What will it take to fix this?

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  #1  
Old 09-07-11, 03:20 PM
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Question What will it take to fix this?

I bought this car from an auction but I'm having second thoughts about it.
I'm attaching 3 pics of the damage. Can someone tell me what'll it take to fix it?
Will the gas tank need to be replaced because of the damage to the side?
The right rear wheel - does it look like a $600+ repair?

I know I should have inspected it first, which I didn't.
All help will be appreciated.
Thanks.

.

.
 
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  #2  
Old 09-07-11, 03:35 PM
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Welcome to the forums

Yeah, something is broken on the right rear, could easily be > $600.

Tough to know what all is involved beyond what we can see but I think you're way into the four figures on this.
 
  #3  
Old 09-07-11, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for the reply Mitch.
I see some bodywork on the rear left, hammering it back into shape, I'm just worried about the gas tank. I don't want pointed edges inside the tank that could build up heat due to friction.
On the right rear, I'm actually hoping it'll be less than $1,000.

If I can get everything back into decent drivable condition in less than $2000, I'll be happy.
 
  #4  
Old 09-07-11, 04:01 PM
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Whats the title say???? If salvage title doesnt that mean they totaled it and it will be worth more then the car is worth to fix????

Looks like the sub frame may has shifted.Look at how the tires are oriented. ( I dont think those cars have full frames. )

Basically I think they cut the whole rear off. Its a sub frame/unibody? Its not like the old days where it went on a frame straightener.

Could be wrong though.

Mike NJ
 
  #5  
Old 09-07-11, 05:58 PM
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find a shop that will do it for $2000. my honest to god suggestion. quarter panel needs to be removed. it's unibody, you do not simply hammer it out. your entire rear end configuration is off right now. it's puller job to restore it, hammer and envil don't do it. bumper, bumper skirt, lights, paint, new gas tank very possibly, whatever's messed up on the pass side. both doors have damage to them, quite obvious, they wing away from body.
I am not saying it can't be done for $2000. my buddy owns a flip shop and I have seen some serious messed up stuff that they fixed for amazingly low amounts. but they are PRO SHOP, and use PRO EQUIPMENT, along with frame puller. they buy parts and huge discount, as biz account holders. and they are Ukrainians. Americans will - indeed - cut entire ass off, and weld new one in. will it be 2 grand - hell no!

you can FAKE a decent looking repair, but it will be LOOKS ONLY, it'll be kamikaze car thereafter.
 
  #6  
Old 09-07-11, 06:56 PM
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it'll be kamikaze car thereafter
Thats funny stuff.......I got a chuckle out of that....

Mike NJ
 
  #7  
Old 09-08-11, 04:34 AM
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I wish uk wouldn't sugar-coat his posts.
 
  #8  
Old 09-08-11, 08:21 AM
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Knowledge comes from expierence, expierence is attained from bad decesions. This car was in an auction because it was totalled. If you had the equipment and could do all the work yourself you might come out,if not,,,,I hope you bought it cheap.
 
  #9  
Old 09-08-11, 08:50 AM
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When I look at just what the pictures show my guess is that there is over $2000 just in parts, never mind the surprises around hidden damage. The LH rear quarter assy including door post and other attached metal components is probably $600 by itself. Real tail lamp, rear facia if not repairable, RH rear suspension, possible bent wheel, and likely inner quarter damage along with spash guards could easily add it up to over the $2k parts replacement figure. Count on probably another $250 to $300 on a body alignment/straightening machine, and if you need to give out the paint work, there is probably another $1000 there plus materials. Add all that to your own time. I am guessing the R&R and fitting on the rear quarter alone is 2 days work in allowed book time and that assumes that you are good at it, and there is another day of work pulling everything else together for sure. So when you add it all up on the optimistic side....at least $2000 parts+$1000 paint+$250 or more for body alignment, your at $3250 and that is before having a real peak at what else is nfg, and you being good at body repair/welding etc. If you want to pay a body repair shop you could figure on at least an additonal $2000 labor if they were hungry for business. Like Wrench said below, I hope you didn't pay much for it as salvage. It is a real project.
 
  #10  
Old 09-08-11, 08:53 AM
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Thanks for all your honest opnions. This helps me a lot.
I did get the car cheap, just under 9K for a 2011 model. But the idea of fixing and keeping a salvage title is to be close to 60% to 70% of current market value (17K - 18K), which in this case will probably not happen, keeping in mind the additional fees to be paid to the auction house.
Anyway, thanks a lot for the help.
 
