received 11 Votes on 8 Posts
you know, got me thinking since yesterday. it should not be much of a trouble to take the whole hub, WITH THE STRUT out, and take it to a pro shop to taste impact wrench, right?
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-10, 07:11 AM
C
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 171
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Go to Harbor Freight Tools, buy;

1) 1/2 inch drive 3 foot breaker bar

something like $9 instead of $40 at sears

2) large 1/2 inch drive deep metric sockets, sizes something like 12mm - 22mm or so

3) buy a punch set.

4) find socket size to fit the nut, use large socket bar to loosen and remove nut --to the left or counterclockwise

5)use punch to hammer/tap out the bolt

my altima had a large hex head bolt at the top of the rear struts. If so get a set of hex head sockets at HFT also

tada
 
  #13  
Old 10-14-10, 05:49 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 179
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm the original poster and I'm going to try the 50/50 mix with a large (1/2 or 3/4 drive) breaker bar sometime this weekend. I'll let everyone know come Monday.

thanks for the input.
 
  #14  
Old 10-14-10, 06:03 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,590
Received 11 Votes on 8 Posts
thank you for your decision to let us know results. have no doubt you'll get 'm bolts!

ehhh, cheat pipe? very inexpensive.... strong medicine.

btw, get a mallet and tap them bolts strong... vibration helps. mallet, not a hammer.
 
  #15  
Old 10-15-10, 07:01 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,689
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
" ...I'm going to try the 50/50 mix..."

Be careful with that Acetone, it is some vile smelling stuff. And I wouldn't smoke around it.

I made the 'brew' today whilst trying to get a U-bolt off a 89 Chevy spring. It did come off, not sure how much the brew had to do with it.

Sure wish I had a larger compressor and an impact wrench.
 
  #16  
Old 10-16-10, 09:23 AM
NEsportsfan's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Insanity
Posts: 358
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Might try to make the brew myself. Does ATF have a shelf life? I have some from about 6 years ago that was never opened for a truck that dropped a drive shaft. Wasn't aware that it punched a large hole in the transmission when it happened until after buying 6 quarts of it.
 
  #17  
Old 10-18-10, 05:37 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 179
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well I tried the mix, 3/4 inch drive and breaker bar - and I stripped out the 19mm socket (my last). Two comments on the 50/50 mix - it didn't really seam to want to "mix" with the acetone floating on top. Also, I tried to apply it with a used paint brush and the paint brush fell apart - I guess the acetone reacted to the plastic brush? I think I'll use the mix idea again, but does anyone have any suggestions about what I can use to apply it in terms of a spray can/bottle - will the acetone melt a normal spray bottle? I'm now working on my fouth weekend doing a "one day project". Such is life....
 
  #18  
Old 10-18-10, 08:24 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 179
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
One final question, on the rear struts, if I ever get them off, do I need to replace the strut mounts also or can I re-use the old ones? I originally figured since the rear struts don't turn that there wouldn't be any need to replace them. but I was told otherwise by a friend. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 10-18-10, 03:18 PM
NEsportsfan's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Insanity
Posts: 358
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I don't think the mounts should need to be replaced unless they are victims of rot or major rust.
 
  #20  
Old 10-19-10, 05:34 PM
mickblock's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 615
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The upper strut mounts?
Take 'em apart, clean and regrease if you can. If you can't take them apart then replace. Don't freak out if they are made of plastic.



You might do yourself a favor and spray paint one of the three or four upper mount bolts to mark it's location on the shock tower (car body) so that you can put the whole assembly back in at the same angle.
During reassembly of the spring, make sure the pig tail ends of the spring wind up located to the same spot on the upper and lower rubber seats so that the upper mount can wind up at the original orientation on the strut assembly itself..

Also maybe paint-mark the spindle at the point where the strut bracket attaches to it in order to give yourself a realignment mark so you can get your camber alignment close to original when you retighten those bolts.
 
  #21  
Old 10-22-10, 08:05 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,689
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
No, it says right on the can it can soften plastic...and it will. I mixed mine in a glass jar with a tin lid yet it melted the gasket. Nasty stuff.

To apply it I'd mix a small amount in a glass jar or tin can and wet a small rag then apply that to the bolt. Wouldn't hurt to wear rubber gloves.

Disposal: I always burn any rags, paper towels etc in an old tin coffee can that has oil stain, linseed oil etc on them. Same here.

If you have any 'brew' left over just put it OUTSIDE in an open container and the acetone will evaporate in a day.

I tried to find the torque numbers and I kept getting a 'malware alert' so I just gave up. Could be you need to move on to the impact wrench to get it off.
 
  #22  
Old 10-22-10, 08:55 PM
mickblock's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 615
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
And i'm over here thinking your talking about the front struts. Most everything still applies. Well half. mmmmaybe less than half... Ok I recommend liquid wrench and you rent a compressor.
 
  #23  
Old 10-22-10, 09:04 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,689
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Any idea what the torque would be on these struts?

I just replaced a U-bolt and 100# was a heck of a pull.
 
  #24  
Old 10-22-10, 09:52 PM
mickblock's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Calumet Township, Indiana
Posts: 615
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That'd have to come from a manual since that kinda stuff can differ significantly even between same model editions.
But I found a write up on a third generation Camry that contains a general walk through with pics. The OP's is a second gen but ...
Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation - View Single Post - DIY - Rear strut R&R
 
  #25  
Old 11-15-10, 06:03 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 179
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Just to update - I ended up going to a local shop and had them break the bolts lose. That did the trick and the rest of the job was realatively easy. I did find one manual that listed the tourque spec for the bolts at 166ft/lbs - no wonder it broke my wrenches and adapters
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: