99 plymouth voyager over heating and no inside heat


  #1  
Old 03-06-12, 06:09 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
99 plymouth voyager over heating and no inside heat

my 99 voyager is over heating and the inside heater is now not working. for like the past month my radiator fan has not been working so sometimes when im in traffic or driving long the van would start to over heat. i would just stop and let it cool down for like ten mins and it would be ok. as soon as i start moving and air stars flowing in threw the vents it would quickly cool down.

now about 3 days ago the heat inside the van stopped working and now the van heats up quickly and starts to overheat. even on the highway the temp and lever will start to rise. i had anti freeze in the van and now its draining quickly but i see no leaks. it seems to help some when i turn the heat on eventhough no heat comes out but that only works for a littel bit then it still heats up and i have to pull over to let the van cool down. can anyone help.


the radiator is less than 2 years old, just had an ols change its not due yet,the radiator relay is less than 3 years old.

i dont let it get to the red line. i always pull over befor it gets there . can someone help.
 
  #2  
Old 03-06-12, 06:40 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 27,592
Received 2,144 Upvotes on 1,920 Posts
When you were having the intermittent problem were you also loosing coolant then? You say it's "draining now". Does that mean when you pour coolant in you can see the level in the radiator drop as you watch or it is just low the next time you check? Have you noticed it making a smokey exhaust a change in the exhaust smell? Have you pulled the dipstick and looked at and smelled the oil? Does it seem normal. Have you checked the water pump?
 
  #3  
Old 03-06-12, 09:01 AM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 3,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
When is the last time you changed out the thermostat? Your description sounds like it is stuck in the closed position.
 
  #4  
Old 03-06-12, 12:15 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
the thermostat was changed when i got a new radiator that was less than 2 years ago. when i put the antifreez in the next time i checked the levels it was lower hen when i checked again the next day it bwas even lower. this was over the last 3 days. i have not noticed any unusal smoke or different color smoke and no unusal smells that i have not smelled before. i have not checked the water pump at all.
 
  #5  
Old 03-06-12, 12:58 PM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 27,592
Received 2,144 Upvotes on 1,920 Posts
The thermostat is easy to check. Take it out and suspend with a string or wire it in a pot of water and put it on the stove. Use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water and you should see it open.

I don't know for sure but I think the Voyager has one big serpentine belt so you'd loose power steering, AC and the alternator if the belt broke so I'm sure you'd catch that. And if the pump were gone I assume the engine would be toast by now.

I'm wondering if you've got a lot of scale or crud in the system and it's plugged the heater core and at least partially blocked your new radiator. I would check the thermostat first since it's so cheap and easy.
 
  #6  
Old 03-06-12, 02:23 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Owen Sound Ontario Canada
Posts: 519
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You may have a head gasket or head that is gone.
Could have happened like this.
Rad fan gone so heat is not controled to its normal limit.
Constant expansion and contraction of the head, which is more then its normal limit, damages the head gasket or head.
The coolant in the rad is used up in the cylinder and replaced with hot exhaust gas which heats things up fast. Also it leaves a vapour space and coolant no longer goes to the heater core so no heater is available.
I suggest starting by getting a kit such as this
Amazon.com: Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector: Automotive
and testing it yourself or taking it to a shop and getting them to test for exhaust gas in the rad.
In the past I made a test rig for head gaskets which attached to the heater hose for about $12 but it is sort of hard to describe.
 
  #7  
Old 03-07-12, 03:58 AM
W
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Floriduhhhhh Us of A
Posts: 599
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You're giving a perfect description of low coolant.....The heater core is the highest part of the system so you can overheat and have no heat at the same time. The fan sensor may not be getting coolant to sense the temp. .........HOWEVER, the fan relay on these were chronic problems (Chrysler has an updated relay)
Are nyou checking the coolant at the radiator or the overflow bottle????
Things I would look for ........Open and fill the radiator (cold please.....self inlicted injury is not an option) I'm assuming it's a 3.0 mitsubishi V6 (most popular) A block test to confirm whether the head gaskets are toast or not. A pressure test to confirm where the leak is...... Please note (AGAIN assuming it's a 3.0) These cars were notorious for leaks in the tube that runs under the intake to the water pump
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: