2002 Olds Intrigue Oil Filter Removal

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  #1  
Old 03-13-11, 10:52 AM
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2002 Olds Intrigue Oil Filter Removal

Hello All,

I've searched the archive and find no guidance I have contacted various Olds dealers in three states and each manager or technician offers a different method for removing the oil filter container! Last year I finally discovered a reference for one of the many, available fluted removal tools that fits a 3/8 drive handle. NO DICE. It would not hold, returned it. I hope I never meet the gang that designed this application. After 40 years of canister oil filters and band wrenches! Geeze!

How about any of you members? You just chew at it with channel locks? I can't get a band wrench on it because of the lack of clearance between it and the bottom of the engine case. Help is graciously appreciated.

John
 
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  #2  
Old 03-13-11, 01:10 PM
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PM-d you.
for all:

Maintenance: Aurora "Classic" oil change writeup
https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/t...&page=6&#51832
c/p credit brando

First of all, here are some specifications:

Fluid Capacity:
With the change of filter, 6.5 quarts of oil is required. 5W-30 is the recommended engine oil viscosity.

Torque Specifications:
Oil Filter Canister - 18 lb ft (25 N*m)
Drain Plug - 15 lb ft (20 N*m)


You'll need a special type of socket to remove the canister, I happened to have one laying around here when I got my intrigue (Coincidence?), so it's not really a proprietary type of socket (not necessary to buy from GM).

The Kentmoore tool that GM recommends is the J 29142.
Usually expensive! and not easy to find.

The tool I am using is made by a company called CTA Tools, RiteFit, model A250. Not sure of other brands, but this should help you pick out an oil filter socket at the local auto parts store.
If they don't carry the CTA Tools RiteFit brand, the specifications of the socket are:
Diameter: 74/76mm No. Flutes: 15

Here's a link if you can't find one local: RiteFit A250 Auto Parts and Automotive Tools



Resetting the change oil light, the gas pedal procedure is what works for me. Turn ignition to on position, don't crank it. Press gas pedal fully 3 times within 5 seconds of turning the ignition to the on position. You'll see the change oil light start to flash and that means it is resetting, you can turn the ignition off, and start the engine up. It should turn the light off. Do this procedure after every oil change, even if the light isn't on. Otherwise the "oil life monitor" will still be stuck on your last oil change and you'll have the inconvenience of the oil light turning on when it shouldn't.

Here's what GM lists for resetting the light:
Quote:
1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds.
3. If the CHANGE OIL light flashes, the system is resetting.
4. Turn the key to OFF after the light has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL light comes back on, the engine oil life system did not reset. Repeat the procedure.


I think that covers most of it...any more questions feel free to ask.

TOC Admin
Brando
 
  #3  
Old 03-15-11, 07:15 AM
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I don't know about all these rich people who buy special tools but here is link

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

This is how I do them. The manifold will not allow you back it all the way out but will allow you to crack the lid loose. I actually cut the depth of my socket in half. Also if you buy the wrench that size at Sears it works great to.
 
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Old 03-15-11, 04:08 PM
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Howdy Brando! Great information. I realize it's not a proprietary item. THAT I believe is the travesty! Several dealers have told me GM never designed a tool to service this component. To my knowledge, they have yet to support their dealer network in this regard.

Imagine my dismay. The oil filter tool works well, I'm sure on a canister filter. Alas, we have a "jar" screwed into the bottom of the engine. Threads on outside of the jar. Inside the plastic jar is a disposable, element filter. Rubber and metal on each end with paper in between. I drop it into the holder (jar) and the jar screws back up into the bottom of the aluminum engine. Sorry, no pictures, don't know how to do that here. The oil filter assembly on our motor is nothing I've see on an American or Japanese made passenger automobile. I've been changing oil on AMC brand autos, Hondas and GMCs for 40+ years. This 2002 Intrigue is just nuts.

They were doing it right on the Olds Aurora. For some reason the engine manufacturer changed. The tool you described is what I bought and I took it back. It will not hold onto the plastic jar. It just spins over it.

I wanted to check to see if there had been any developments. As I said, I've had GM technicians tell then just reef on it with channel locks. "whatever I can get a grip with." I am very grateful for the pictures you sent. Thanks again.

John
 
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Old 03-15-11, 04:22 PM
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oh, the cartridge filter, aye, mate? like in old Mercedes, hah? why do you think they named it Intrigue?

does this sound right to you:

Not too hard, but you have to be creative or buy a special tool. At the bottom of the oil pan there is a large black circular plastic plug. All you have to do is unscrew this (be careful about the oil that will come out when you get it out). You should drain the oil first, of course, but you will still have oil come out when you pull that plastic plug, just like you do when you pull a normal oil filter.

The paper element sits inside that plastic plug. Clean everything off, put the new filter inside the plastic plug, then screw the plastic plug back in.

I've used several methods to get the plastic plug out. I can put two screw drivers in the holes in the plug, then use a prybar between the two screwdrivers to unscrew the plug. I have also put two bolts in a peice of wood or metat that are spaced appropriately to fit in the holes in the bottom of the plug

Read more: Answers.com - How do you change oil filter on 2000 oldsmobile intrigue


it also sounds like needle nose pliers could work on it.
 
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Old 03-15-11, 04:25 PM
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pictures, aye!

go to photobucket. have your photo taken, camera connected to computer, then click on browse button in photobucket/locate your picture/upload/resize it to maybe 600x800, and copy paste image code here. photobucket is official site for this forum.
 
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Old 03-15-11, 06:26 PM
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If you are talking about the oil filter like this that boredatwork posted then its a socket.

http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/pdf/Violations/cdl_chart.pdf

I have the 2.2l olds Alero and this is how it is. Me being a plumber and not having a socket that big I had to think of what to use, because I was not going to buy something.

