1989 Rv wont start
#1
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1989 Rv wont start
I have a 1989 tioga with a 460 fuel injected motor I replaced distributor and cap, rotor button ,tfi module both fuel pumps plugs,wires and reset timing . drained old gas and refilled.It ran like a top but will not restart.It turns over but wont start.It doesnt even hit on starting fluid.I do smell a strong odor of fuel but no leaks.
#2
Well, first step would be to verify no spark which is what it sounds like. Pull a plug wire and see if you get a spark to ground. Dead coil would be one possibility. Some fo the pro's will be along with further guidance.
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It ran great before I turned off 60 70mph not a single back fire or miss.I shut it off and it started 10 minutes later as the longer I waited the harder it was to start eventually an hour or 2 between starts later it wouldnt start.
#4
(Quote) I replaced distributor and cap, rotor button ,tfi module
(Quote) I do smell a strong odor of fuel but no leaks.
Above clearly indicate a vehicle that is not getting spark to the plugs.
(Quote) I do smell a strong odor of fuel but no leaks.
Above clearly indicate a vehicle that is not getting spark to the plugs.
#6
I have a 1989 tioga with a 460 fuel injected motor I replaced distributor and cap, rotor button ,tfi module both fuel pumps plugs,wires and reset timing . drained old gas and refilled.It ran like a top but will not restart.It turns over but wont start.It doesnt even hit on starting fluid.I do smell a strong odor of fuel but no leaks.
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It sat for 6 months before that it ran like a top but when I tryed to get started after the 6 months it would turn over and not start.so i did all those things and it started and ran great with no missing or any problems and after I turned it off now its doing the same thing it was doing before not starting or hitting at all.
#8
Hmmm. So that means it is possible it was simply a coincidence, that it started, after you replaced all that stuff. That you MIGHT have a problem that predates your messing with the vehicle.
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It started after I replaced the distributor and didnt run right [misses backfired etc]It started after I replaced the fuel pump and then didnt run right[misses etc] it started after I replaced the tfi module and ran like a top but it wouldnt restart after sitting for a while.This is a multiport injection motor in case I didnt mention that.It wouldnt hit at all before I started replacing these things but it would turn over.
#10
One could discuss exactly what you did, say like the timing - but the fact is you did say it ran like a top - But then wouldn't start up again, even though it ran like a top before that.
Did you try to recheck for gas and spark at that time? Ever try to spray starting fluid in the throttle body? (Note: In case anyone is confused - cars with multiport fuel injection also have a throttle body. Cars with a throttle body only, that delivers the gas, is called throttle body injection. or they say the car has TBI)
Did you try to recheck for gas and spark at that time? Ever try to spray starting fluid in the throttle body? (Note: In case anyone is confused - cars with multiport fuel injection also have a throttle body. Cars with a throttle body only, that delivers the gas, is called throttle body injection. or they say the car has TBI)
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it does have spark but it wont hit on starting fluid and the timing is ok.someone said something about the ignition switch but I,m getting spark wouldnt that eliminate the ignition switch? Someone said it could be the timing chain and the timing may be wrong I.m confused.
#12
If it has spark & the timing is O.K & it won't start on starting fluid, the missing thing is air & compression,, Where are you checking for spark??? The coil or the plugs.. What is the fuel pressure when cranking??? I worked @ a Ford dealer for 20 years & I should be able to walk you thru this no-start issue,,, Roger
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fuel pressure is 36 and 40 checked spark by pulling plug it wont even try to start on starting fluid it didnt have any issues when it was running 3 days ago after I replaced all the parts until I turned it off and it wont start
#15
When you had the plug out, was it flooded?? Try it with the throttle slightly open..Just in case the IAC is stuck closed. Can you verify the dist is in correct & re-check the ignition timing with a timing light (with the SPOUT connector disconnected) @ cranking speed?? Just for a goof, check for codes in the PCM incase it has stories for you... Roger
#21
Multiport fuel injection or throttle body?
