1991 Buick Century Power Windows

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  #1  
Old 03-12-11, 05:34 PM
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1991 Buick Century Power Windows

My wife's aunt has a 1991 Buick Century with power windows. The two in front don't work. She took it to a shop and they replaced one of the motors and when it still didn't work told her the switch was bad but they couldn't find a new one.

I looked at it today and determined that tha driver side switch has one hot wire and 2 grounds that go to it. One ground for the front and another for the rear. The ground wire or the front windows is not grounded. We verified this is the problem by running a temp wire from the battery to the connection on the switch and it works fine.

I'm having trouble finding the wire under the dash...the point where it passes from the door to inside is covered by a plastic piece, sound proofing, etc. I would think there's a ground buss somewhere under there but hate to take the whole dash apart to find it. Does anyone know where this and other ground wires go to under the dash?

Thanks,
Jim
 
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Old 03-12-11, 08:54 PM
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well, ground is ground, right? why don't you simply run a ground wire from somewhere in the car, proper gauge, through that little rubber boot you have in the door? though i seriously do not understand, why any metal part in the door panel is NOT grounding? all modern cars are body ground negative. you can have ground from any exposed metal piece hence, my favorites being seat rail bolts.
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-11, 08:16 PM
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Thanks ukrbyk .

I thought of that but before I made a major job of it I thought I'd look for an easy answer. My Father-in-Law went to the local dealership and was told all the grounds on that car run to a block under the seat. So it sounds like you were on the right track. The other option I'm considering is to simply tie the ground for the front windows to the one for the back. Unless you roll all 4 up or down at the same time I doubt it would hurt.

Thanks again for the reply.
 
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Old 03-17-11, 03:47 PM
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guy, keep it simple. if it's a ground negative body vehicle, any exposed metal chassis area is a ground. simply run a patch from a known well working ground, preferably, in the door, so that you do not need to deal with long wires. if you have spare battery, get is close to the door, remove door trim, pull the plug out for that window, and run positive to positive on the plug. then, simply, run a jumper to any exposed metal area/part/bolt inside the door panel. if the motor goes, you got your ground area and run jumper wire to it. if it's not doable for any reasons, run longer jumper wire to a seat mounting bolt on the same side. then have that wire hidden underneath carpet or door jam trim.
 
  #5  
Old 03-17-11, 07:59 PM
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P/w

It is quite common for wires to break where they flex as the door is opened and closed. Just a thought.
 
  #6  
Old 03-18-11, 09:28 PM
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I have a "similar" problem with my 1993 Century - the driver side electric window only opens about 1/4 the way down, then I get this loud click/clanking sound and the window jumps up a quarter inch or so. The window does roll back up though. Sounds to me like a tooth on a plastic gear somewhere has broken. The question is, are parts still available for these "older" Buicks?
 
  #7  
Old 07-12-11, 02:18 PM
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And the answers are:

The clack-clack-clack was caused by a series of broken teeth INSIDE the sprocket drive housing (part of the regulator motor assembly).

Parts are available for older Buicks. I bought a window regulator motor assembly at O'Reilly Auto for about $55. Worked fine on my 1993 Century.
 
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