Fumes coming in via vents


Old 12-02-10, 01:34 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: United States
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Fumes coming in via vents

I too am getting oil fumes coming back into my car via the vents, and I don't know why. This car is a 1998, Jetta, 2.0, Wolfsburg edition. I've maintained the car very well over the years, but it's this fume that's driving me crazy. I been told that there is no cabin filter and there is no PVC valve. There doesn't appear to be any leaks that are noticeable. Does anyone know this engine well enough recommend what I should look for or do to eliminate this fume. It is especially noticeable when using the heater or A/C.
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Old 12-05-10, 05:26 AM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 217
You could have a slight oil leak that is getting onto your exhaust. The fumes are being picked up by the blower.
Old 12-05-10, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,302
anyone who considers oil leak stop should see what engine looks like with valve cover removed after it was used. in coal industry and in steel manufacturing there's a thing called schlaque, i hope i spelled it right. basically, looks like caked asphalt. grainy crap everywhere.

as a proud - ex - owner of a Taurus, here's my word for you. you have bent oil pan. not the whole entire pan, but the sealing edge. most likely, right on the corners. i have been through this. there's no cure for it. they stamp it out of cheap, thin steel to save on money, and kinks easily. all you accomplish trying to tighten the bolts is you kink it worse, creating an iffing wave of tight-loose spots.

also, gaskets will break on the corners.

i have been through this so many times, i am tired of it. simple mentioning of this makes me ill.

if you still wish to mess with this, YOU (as THEY use power tools on them bolts) need to take it off, either replace pan, clean engine block gasket seat perfectly, resurface it flat, removing - flat - all the little nixes and kinks, and reinstall pan, using BLACK RUBBER gasket, not cork ones, and ton of heavy duty oil resistant gasket sealer. let it sit overnight and only THEN add oil and run engine.

bolts must be handtight, esp corner ones. or gasket will crack. i have no idea how many neewtons it should be, but i am very gentle on them.

if you want to reuse old pan, you will need to get it upside down on something very smooth and perfectly flat, like a piece of glass, and locate high points, by shining light between pan and glass. then, you can try fine art of hammering them out and trying to make it all flat again. which it will warp again later anyway, because of the - yes, cheap metal they use to make them pans.

good luck.
Old 12-05-10, 08:49 AM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 217
Not overtightening is really important. I have a car that has an aluminum oil pan with a machined surface. The gasket is a 1/4 inch rubbery material with aluminum inserts in each hole (almost 30 of them). The aluminum inserts (hollow cylinders through which each bolt must pass) are just slightly shorter than the rubbery gasket is thick. That way you just tighten until you get metal to metal contact. Overtightening is thus prevented. It does not leak. With this car you have to remove the cross member (supporting the engine from above) plus remove exhaust pieces to get the pan off so you don't want to do the job twice.

I have another car that has machined aluminum valve covers but uses a paper-type gasket. It is very easy to overtighten and mess up the seal. I have done it. To seal it after tightening, I fill the space between the valve cover and block with gasket making material applying it with my finger. I don't like to get the gasket making material on the gasket surfaces because it has a tendency to allow the gasket to slip and squish out at corners. This works for me. All surfaces are thoroughly cleaned with acetone or some other solvent before assembly.
Old 12-05-10, 08:59 AM
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Moderator's note: Moved this to a new thread rather than continuing to add on to a 7 year old one.

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