Something just is not adding up, if the engine indeed started once, after you did all that work - and it ran like a top to boot - then no longer fires up, even though you have gas, spark and good timing. Sounds like something you think is either there, or right, isn't.
How long has the car sat before you tried to restart it again? Has it ever sat long enough, in case cylinders you have not observed flooded, had a chance to clear out?
Was the timing checked when the car was/is not firing? Did you have to make any adjustments?
Something just is not adding up, if the engine indeed started once, after you did all that work - and it ran like a top to boot - then no longer fires up, even though you have gas, spark and good timing. Sounds like something you think is either there, or right, isn't.
How long has the car sat before you tried to restart it again? Has it ever sat long enough, in case cylinders you have not observed flooded, had a chance to clear out?
Was the timing checked when the car was/is not firing? Did you have to make any adjustments?
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I tryed it this morning a day later. the timing was adjusted while it was firing.no adjustments had to be made after I took it out for last run.Its a multiport
#23
(I lost my post!!!)
Hopefully you do not have prankster neighbor or family member.
Try taking out a couple of the spark plugs you said looked drier/easist to get to, spray plugs with starting fluid plus down in cylinders, quickly reinstall and try to start engine and see if it makes any attempt to fire off.
Hopefully you do not have prankster neighbor or family member.
Try taking out a couple of the spark plugs you said looked drier/easist to get to, spray plugs with starting fluid plus down in cylinders, quickly reinstall and try to start engine and see if it makes any attempt to fire off.
#24
(Quote) ran like a top but will not restart
(Quote) I got spark and fuel pressure
(Quote) fuel pressure is 36 and 40
Rule out blown fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. If those check out rule out: an ECM issue or an engine that has jumped time. Also timing chains do snap. Post the results of a compression test and rule out an excessive back pressure issue.
(Quote) I got spark and fuel pressure
(Quote) fuel pressure is 36 and 40
Rule out blown fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. If those check out rule out: an ECM issue or an engine that has jumped time. Also timing chains do snap. Post the results of a compression test and rule out an excessive back pressure issue.
#27
(Quote) Rotor moved this morning when hit.
Explain the above.
When what hit?
Either the rotor turns or it doesn't
Possible for rotor to turn on engine that has jumped time.
Post the results of a compression test and rule out an excessive back pressure issue.
This issue is starting not to make sense. It's not enough to tell us that you have spark and fuel. We want to hear that you have spark and fuel delivery to ALL THE PLUGS.
Confirm that and let us know.
Explain the above.
When what hit?
Either the rotor turns or it doesn't
Possible for rotor to turn on engine that has jumped time.
Post the results of a compression test and rule out an excessive back pressure issue.
This issue is starting not to make sense. It's not enough to tell us that you have spark and fuel. We want to hear that you have spark and fuel delivery to ALL THE PLUGS.
Confirm that and let us know.
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you said something about the timing chain breaking and as far as getting to all the plugs, this is a ford tioga rv and you have to be a contortionist to check for spark on front plugs it was hard enough to get the plugs in and out blindly.the rotor turns
#30
Putter58,
Successful auto repair is nothing more than applying common sense and logic to resolve an issue. The first thing is to rule out the basics. The basics for starting any internal combustion engine in any vehicle are:
Fuel delivery to all plugs
Spark delivery to all plugs.
Fuel injectors firing (if so equipped)
Proper compression (as per engine) in all cylinders
The absence of an excessive back pressure issue (as per engine)
Out of just shear frustration you’ve changed many parts. Since you’re right back to where you started from (with a non-starting vehicle) all you’ve managed to do is waste time your time and money. Never change a part until it is checked and confirmed defective. Furthermore, if you ever encounter a mechanic, whose first approach to resolving an issue is to change a large number of parts, you should steer clear of that individual, as he is a true amateur.
(Quote) as far as getting to all the plugs, this is a ford tioga rv and you have to be a contortionist to check for spark on front plugs it was hard enough to get the plugs in and out blindly.
