1989 Justy idles fine but will not rev

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  #1  
Old 07-17-11, 10:19 AM
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1989 Justy idles fine but will not rev

It now has a new coil, cam position sensor, pickup, cap rotor, and tried a different ECU (ignition mod) which does the same thing. Is it possible that the timing belt is off? (out of time)

With an inductive pickup light on any plug wire the light works fine while engine is idling. Give it some gas and it barely runs and the timing light quits. It has a carb and no TPS.

I have no hair left so please help.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-17-11, 11:45 AM
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If the timing belt were off, it wouldn't run, period. Now the timing belt could have jumped cogs, although it isn't common. With an inductive pickup light on the #1 plug, does it give you the proper timing at the crank marks? Have you set the timing?
 
  #3  
Old 07-17-11, 03:33 PM
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Carb eh.
Make sure the accelerator pump is working
With engine off and choke forced open look down the throtle body and pump the accelerator. Should see a good shot of fuel come out. If not that look for vacuum leaks.Got a vacuum gauge? What about fuel capacity. Test for good flow by pumping into a bucket.
Start with the pump. I think its that.
 
  #4  
Old 07-18-13, 10:19 PM
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OK, I'm back on it again thinking it's the pickup (ignition control module) in the distributor.Not fuel as I spray gas in the carb and try to rev it up at the same time and that makes no difference. I timed it yes. Yes if the timing belt was off it wouldn't run, I meant that the timing belt was out of time maybe... Sorry for saying that wrong.

Thanks for your help.

Sorry for taking so long to reply, I had to walk away for a while. Didn't think it would be two years, but I'm ready for another go at it.

I checked voltage at the ignitor and it drops when I try to rev it. Shouldn't it increase?
 
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Old 07-18-13, 10:36 PM
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How does the distributor make advance? When I had replaced Lean Burn ignition which doesn't use vacuum advance with Electronic Ignition which does use vacuum advance, but hadn't installed a vacuum advance distributor, it ran similar to what you describe in your car. Obviously entirely different manufacturers, but if there's something broken in the distributor that's supposed to advance the spark then it may behave as if there's no advance.
 
  #6  
Old 07-18-13, 10:49 PM
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No vacuum on this dist. I agree that it is acting as though it isn't advancing. I thought the control module is what determined that by increasing the voltage to the ignitor. Or at least would make it fire faster.... Not sure about the advancing, but I will take the cap off tomorrow, if I get time, and see if there is something in there to advance it.
 
  #7  
Old 07-19-13, 06:42 AM
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No mechanical advance in the distributer. Even though the control module is new, I think it is a bad one. I might just have to spend the $30 and get another one.
 
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Old 07-19-13, 08:00 PM
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you sir have weak spark. if you carfully take a plug wire and stick a screwdriver in the end and hold the plastic handle while hovering the shaft of the screwdriver over metal ground. have some one else crank the engine over, the spark should be blue and jump atlaeast 1 1/2 inch. whats happening is the compression is blowing out the spark or causing it to find another path(why the timing light stops flashing). test before and after the distibutor, if you have good spark at the coil but not at the plug then some where in the middle its jumping.
 
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Old 07-21-13, 09:36 AM
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Spark is yellowish for the length of it. Right where it hits the ground it's blue. That is the same for at the end of the plug wire and the coil wire before the dist.
So I should get another coil?
 
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Old 07-21-13, 04:33 PM
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how far does the spark jump? and another test of weak spark is to retard the timing.it will run "better" due to less compression at the time of spark.
 
  #11  
Old 07-21-13, 10:03 PM
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Spark jumps around two inches. It's timed where it runs best. Any other position on the timing and it will die when pressing the gas pedal.
 
  #12  
Old 07-22-13, 11:15 PM
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You said spark dies when you try and rev it... Does it die or does it get weak? Have you checked all your grounds? Grounding is such a black magic, if one terminal is corroded and not visible it will cause all sorts of issues.

What type of fuel pump setup are the justy's? These cars carbureted??
 
  #13  
Old 07-30-13, 09:50 PM
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Thanks for all your input. I was hoping some one could tell me what the problem was. Some thing like "I ran into that problem and this is what fixed my problem", or simply "this is what's going on and here is how you fix it". I guess that's just the nature of mechanicing.... I have bought new parts that where bad so I guess I will have to replace parts that have already been replaced until it fixes the problem.
 
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Old 07-30-13, 10:15 PM
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Did you also replace the high tension wires, especially coming out of the coil? Fuel filter?
 
  #15  
Old 08-01-13, 06:26 AM
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New plug and coil wires. How would the fuel filter (or any thing fuel related) make the timing light quit working?
 
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Old 08-17-13, 05:55 AM
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Found a new igniter with coil and replaced it. Ran the same with new. Bought a new pickup and when I went to replace it found a bushing/spacer behind the lower screw of the metal plate that is opposite of the pickup in the distributer. I put it back together (didn't replace the pickup) without that bushing/spacer and it now revs up, but acts like it isn't advancing (miss firing) and I still have to have the timing retarded as far as I can. Could some one tell me how the advance works in this distributer? I can't get any thing to move and nothing is adjustable that I could see. No vacuum advance.
 
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Old 08-17-13, 06:48 AM
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I have no idea on the Justy, but I used to rebuild British sports cars and they invariably used centrifugal advance rather than vacuum. I had a similar problem on one. Took the distributor off and discovered the centrifugal plates had rust on them to the extent they would not throw out with revs. Cleaned them up and it worked just fine. Worth a shot.
 
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Old 08-21-13, 07:23 AM
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I know this is a late entry but I just read it. Why did you start doing the ignition repairs/ replacement. Did the car run better prior to the project or was it not running well and that's why you started replacing stuff. It is a 1 liter or 61 cubic inch 3 cylinder according to Wiki as I have never heard of it until now but it is still an internal combustion engine so the rules are the same. If the exhaust were restricted it could well idle and not run at speed as there would be no way for the spent gas to escape so the question to start is why did you start?
 
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