  #11  
Old 09-08-11, 08:56 AM
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At least I found a good DIY auto repair forum that I can keep bookmarked
 
  #12  
Old 09-08-11, 09:22 AM
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Just for info. I was rearended in my 2005 Volvo a few weeks back. Trunk lid dented (replaced) and bumper scratched (replaced), along with a few supports they thought would be necessary for safety. Repaired the WHIPS system. Initial bill was $4500, and I don't know what the sub-bill was. I drove mine home, this guy didn't. I don't see any way out of at least $3k if you do the work yourself, and then you got the unibody thingy, which ain't DIY. Good luck.
 
  #13  
Old 09-08-11, 09:33 AM
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You may come out ok, here - I show book on this car being about $10 K more than you paid, so even a $5 K repair job would leave you some margin.
 
  #14  
Old 09-08-11, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch17 View Post
You may come out ok, here - I show book on this car being about $10 K more than you paid, so even a $5 K repair job would leave you some margin.
it's salvage title. it HAS NO BOOK VALUE. they are very easy to acquire, and VERY HARD TO SELL. my community flips cars all the time, I brushed against pricing and sales long and well enough. it might be something to fix - WELL - and drive yourself. but there is no money in this, and most likely loss. plus, it's a Hyundai, and though they are very popular in new body style, it's still not a Toyota or Honda.

I hate to be bluntly honest. it's one of those wrecks that looks easy fix on the outside, but the very moment you touch it, it keeps asking and asking for $$ on top of $$ and specialty equipment to fix this and that.
 
  #15  
Old 09-08-11, 01:56 PM
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Ukrbk, It is my understanding parts are hard to come by on these cars also. Is that true?

I only say because a family member gave me a 2003 Kia Sedona and the motor blew. ( long story, but the rear heater hose leaked) They told me parts are hard to come buy and a motor was a 4-6 month wait. He said the used motor market was where to look but they cost as much as a new one, because they/parts are scarce. I sold it with the blown motor for $1200. The only foreign car I ever owned only because it was given to me.

Korean stuff that hard to get????? And sometimes double the price????

Mike NJ
 
  #16  
Old 09-08-11, 02:55 PM
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To further add to the question of why this vehicle was totaled verses put under repair if in fact this could be done for $5000 or less, it is because someone put a repair estimate on it that likely came in at $7 or even $8000.00. This would have been done for 2 reasons. They found additional damage not shown in the photos, assumed there would be no repair of parts and only complete replacement, and also protected themselves against hidden damage that is not always easy to negotiate back with the insurance company. How bad is the damage for example to the inner quarter panel? Nobody knows until it is opened up, and in this case getting an insurance company to add to the estimate is often very difficult compared to finding another hidden broken part that nobody would have suspected for example. There is hidden damage and there is other hidden damage which often body shops are expected to absorb. The economics of repair by insurance companies is usually a simple calculation. Find the Actual Cash Value of the vehicle, subtract the repair estimate and ensure that the total repair cost is at least 15% below the estimated ACV minus salvage value. This protects the insurance company from additional surprises on cost. It also depends on who is ending up paying for the loss. If the insurance payout is being subrogated or rebilled to another company, often the owners company is more flexible on agreeing to a total loss to keep their customer happy, including the headache later of future damage related issues surfacing that nobody can predict and the knowledge that the ACV will further be reduced at trade in time due to the repair now being documented through companies such as Car Facts. Salvage value sometimes involves contractual percentages of the ACV with certain salvage yards, but can also be a best guess of what auction will bring. Modern cars are so much more complicated than years ago when most only involved some frame straigthening and purhaps bolting on a used front 'clip' for example with one days labor involved. Modern on board computers can add a hole new cost dimension exposure as do modern high tech suspensions, and front wheel drive also.
 
  #17  
Old 09-09-11, 04:54 AM
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Mike, I haven't heard any particular rumblings that Kia and Hyundai parts are especially hard to come by and/or expensive.

I did a quick lookup using the '03 Sedona as an example. Jasper (remanned), oddly enough, doesn't have one; but I found a supply of used ones:

2003 Kia Sedona Engine Sales > Buy High Quality Used Engines/Motors at Great Discount (Huge Selection)!
 
  #18  
Old 09-09-11, 07:01 AM
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I was not saying this car had resale value which would ensure a profit, I meant the OP may have obtained a car for less than buying an equivalent off a lot IF (big if, I know) the repairs could be completed for something in the $5 K neighborhood.

My fault for stating it in such a way that it was easy to infer I meant book value of this car once repaired.
 
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