I know how difficult your Tioga is to work on. I’m 80 years old, 6 foot 4, and 297 lbs. The last time I worked on a “Tioga” I was 76. At that time it was to do a major tune –up. About two weeks later the rig was back with a hole in the fuel tank. The point is the rig wasn’t built around the plugs, ignition cables, and fuel tank. Yes, working on it was a pain in the ass, but you do what has to be done (and whatever) it takes to get the job done.
After spinning wrenches for 66 years, I’m telling you that you’re missing something. The problem is with the above basics. Not only that, but I feel that some basic issue (either spark delivery or fuel delivery) was impacted by a part (or parts) you installed. Posting any error codes could help with that.
Successful auto repair is nothing more than applying common sense and logic to resolve an issue. The first thing is to rule out the basics. The basics for starting any internal combustion engine in any vehicle are:
Fuel delivery to all plugs
Spark delivery to all plugs.
Fuel injectors firing (if so equipped)
Proper compression (as per engine) in all cylinders
The absence of an excessive back pressure issue (as per engine)
Out of just shear frustration you’ve changed many parts. Since you’re right back to where you started from (with a non-starting vehicle) all you’ve managed to do is waste time your time and money. Never change a part until it is checked and confirmed defective. Furthermore, if you ever encounter a mechanic, whose first approach to resolving an issue is to change a large number of parts, you should steer clear of that individual, as he is a true amateur.
(Quote) as far as getting to all the plugs, this is a ford tioga rv and you have to be a contortionist to check for spark on front plugs it was hard enough to get the plugs in and out blindly.
I know how difficult your Tioga is to work on. I’m 80 years old, 6 foot 4, and 297 lbs. The last time I worked on a “Tioga” I was 76. At that time it was to do a major tune –up. About two weeks later the rig was back with a hole in the fuel tank. The point is the rig wasn’t built around the plugs, ignition cables, and fuel tank. Yes, working on it was a pain in the ass, but you do what has to be done (and whatever) it takes to get the job done.
After spinning wrenches for 66 years, I’m telling you that you’re missing something. The problem is with the above basics. Not only that, but I feel that some basic issue (either spark delivery or fuel delivery) was impacted by a part (or parts) you installed. Posting any error codes could help with that.
#32
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If it isnt a strong spark which I will look at again what is your suggestion? Although it was running right just before this how would the spark be affected.What would cause the spark to change all of a sudden?
#33
Putter,
Like I said.
Successful auto repair is nothing more than applying common sense and logic to resolve an issue.
(Question) What would cause the spark to change all of a sudden?
Common sense and logic dictate that the:
Well spark comes from the battery right?
You’ve been trying for how long to start this RV?
At any time, did it ever occur to you that the spark is weak, because the battery is run down from all your attempts to get the RV started?
Like I said.
Successful auto repair is nothing more than applying common sense and logic to resolve an issue.
(Question) What would cause the spark to change all of a sudden?
Common sense and logic dictate that the:
Well spark comes from the battery right?
You’ve been trying for how long to start this RV?
At any time, did it ever occur to you that the spark is weak, because the battery is run down from all your attempts to get the RV started?
#35
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the battery is fully charged.I recharge it when needed.[its less than a year old]I rechecked the timing which a friend had done for me due to my poor eye site and it looks to be a tooth off I loosened the distributor and it would only go so far before the tfi module couldnt go any farther and I think it has to go a little past that therefore that will be my next step.
#36
Between not seeing good and putting a distributor back in and not carefully noting how it was EXACTLY positioned before doing the work, can then raise question marks later when you have a problem like you are having.
It be pretty obvious if it was off a tooth if you had noted the position of the distributor before the distributor was ever touched, and knew that the rotor was pointed at #1 tower when crank was at TDC. But now that it has been moved, you have nothing to go by.
Now it is going to be hard to know where it is at, unless you also make sure the valves are opening and closing in the correct position in relation to the crank. That would require exposing the valvetrain.
