2004 Rendezvous AWD 3.4L O2 sensor

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  #1  
Old 09-07-11, 11:37 AM
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2004 Rendezvous AWD 3.4L O2 sensor

I am at 75000 miles and I think I need to replace the O2 sensor (seems simple). Is it as easy as unplug and unbolt, then plug in new O2 and bolt in other side? Or are there things that I am missing on installation. Will I have to reset the computer by disconnecting the positive terminal, then re-attaching it to the battery?
 
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  #2  
Old 09-07-11, 12:22 PM
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Usually a O2 sensor is located along the exhaust pipe, almost always before the catalytic converter. Depending on the make, model, and year of car, sometimes you need a "special tool", but at least on older cars you can get it off with the appropriated size wrench.

From O2 sensors that I've seen and dealt, on older cars, are simple to replace and just usually hard to get to due to cramp spaces. Once it's removed from the exhaust, it should simply attached to another wire like a normal sensor, and simply disconnect it and replace!

I say this through experience through older cars, not 2004 models, so I may be mistaken, but an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor haha, so they should still be the same!
 
  #3  
Old 09-07-11, 12:52 PM
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1.you think or you know? does it throw O2 sensor code?
2. you have V6. you have at least 3, prolly 4 sensors: 2 upstream, in each exhaust manifold, as you most likely have 2 of them; prolly at least one past catalytic converter, maybe one before it and one past it, or downstream. if i did not confuse the streams.
3. you most likely have transverse positioned engine. if that's the case, you should look down the front exhaust manifold and see that sensor. now, one in the back, crammed against firewall, is a different story.
4. you do not unplug O2 sensors. you have 2 choices: rent or buy O2 sensor socket; if you have enough clearance, channel locks or vise grip works also. in all cases, you have to pre-soak threads with Quick Wrench or equivalent, to break rust and oxidation.
5. my experience with buying aftermarket sensors (they are about 40% MORE DEALERSHIP) is to have sensor + harness removed, then taken to a parts store, for direct match. I have replaced several of them over the years, and almost every time something does not match unless you have it compared at the store.
6. did you run error codes to confirm O2 problem?
7. say, you replaced the sensor. now, you want to reset ECM, so that it can re-learn the new sensor. LOCATE ECM FUSE AND PULL IT OUT for maybe 15-30 minutes. does the job and you do not need to redo all your vehicle settings.
 
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Old 09-07-11, 01:42 PM
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I see that there is one behind the catalytic converter. Did not know there were others. I had a check engine light a couple of weeks ago. Replaced pcv valve (sluggish sounding when shooked), reset via positive terminal disconnect. Light went out. Then a week later it came back on, so I replaced air filter. Reset again. Now it has been 6 weeks and it has stayed off on the dash. I figure at 75000 miles, I should replace O2 sensor. I know I can go to Autozone and have them plug in to see a code. But no dash warning light right now. Preventive maintenance is what I am doing. Thanks for the info. I will try to find the other O2 sensors, and bring with me to the auto parts store. And that ECM fuse info is a big plus. Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-07-11, 02:24 PM
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Like uk, I would be interested in what codes were present. FWIW I wouldn't be replacing O2 sensors that are still functioning properly; the oem you currently have might outlive whatever you replace them with @ $40-70/ea.
 
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Old 09-07-11, 05:50 PM
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preventive maintenance for CEL light is replacing fuel tank cap, running can of Seafoam through a tankful, and resetting ECM.

as of now, and we all wish you well, you are guesspairing, repairing on a guess. PCV valve is easily cleaned with carb cleaner. you keep tossing $$ at that car without any particular reason defined. large GM V6 engines run well and into 150 000 miles without any major trouble.

true preventive maintenance is staying away from cheap gas and doing oil changes with best oils and filters. spark plugs. you do not have plug wires, you have coils, and those last very long time. quality air filters. seafoaming engine and fuel system once a year. at 75000 miles, you are already well due on rear diff, t-case, and front diff fluids, and you replace PCV valve that "sounds sluggish". trust me, your t-case will cost you more, if it blows.

please, do not feel offended or something. i am simply pointing you towards frugal and necessary ways. your desire to DIY and prevent is most commendable indeed. but some things are more pressing than others.

here's an excellent read for you:

The GAS CAP code!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - Automotive Forums .com Car Chat
 
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Old 09-12-11, 12:14 PM
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Ran error test

Ran an error test at Advance Auto. Showed that it was the front left speed sensor that was faulty, causing the ABS and AWD Disable dash light. So I need to replace the wheel hub assy. (with attached sensor), which seems pretty basic (remove caliper; remove disc; remove hub assy. reverse order with proper torque on the bolts). Called GM about this, and wondered why they never sent a notice (NHTSA 10020658; Bulletin 06036), and their response is that 5 years or 60,000 miles after initial ownership operation of vehicle to bring in to the dealership, and they only send notice for recalls. Now they say that I need a GM shop error check (at my cost), then they will contact a "District Specialist Level" office to see if they will re-imburse me part of the cost. Since I am 75,000 miles and 8 years with this vehicle, I doubt any help from them. Mook has a hub assy. for $116.99 at Advance Auto. Guess I'll be paying, and learning at the same time.
 
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Old 09-12-11, 02:42 PM
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last time I replaced hub on a GM product, wheel sensors where removable and could be replaced without replacing hub. you sure?
also, those sensors do collect dirt and crud on them and can "go bad" because of this. simple cleaning, with ECM reset, fixes them sometimes.
 
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Old 09-13-11, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ukrbyk View Post
last time I replaced hub on a GM product, wheel sensors where removable and could be replaced without replacing hub. you sure?
also, those sensors do collect dirt and crud on them and can "go bad" because of this. simple cleaning, with ECM reset, fixes them sometimes.
I pulled on the (grabbed tire at 12:00 and 6:00) tire to see if it rocked, and this vehicle is known for worn bearings, and sure enough it had a little play. My real problem now is manually removing the axle nut (hell of a torque). Using penetrating oil for the three flange bolts (I think it is a 13mm hex head bolt) and the axle nut (? 34mm). Trying to find the torque for this nut and the three flange bolts. Unsure if its 190 ft./lbs. or 85 ft./lbs. for the nut, and 55 ft./lbs. for the flange bolts. Also which is a better brand, Moog, Driveworks, Duralast, or Timken.
 
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Old 09-19-11, 07:47 AM
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Thanks everyone.

I replaced the wheel bearing w/ sensor. It has been a week and not lights on the dash. Solved the problem. Thanks a bunch. Saved me and the family a few dollars in the household.
 
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Old 09-19-11, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by boowoo View Post
I pulled on the (grabbed tire at 12:00 and 6:00) tire to see if it rocked, and this vehicle is known for worn bearings, and sure enough it had a little play. My real problem now is manually removing the axle nut (hell of a torque). Using penetrating oil for the three flange bolts (I think it is a 13mm hex head bolt) and the axle nut (? 34mm). Trying to find the torque for this nut and the three flange bolts. Unsure if its 190 ft./lbs. or 85 ft./lbs. for the nut, and 55 ft./lbs. for the flange bolts. Also which is a better brand, Moog, Driveworks, Duralast, or Timken.
glad you had it fixed. yes, you can not have any play in hub bearings. for the future reference, you go to a nearest by tire shop and ask them to break loose that center nut for you, then hand torque it back, so that you can undo it with a suitable socket/wrench and cheat pipe. "Front end socket kit" that has any socket for pass cars driveaxle nuts, is normally free rental from parts stores.
After done, you hand torque that nut, and drive back to tire shop, so that they power torque it for you. Give them 5 bucks or something. Guy that did it for me last time, simply sold me a 36mm impact socket for 5 bucks, as he had several, so we both were happy. They are EXPENSIVE.
 
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