car battery charger/starter question regarding minimum amperage work for me??

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  #1  
Old 09-02-11, 12:03 AM
Visser's Avatar
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car battery charger/starter question regarding minimum amperage work for me??

Hi all,

I had the great priviledge of owning a Dayton battery charger/starter upright model on wheels and the starting setting was 250 AMPs. (which obviously started my dead car batteries with no problem). It just died and if I could afford it, I would buy another just like it. But I can't and I'd like to shop for a replacement in the price category that provides the amount of amperage I need to start a dead car battery on the occasion that I might need to. I'm looking at chargers/starters in the range of 2/10/55 Amp category, the 55 AMPs being what's advertised to start a dead battery. I obviously know that 250 AMPs worked for every occasion that I needed to start a dead battery for years, but I now would like to ask those who know- how do I determine how much amperage for starting I need in a charger/starter?? (Or do I trust 55 AMPs is plenty for starting any regular car battery??).

I do not own trucks, boats, or farm equipment, so my need is for regular type passenger cars. I think my biggest battery is a 750 CCA battery.

Appreciate any advice!

Visser
 
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  #3  
Old 09-02-11, 05:21 AM
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What is your budget? You might find a good one used on Craigslist.
 
  #4  
Old 09-02-11, 05:47 AM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: North Central Indiana
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In your heart you know the 55 wont do what the 250 will. I have both and if you want to hook up and start the 55 wont do it. My big one is a Silver Beauty and I have sent it back to the factory for a rebuild twice in the last 40 years, you might explore this.
 
  #5  
Old 09-02-11, 06:13 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canada (near The Motor City)
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Fix the Dayton................
 
  #6  
Old 09-02-11, 10:27 AM
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Appreciate the mention to fix it!! Any thoughts on how to begin? (Besdes factry)

Thanks for the replies all!

My initial thought was to have it looked at to have it fixed if possible, but I couldn't think of where to begin. Who would I take it to? ...an electrician, or mechanic?? Not sure. Any thoughts on where to post in this forum for suggestions to get it fixed if I'm not in the right place right now? I really should have it fixed if it can be, I originally thought all would say it had to be replaced if I described what happened.

It worked fine for years, then one day when I went to turn it on, I heard an odd hummm, and smoke started coming out of the unit immediately, and it had a burning smell, (obviously). I shut it down and unplugged it immediately. Opened the unit expecting to see obvious damage- burnt wires or melted switches or something- nothing- no evidence of anything malfunctioning. I thought maybe a selector dial broke, like it might be stuck between two settings, thus causing it to be confused and cause an electrical backlash, but dial switches feel okay.

I'll start by contacting Dayton, but would appreciate any other thoughts on who could repair it locally.

Thanks,

Visser
 
  #7  
Old 09-02-11, 01:54 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canada (near The Motor City)
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Originally Posted by Visser View Post
Thanks for the replies all!

My initial thought was to have it looked at to have it fixed if possible, but I couldn't think of where to begin. Who would I take it to? ...an electrician, or mechanic?? Not sure. Any thoughts on where to post in this forum for suggestions to get it fixed if I'm not in the right place right now? I really should have it fixed if it can be, I originally thought all would say it had to be replaced if I described what happened.

It worked fine for years, then one day when I went to turn it on, I heard an odd hummm, and smoke started coming out of the unit immediately, and it had a burning smell, (obviously). I shut it down and unplugged it immediately. Opened the unit expecting to see obvious damage- burnt wires or melted switches or something- nothing- no evidence of anything malfunctioning. I thought maybe a selector dial broke, like it might be stuck between two settings, thus causing it to be confused and cause an electrical backlash, but dial switches feel okay.

I'll start by contacting Dayton, but would appreciate any other thoughts on who could repair it locally.

Thanks,

Visser
Sounds like a rectifier shorted. A shorted selenium rectifier would have stunk the joint up.
Yes, contact the company or ask the local retailer (NAPA, AutoZone etc) who fixes their chargers.
 
  #8  
Old 09-02-11, 03:04 PM
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Parts distributors is a good suggestion. Also anyone rebuilding alternators, electric motors or any independent looking garage operations. The old tradition was to stay in business you always had to fix everything you owned. It could be toast, but as 2 grand said, it could be something easily replaced.

Bud
 
  #9  
Old 09-02-11, 07:35 PM
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Thanks for the great advice

Appreciate the suggestions on where to go to get it it fixed if possible. As you both mentioned it's worth checking that out first before deciding it's shot!

2Grand, thanks for initially pointing me in the right direction. Much appreciated!

Visser
 
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