What do I use? I use my trusty basin wrench. Hey it works!!!!!!



Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-16-11, 07:17 PM
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>>>I have also put two bolts in a piece of wood or metal that are spaced appropriately to fit in the holes in the bottom of the plug<<<

Bang! As soon as I finish this, I'm off to pull some graph paper to make impressions for transfer! Super, Thanks!

The needle nose didn't provide sufficient leverage. Bled like a stuck pig from the pinch... Hurting again just typing about it! LOL! Pushing the noses of the jaws of channel locks almost works, but because they don't fit snug + lying on my back and not able to get my elbows above my chest, I can't muster sufficient leverage to break it free. I use the noses of the channel locks to turn it back IN.

I don't think my basin wrench will spread enough. I'm going to measure it though and also ensure I can get enough leverage to break the seal when I'm on my back, underneath the car.

Thank ukrbyk and Mike NJ. (ya know, sandwich shops out in Midwest called Jersey Mike's...)
 
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Old 03-16-11, 07:33 PM
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(ya know, sandwich shops out in Midwest called Jersey Mike's...)
We got them here in "Jersey" of course.


Hey just a note: Is this a regular oil filter, and not the cartridge type?

The filter on the Kia I had was not accessable. I could not figure out how to get it off. There was all kinds of stuff blocking it. I looked all around and saw greasy finger prints behind the front wheel. I had to remove two clips that hold the wheel well shroud. Low and behold there was the filter in the wide open. Good thing the service guys never wiped it. I had free oil changes for like 3 yrs so I never did it.

Just a thought.

Mike NJ
 
  #10  
Old 03-16-11, 07:42 PM
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Here's the link ..... First time through Photobucket. Fingers crossed

Pictures by Photospigot - Photobucket
 
  #11  
Old 03-16-11, 07:45 PM
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Worked out on my end. Hope you others can see it. Didn't think it would work quite like that..... John
 
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Old 03-16-11, 07:55 PM
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Appreciate that thought too, Mike. I have never thought it a regular oil filter. There is a paper element that I believe can meet the definition of cartridge because it's removable and contained inside the plastic holder. And the holder is about the size of a 8oz jelly jar. The picture is of what I'll call the bottom of the container.

There are large threads on the outside (not visible) and two ring seals in the middle to seal the container as it's screwed back in. In Six months or so, I'll take the time to clean it and photograph it. There may be a depiction of it at gmpartsdirect........ If you can figure out what it's called. !!

John
 
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Old 03-16-11, 08:14 PM
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Old 03-16-11, 08:49 PM
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Hi Mike.

Tried it. 15 flats! I can presume two things. The tolerances of the manufacturers are significant, or me and the dealer mechanics have worn the edges beyond those tolerances. The prescribed filter wrench would not hold in order to break the seal; just thumped and bumped over the ridges. Very disappointing.

John
 
  #15  
Old 03-16-11, 09:25 PM
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Can't say I've done one of these. But, perhaps a 4 wheel drive spindle nut socket or an adjustable spanner wrench would work.
 
  #16  
Old 03-17-11, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by That Much View Post
Hello All,

I've searched the archive and find no guidance I have contacted various Olds dealers in three states and each manager or technician offers a different method for removing the oil filter container! Last year I finally discovered a reference for one of the many, available fluted removal tools that fits a 3/8 drive handle. NO DICE. It would not hold, returned it. I hope I never meet the gang that designed this application. After 40 years of canister oil filters and band wrenches! Geeze!

How about any of you members? You just chew at it with channel locks? I can't get a band wrench on it because of the lack of clearance between it and the bottom of the engine case. Help is graciously appreciated.

John
Is this car new to you? How did you change the filter in the past? I would be looking for an adapter to convert it to a spin-on filter.
 
  #17  
Old 03-17-11, 04:36 PM
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well, there are needle nose pliers, and needle nose pliers, but let's not worry about then. i am inclined to say that large crescent wrench would have done the job, but i am a very strong guy, so what's good for me, not necessarily is good for someone else.

here's a tool for you. actually, have one in my garage, as i had all kinds of oil filters through our cars history so far:

Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648659 Spider Oil Filter Wrench: Automotive

if i were you, i'd have those plastic caps removed before using it. it takes some getting used to before you use it. you have to almost "c-o-c-k it up" with one hand, so that jaws grab the filter good. then, one hand has to secure at least one jaw on the filter with index finger and thumb pushing it up against it, while the other hand turns 3/8 socket wrench counterclockwise. as soon as you take slack out of the jaws, you can let go off the filter and only use one hand on the wrench.

btw, you post image code, not image link. image code opens image right in the message body, without need to go through several more pages.
 
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Old 03-27-11, 06:03 PM
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>>>Is this car new to you? How did you change the filter in the past? I would be looking for an adapter to convert it to a spin-on filter.<<<<

Sorry for the delay, been a lot going on here. Been dealing with this since car was new. I bought a ratcheting device from sears that is rectangular. It's extremely difficult to use because of the space GM provided to adapt a tool. It takes much time because I can barely make a turn. I just lay there and work at it. It is extremely frustrating. Interesting thought of adapting to a canister filter. Wonder how far below the engine line it would extend. Thanks for the note. John
 
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Old 03-27-11, 06:06 PM
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Thank you for the tip regarding the spider wrench. Just might work. Thanks. John
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-11, 09:17 AM
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That Much,

The oil filter in your particular car is an odd size. Any aftermarket cup wrench won't grip the base of the filter correctly, and is going to slip. You need a VEHICLE SPECIFIC cup wrench. Vehicle specific means that it is made specifically for your vehicle. You can buy such a wrench from the parts department at you dearlership, for around $10.00.

Kind Regards
Diane
 
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