cheapo vehicle lift tips?

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  #1  
Old 05-03-12, 08:24 AM
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cheapo vehicle lift tips?

I'd sure like to be able to get my 93 Jeep Wagoneer up off the ground, maybe at least a foot or so all the way around, so I could slip myself under there and have enough room to accomplish some various repair work from underneath. But all I have is a 1.5 ton floor jack and no jack stands or ramps or anything like that. Do have a lot of and 6 x 6 blocks and plenty of other scrap lumber. Oh yeah and I have a good strong bottle jack too. I'd be lifting the Jeep and working on it in my flat gravel covered driveway.

I can't afford to go buy jacks stands or anything like that. Any suggestions on a method to get the vehicle up as described, so it'd be sitting securely on blocks. If necessary I could try something creative, if something creative could be the answer.

I know I should "invest" in some jack stands and whatever, but I tell ya that just aint gonna happen.
thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 05-03-12, 08:27 AM
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I'd build some ramps out of the blocks and lumber you have lying around.

The ones I have only come up about 7" but there's plenty of room to crawl under a car.
 
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Old 05-03-12, 08:34 AM
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Mitch17, did you build your ramps out of blocks and lumber? If so would you mind describing how you constructed them or perhaps show a picture. Also, I really think I'd like to raise the vehicle up more than 7 in
 
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Old 05-03-12, 08:41 AM
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2x12 base with 2x4s stacked (flat) on top for a total of four layers. Edges cut to 45 to get the car up. One 2x4 attached across at the back as a stop to know when you have the car up far enough.

More lumber = more height.

No pics currently, I'll see what I can do.
 
  #5  
Old 05-03-12, 08:52 AM
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No cinder blocks, bricks or anything like that! If you do...one day we might never hear from you again.

The wood can be used as long as you use it to compress across the grain.....not so it will try and split it. I mean...that's what they rest ships on when they go to drydock....great big gigantic blocks of wood.

Build them up to the height you want after measuring and test fitting where they will support the car. Put a handle of some sort on the side so they are easy to carry and position.
 
  #6  
Old 05-03-12, 09:26 AM
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Mitch17,
Not quite being able to visualize in my mind the "2x4s stacked flat on top for a total of four layers". Also, to be clear, I'm wanting to raise all four tires up off the ground, so if I went the ramp route I'd be needing to get four of the ramps built so I could drive up onto all four. thanks
 
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Old 05-03-12, 09:31 AM
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If I go putting on blocks (not using ramps) I really need to know the jacking and setting of blocks procedure for doing so. I might be able to do "test fitting where they will support the car" but the method of getting them under there to support the car with just the jack(s) I mentioned and the blocks is where I need help
 
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Old 05-03-12, 09:34 AM
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Seriously, You can get a set of stands for $23 that go up to 16".
 
  #9  
Old 05-03-12, 09:39 AM
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I know you say you have lumber lying around but I see my ramps being way more than $23 worth of materials if you need four.

That said, why do you need four? I've never had the need to have all four tires up at the same time.
 
  #10  
Old 05-03-12, 10:02 AM
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Well.....you'd have to lift one side/corner/end at a time..then put the blocks in place and lower the vehicle. This vehicle has a solid frame doesn't it? Or is it a uni-body? Full frame makes it much easier.

Hmmm maybe not.....I see this was the first year after Chrysler bought AMC and was a new design so it's uni-body.

Do you have a manual for it? It should show you jacking points.

Oh...I realized you were talking about ramps earlier...so you won't be raising it with the wheels off?

That makes it very simple. Jack it up like you have any other time....raise it as high as you want...then put the blocking under the tires?

Either that or construct the ramps (here's one example...but they are overly long I feel... Mustangworld - Build yourself some ramps !) to easily lift the front and jack up and block the rears.

I always found that 95% of the time just raising the front 8-10" gave plenty of access unless I was specifically doing rear-end work.
 
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Old 05-03-12, 10:02 AM
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Yeah I checked the two local auto parts stores here in this small SE Alaska town. One place NAPA sells a pair of 3 ton jackstands for 50 bucks, the other place Carquest sells same (3 ton) for 25 bucks. But like I said I dont cant spend the dough for jackstands so I dont need that suggestion here.
 
  #12  
Old 05-03-12, 10:06 AM
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Okay thanks you guys. I guess I have some ideas now.
 
  #13  
Old 05-03-12, 08:31 PM
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I hate to say, but if you can't afford the $25 Jack stands, Maybe you shouldn't be crawling around under the thing to start with... Father always said "You'r a long time Dead"" It's your choice if your life is worth the $25 bucks you save on the axle stands... Just my thoughts... Roger
 
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Old 05-03-12, 09:18 PM
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look at this: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...gull1/ramp.jpg

Maybe I can build one like it with my scrap lumber lying around

Nah. Just kidding. I'll bite the bullet and go buy the $25 jackstands. Really, thanks for all suggestions here.

Also, I do sorta like the idea there of those homemade ramps shown in the link provided in Gunguy's post here. Seems like those might work pretty good
 

Last edited by sgull; 05-03-12 at 09:52 PM.
  #15  
Old 05-04-12, 07:01 AM
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Re: Gunguy's link. At one point they say you can use 2X11s if you need them wider. That tingles my Spidey sense because it shows he knows little about dimensional lumber as does his comments about thickness. Then he suggests using nails. For something like this I would only use screws. Might even suggest heavy duty construction adhesive in addition to screws but thats just me. Bottom line he strikes me as a rank amateur and I don't trust amateurs.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 05-04-12 at 07:48 AM.
  #16  
Old 05-04-12, 07:31 AM
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Did you look on craigslist? I did around me and found a pair for $10
 
  #17  
Old 05-04-12, 07:35 AM
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Yeah...I was just showing that as an illustration. The boards aren't even beveled at a 45....just cut square....and like I said....way too long to be moved and stored easily IMO.
 
  #18  
Old 05-04-12, 07:51 AM
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Yeah on those ramps in Gunguys link: Well not sure if its my Spidey sense being tingled too, or the fact that I won't be trying to lift a slammed stang, I too would be more "inclined" (pun intended) to use 2x12s and screws instead of 2x11s (snicker) and nails. As well the thought of maybe also using some construction adhesive crossed my mind. And as Gunguy mentioned they seem rather excessive in length. Still, though, the general idea there seems fine to me.
 
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Old 05-04-12, 09:43 AM
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Thumbs down

I doubt this is OSHA approved:


 
  #20  
Old 05-04-12, 01:02 PM
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Hey Baldwin where'd you get that picture of me working on my truck?
 
  #21  
Old 05-06-12, 09:17 AM
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Here's what Mitch has in mind. I use something similar.
Using ramps to change oil? - Bob Is The Oil Guy
 
  #22  
Old 05-06-12, 09:57 AM
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Kestas that is a quite interesting/helpful discussion, I think, at the link you provided. Covers many pros and cons of lifing using different methods depending on the situation. Are the ramps you made similar to those constructed by "big mike" in the thread there? I might build a set of those kind.
 
  #23  
Old 05-08-12, 08:08 AM
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Sure, I simply used some scrap 2 x 12 lumber stacked (and stepped) four high. Mine isn't as long as those seen in the pictures. When I made mine, I thought it was a novel idea until I saw that many others thought of it as well.
 
  #24  
Old 05-08-12, 09:18 AM
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What I have is pretty similar to the picture in Kestas's link, the difference being mine only have a 2x12 on the bottom, the additional layer are made of pieces of 2x4.
 
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