94 Park Avenue coolant leak

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  #1  
Old 09-12-11, 11:19 AM
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94 Park Avenue coolant leak

1994 Buick Park Avenue 3.8L
I have a coolant leak and it appears to be coming from the tube(pipe) from the heater core hose to the engine. It's about 8" long and attaches behind the top left of the water pump when facing the pump. I removed the nut on the brace and it's loose but still won't come out. It wiggles a lot at the engine end so I'm fairly comfortable that's where my leak is. Can anyone tell me what holds this pipe onto the engine? Is there a bolt I can't see? Is it supposed to be pressed in? There's nothing in my manual about this so if anyone has experience it will be appreciated!
 
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Old 09-12-11, 02:50 PM
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nothing. now, you confusing me. you say pipe, then you say hose, then you say pipe again? so is it pipe or hose?
STOP WIGGLING. water pump housings are cast aluminum and break easily.

1. if it's a hose, it has caked coolant and baked rubber stuck to the housing. Take thin flathead and run it circumferentially between metal and hose. Break the seal, so to speak. DO NOT YANK, make sure it's loose well.
2. if it's long pipe inserted into water pump housing, it will have one or several O-rings to seal the pipe in the housing. Spray some Quick Wrench into the housing, and grab pipe firmly. In circular, back-for motions, "screw out" the pipe.

When replacing all this, put some antiseeze on metal surfaces. Do not use any grease on seals and O-rings, if any.
 
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Old 09-12-11, 04:57 PM
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I'M NOT WIGGLING! It's a pipe. On one end is the hose coming from the heater core. The other end connects to the block behind the water pump. I can't see how it connects to the block. If there's a bolt and a gasket I don't want to wiggle it until it breaks. If it's pressed in I can probably wiggle it out. I was hoping someone had experience with this particular setup.
 
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Old 09-13-11, 05:30 AM
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Been racking my brain since seeing your post yesterday. I did heads on one of those last year and I'm sure I had to mess with what you're describing, but I just can't remember how that tube is configured. I want to say there's a part like you're describing that is prone to corroding, but I may be thinking of some other vehicle/engine. I'll see what I can find out if nobody else knows specifically.
 
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Old 09-13-11, 08:12 AM
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GM has been using a "snap in" coupling for their heater hoses. I beleive you have to squeeze the ears together. Tow what you are thinking of is the one on chev trucks that corrodes and breaks off in the manifold. If you can, remove this peice of crap and put in a hose barb. There is a restrictor in this fitting but it doesnt seem to make any difference by removing it.
 
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Old 09-13-11, 09:01 PM
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the answers.

Retired wrench, what you're describing sounds like the plastic POS connector for the heater hoses on my wifes Suburban, but they're on the heater core end of the hose. Did they use something similar at the engine end of them too? The pipe does appear corroded at the last point I can see it but the last 3/4" is hidden behind a flange where the water pump mounts. I can't see it even with a mirror. The other one connects to the manifold with a flat end, bolt and what looks like it should have a gasket inside. I guess I'll mosey over to the dealership tomorrow and see if he can show me what a new one would look like.
 
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Old 09-14-11, 06:50 PM
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On chev pickups the hose clamps on the heater core then transitions to pipe (to go over the hot ex manifold) then plugs in to a pot metal fitting that screws in to the intake manifold. This fitting corrodes and breaks off. Cant say for sure on your Buick.
 
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