2000 Toyota Camry 2.2 - anti-freeze coolant leak 2 weeks ago

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Old 09-12-11, 08:30 AM
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Unhappy 2000 Toyota Camry 2.2 - anti-freeze coolant leak 2 weeks ago

Good morning,
2 weeks ago, I was in a shopping mall for at least 45 minutes. I came out to the car and saw the greenish puddle under my car. I wasnt sure if it came from my car so I had my daughter move the car to a different parking spot. I opened the hood and noticed that my coolant reservour was empty. I called my husband to get some coolant, we put some on the reservour and we went home. We checked it again and it was empty and the top of the radiator had some of the coolant leaking. We figured, we needed a new radiator.

Here's all the things we have done for the last 2 weeks...

Replace radiator
Replace 2 (big) hoses top and bottom
Replace thermostat
Replace the harness wire that connects from the temperature sensor to the right cooling fan. We had to replace it because we broke it when we were taking it out. there were 2 wires and one of them came off. Ordered that through Toyota dealer.
Put in new Coolant anti-freeze coolant both in radiator and coolant reservour

Started the car and let it idle, temperature gauge is midway from COLD and HOT
No leaks
The 2 cooling fan starts to work when A/C is on
The right cooling fan turns on when we disconnect the harness wire connected from the temperature sensor to the right cooling fan.
Both hoses was hot.

After 30-45 minutes, The temperature gauge went up slowly. I was told that when the radiator reaches a certain degree, one of the fan should turn on... none of the fan came on at all.

I don't see any switch for the fan - green wire that is near the thermostat. What did we do wrong?
 
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Old 09-12-11, 12:37 PM
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I'm not sure you've done anything wrong. Trying to refresh my memory so went out and cranked up wife's '01 Camry. It was nearly warmed up from recent drive so only took a few minutes to get up to temperature. Both fans come on when ac is selected. They also both come on if I disconnect the sensor. With ac off, neither fan runs and temperature gauge remains at the midway point and it's pretty warm out this afternoon. As far as I know we don't have any issues.
 
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Old 09-12-11, 12:42 PM
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Additional info. Went back outside and fans hadn't come on yet, so I manually idled it faster. After a couple of minutes both fans came on, ran about 30 seconds and then turned off. The swing on the temp gauge between fans and no fans only amounted to about an 1/8" movement of the needle. As near as I can tell, your description is not the same?

Sounds like sensor or wiring problem if it's not doing what mine does. Other than that two things come to mind with cooling system issues; thermostat reversed [not likely as it sounds like you know your way around] or air bubble in the system. Neither of these really seems to relate to how yours is functioning, though.
 
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Old 09-12-11, 01:25 PM
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Smile

I will try to check the thermostat again this afternoon... how do you know if you put it in right? I know the springs goes inside. Is there a proper way of the top how it goes...

How do you check of air bubbles, we tried to wiggle the big hoses while the radiator cap is off to see if air would come out and it did.

What wiring are you talking about? the temperature sensor wire which is brand new. Do you think its the relay box that is located where the cooling fan is not working. How do I know and check on the relay box? If not what other wiring are you talking about?
Please advise.. and thanks for your thoughts!!!
 
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Old 09-12-11, 03:03 PM
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1. ok, so far, it looks like you have replaced a lot of parts - without maybe really needing this. you never really figured why coolant was going low, did you? might have been as simple as radiator cap.
2. so the fan comes up, or not? if it comes up and temperature goes down, let it be. should sit at around 200 degrees, or above mid mark on temp gauge.
3. you have new radiator now, and it is more efficient cooling, than old one. takes more time to make car hot.
4. like i said - if it does no boil out, or lose coolant, and fan kicks in - you good. if fan kicks in and it still overheats - you have a problem. if fan does not kick in - you have a problem and need to find out why it does not turn on.
NEVER EVER SPIN FANS WITH HAND.

look for air bleeder screw or plug, usually in the thermostat dome. if you do not have one, the only way to bleed air out completely is to open radiator cap, turn engine on, let coolant run, let it spill out some, then start adding it, as its level lowers. what will happen, water pump action will pull coolant through the system, and air will escape through the radiator neck. messy process, but works. when car reaches operating temperature and radiator is filled up to the filler neck top, close cap, and fill expansion canister as marked, or it will suck air in, when coolant cools down. recheck on coolant level in canister on cold engine, adjust as needed.
if you do not have radiator cap, open expansion canister cap, and do same. I doubt you don't, though, on 2001.
 
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Old 09-12-11, 04:39 PM
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From the description I was guessing the radiator was cracked; it would be about the right age for that. Our current Camry and previous one both cracked upper radiator tank at about this age. The other items I assumed were replaced as precautionary/preventive items, so no harm done there.

No bleeder on these and they do have regular filler on rad. To uk's bleeding procedure I would add that I like to do this with the vehicle on a steep uphill slope so as to coax the air [if present] more readily to the filler neck; car ramps work good for this. Sounds like the thermostat install was okay, so I wouldn't bother with that.
 
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