not much heat

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  #1  
Old 01-10-12, 11:58 AM
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not much heat

98 Ranger 4 cylinder putting out not much heat from heater. Some heat but not really all that warm even turned up all the way. Checked coolant level and is fine in radiator and reservoir. Let it run quite a while with heat on and felt upper and lower radiator hoses, neither of which got very warm at all after 10 min or so of running. Felt heater hoses http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...1/IMG_1715.jpg going into and out of firewall, and they felt fairly warm but not hot. Wondering if maybe thermostat is not working right, and need a new one? Or something else, like a heater control valve or something. In the picture there, what's that smaller hose going into the hose shown on the right? I assume its a vacuum hose because it goes to the engine. Any suggestions for initial troubleshooting and/or a likely fix for the issue appreciated here please.
 
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Old 01-10-12, 02:12 PM
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Does your truck have a temp gauge? What does it register?

If hoses aren't "HOT" then you likely need a new thermostat.
 
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Old 01-10-12, 04:42 PM
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Temperature gauge reads down in the C area after engine idling 15 min or so, with heater turned on full blast (outside temp is about 32F). Heater hoses felt on firewall side of engine are warm, one fairly warm but not hot, and the other just kind of warm but not as warm. Upper and lower radiator hoses I feel no warmth. Further comment please, thanks.
 
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Old 01-10-12, 05:49 PM
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hah, 98, you say?
had 99 Ranger WITH EXACTLY SAME ISSUE at only 35 000 miles. engine plane refused to warm up.
I started driving with radiator completely covered with piece of cardboard. that help some.
I can speak only for a 2.5L 4 banger. t-stat is all the way down next to oil pan, on engine pass side, AND YOU HAVE TO DRAIN ENTIRE SYSTEM TO GET IT OUT. I say - efff - it, and cardboard came in play.
was super reliable car otherwise.
 
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Old 01-10-12, 05:53 PM
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you have flush plug installed into heater hose. you might, as well, have air in the system. air lock, like emboly. I do not remember if your radiator even has cap, but it might be a good idea to purge the system.
 
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Old 01-10-12, 06:07 PM
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Ukrbyk,

Yeah I've had this truck for maybe 8 years now and never really had a problem with the engine warming up. Its a 2.5L 4 cylinder. It does have a radiator cap, why did you mention that? As you say though maybe I could try to purge some possible air out of the system by taking the hose flush plug cap off to let air out, would that be a good method? Thanks..

ps: what is that word "emboly" in your last post?
 
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Old 01-11-12, 06:16 PM
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oh, I am in health care. Embolism is caused by emboli. Emboli is simply an air bubble in blood stream. does same thing - kills circulation. forgot who used to be cheap enough to save bullet money and, instead, inject syringe of air into vein to kill people.
yes, I had exactly same engine.
reason being I asked about cap is that normally, air purging is done through the highest point in cooling system. usually, t-stats are located at that point and have bleeder screw. Mazda in its infinite wisdom chose to stick t-stat all the way down at the bottom, so you have to go through radiator cap to bleed the system. now, many newer cars do not have caps, but have pressurized system with expansion canister and no cap.
 
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Old 01-11-12, 07:06 PM
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I don't have a service manual for the truck (I know, I should get one). A brief description of the method for purging/bleeding any possible air out of the system through the radiator cap would be quite helpful to me here. Does the flush valve/cap there on the heater hose come into play with that method? thanks
 
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Old 01-11-12, 07:41 PM
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Sounds like you need a new thermostat.
 
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Old 01-11-12, 07:48 PM
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Okay will replace thermostat. Which of course will also entail draining the entire system, refilling, and purging of air I suppose. thanks
 
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Old 01-12-12, 05:50 PM
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that flush insert might have been involved, by slowly leaking air in. all it is is a plastic T with garden hose gasket inside, underneath the cap.
the easiest way to purge system is to open radiator cap, start engine, and let it run. some coolant will spill out, then level will start dropping, and you keep adding coolant, until it stabilizes. then you turn engine off, re-install cap, fill expansion canister, and let it cool, with following level drop in expansion canister. then you add coolant to canister and check on radiator few hrs later.
that's for radiator cap being at the summit of cooling system. if it's not, air will stay in the highest part of it. you simply need to look at your system, I rid of mine about 1.5 year ago.
man, they stuck t-stat into goofy spot.....
 
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