I wonder if you can find out from Ford if they can tell you how that distributor should normally be pointing when the timing is correct. Make sure that if you talk to someone, telling them you have a 460, that they also know it is in the RV, because that might be a different version of the 460 (maybe). I was able to do that type of check by comparing my Dodge Spirit's 2.5L engine with 2 others, so I then could tell mine was right.
It be pretty obvious if it was off a tooth if you had noted the position of the distributor before the distributor was ever touched, and knew that the rotor was pointed at #1 tower when crank was at TDC. But now that it has been moved, you have nothing to go by.
Now it is going to be hard to know where it is at, unless you also make sure the valves are opening and closing in the correct position in relation to the crank. That would require exposing the valvetrain.
I wonder if you can find out from Ford if they can tell you how that distributor should normally be pointing when the timing is correct. Make sure that if you talk to someone, telling them you have a 460, that they also know it is in the RV, because that might be a different version of the 460 (maybe). I was able to do that type of check by comparing my Dodge Spirit's 2.5L engine with 2 others, so I then could tell mine was right.
#37
Putter,
(Quote) rechecked the timing which a friend had done for me due to my poor eye site and it looks to be a tooth off.
(Quote) and I think it has to go a little past that therefore that will be my next step.
Well, like I said.
Back to Basics!!!
A spark issue!!!
Why I am not surprised????
(Quote) I loosened the distributor and it would only go so far before the tfi module couldn’t go any farther.
Well, let’s see if we can’t figure out why the distributor won’t go any further???
Would like to help you,
However “Gun Guy”
Group Moderator, feels I’m being too hard on you. He wants me to (and I quote)
“Cut you some slack”.
So I will.
I‘m leaving you in the hands of my very esteemed and accomplished colleague “Ecman51”.
Best of luck
(Quote) rechecked the timing which a friend had done for me due to my poor eye site and it looks to be a tooth off.
(Quote) and I think it has to go a little past that therefore that will be my next step.
Well, like I said.
Back to Basics!!!
A spark issue!!!
Why I am not surprised????
(Quote) I loosened the distributor and it would only go so far before the tfi module couldn’t go any farther.
Well, let’s see if we can’t figure out why the distributor won’t go any further???
Would like to help you,
However “Gun Guy”
Group Moderator, feels I’m being too hard on you. He wants me to (and I quote)
“Cut you some slack”.
So I will.
I‘m leaving you in the hands of my very esteemed and accomplished colleague “Ecman51”.
Best of luck
Last edited by ASE MASTER; 10-26-10 at 01:33 PM.
#38
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I'm relaying to you everything a mechanic did to my rv and you cant be to hard on me lol I 'm just looking for an answer,what little I know is common sense but apparently the mechanic I hired has none.the tfi module cant go any farther due to an obstruction left of the distributor therefore it looks as though the distributor needs to be moved a tooth maybe 2 to the right in order to make room to turn it does that make sense.It runs where its at but apparently not like it should according to the new mechanic I hired,he is going to reset it tomorrow
#39
Putter,
I’m a Marine.
Everything you’ve ever heard about us is true.
Did you really think I’d hang you out to dry like that?
Semper Fidelis (Always Faithful).
Is what we live by.
The sissy, *****, wimpy crap of cutting you some slack is not going to get your RV running.
You’re in over your head buddy.
Post your zip code and I may be able to recommend someone who can help you.
GOD BLESS AMERICA
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS
CLING TO YOUR BIBLE
CLING TO YOUR GUN
Sam
I’m a Marine.
Everything you’ve ever heard about us is true.
Did you really think I’d hang you out to dry like that?
Semper Fidelis (Always Faithful).
Is what we live by.
The sissy, *****, wimpy crap of cutting you some slack is not going to get your RV running.
You’re in over your head buddy.
Post your zip code and I may be able to recommend someone who can help you.
GOD BLESS AMERICA
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS
CLING TO YOUR BIBLE
CLING TO YOUR GUN
Sam