2003 chevy malibu cut off while driving ??? Help

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  #1  
Old 06-17-12, 10:40 AM
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2003 chevy malibu cut off while driving ??? Help

Daughters 03 malibu cut off while going down street about 35 mph. She said she did not notice it til she pressed gas pedal and no response. She managed to coast into mcdonalds parking area. She said she tried to fire it back up but it would not crank. (It turns over fine but just won't fire up.) I towed it home late yesterday and and after sitting all night i tried to crank it up this morning. When i turned the key it cranked up for just a second and then back off. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet and was just trying to get some idea of what it might be from some of you more knowleable folks. Thanks for any help..
 
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Old 06-17-12, 02:03 PM
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Fuel, air, compression and heat. One of those is missing. My bet is on a bad fuel pump, or other fuel restriction like a clogged filter.
 
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Old 06-17-12, 02:27 PM
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Any lights on the dash? Like maybe battery light?

Rent scanner from any parts store and read error codes.

Clean battery cables and terminals, and retry.
 
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Old 06-17-12, 02:36 PM
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thanks guys, i will check filter tommorow and hope thats what it is, she got the car about a year ago and has never done anything other than change the oil. There are no check engine lights and no codes showing up. The battery terminals are clean..
 
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Old 06-18-12, 05:47 AM
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Sounds like fuel delivery but I've replaced a couple crankshaft position sensors over the years so my mind goes to them pretty quickly as well. Do you smell raw gas at the exhaust pipe when it won't start?
 
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Old 06-18-12, 05:57 AM
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why would it not show some trouble code??? I noticed that each time it sets for a couple hours it will fire up for just a second then cut back off and won't hit at all, but will do the same thing in a couple more hours.
 
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Old 06-18-12, 06:21 AM
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There may be a code in the computer but not a light on the dash.
 
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Old 06-18-12, 02:30 PM
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It sounds to me that all this could be GM Passkey security related also. While often when these vehicles have a Passkey failure requiring a simple reboot the engine, and almost all of them do, they will not turn over at all, however there are also alot of cases where it will turn over with the starter getting power, but the security system has shut down the fuel pump. The next time this issue occurs try the 10 minute reset proceedure that is in the owners manual and see if it will immediately start. (key on for 10 then turn off and try to start) If so, this will pretty much narrow things down for you. Other related causes can be the ignition switch itself, as well as something going on with the BCM computer itself that ties into the Passkey failure situation. Malibus, Grand Ams and Aleros all had chronic Passkey issues that GM was not able to correct at the vehicle level, and ended up re-engineering their system.
 
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Old 06-19-12, 04:44 AM
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well got it in my building but still not had time to check it out, i did try cranking it again this morning after setting for about 12 hours and it fired right up and ran for about 10 seconds before quitting. If it were a sensor or fuel pump looks like it would show a code, got nothing when i did a scan, scanner said no problems..
 
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Old 06-19-12, 07:29 AM
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I dont think you will see it on a scanner if its the security feature.

You should see the security light on the dash blinking when you try to start it.

Look in the fuel section of the manual and let us know what it says.

I have the Alero and modified my ignition so it does not happen anymore. I had chronic issues and it was annoying.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 06-19-12, 05:01 PM
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ok, finally got back to do some checking on it. I don't think it is a security issue. I checked the fuel pump relay by switching the car on but not to start, and the relay clicks and you can feel it when it does. The only other fuse i can find to do with the fuel is the fp injector, which is ok anyway. I cannot hear the fuel pump come on when i remove the gas cap and have someone else switch the car on. Now how do i verify that i am definately getting juice at the fuel pump. The wire cable coming from above the gas tank out to a connector( i assume this is the wire going to the fuel pump.) has about 6 or 8 wires it looks like, and the plug has a small pin for each wire. I don't have a manual on this car and don't know which wire is which. Hoping one of you will know this info for me. (03 chevy malibu v-6 Base model). Also if it is the fuel pump, do i have to drop the tank. Can i drop the tank with it jacked up and on jack stands. I got under it today and just enough room for me slide under it.
 
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Old 06-19-12, 05:08 PM
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Spray the key with lubricat and or try a different key. There is a hall effect sensor that causes the security thing to happen.

I believe the injectors shut down and not the fuel pump.

I will locate the site for you.

My alero did that too as you stated. Start for 2 seconds then stall.

So any security light or similar flashing on the dash??

Mike NJ
 
  #13  
Old 06-19-12, 07:08 PM
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no there are no theft lights or security lights flashing. All the lights look like they always have when switched on or trying to crank it.
 
  #14  
Old 06-19-12, 07:11 PM
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I found the test port at the end of the fuel rail to check pressure and pressed the valve stem and it appears there is no pressure.
 
  #15  
Old 06-22-12, 05:51 AM
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ok guys dropped the fuel tank and fuel pump is bad. Just wondering if any of you have ever purchased a pump off e-bay. The cheapest one i can find for this malibu at any of the local parts stores is over 200.00. Ebay has off brand ones for as little as 65.00 which includes a new wiring harness, o-ring,etc. Heres the link, thanks for all your help.. 00-05 Cavalier Malibu Grand Am Sunfire Alero fuel pump w/Sending Unit E3507M | eBay
 
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Old 06-22-12, 06:00 AM
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I would not buy an off brand one IMO. They will not last long and you will be replacing them from what I heard.

OEM is the way to go IMO, although I did meet half way when I replaced my pump on my pick up. ( Only because its old. 96') I got a Carter from the auto store. Pep boys for around $200.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 06-22-12, 05:12 PM
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This would be a better deal

Look at Item number: 110668811159 on Ebay as this is a Airtex Pump who builds a lot of pumps for OEM use. If you were able to drop the Tank then you should be able to replace the pump alone and therefore lessen the chance that your sending unit would read different.
 
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Old 06-22-12, 06:23 PM
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I guess you checked everything and your sure its the pump, right? Hate to see you drop the dough when its a relay or that fuel cut off thing.

Here the carters.

Product Results Fuel Pumps & Components | Pep Boys

Mike NJ
 
  #19  
Old 06-22-12, 09:21 PM
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After getting the tank out from under the car i disconnected the connector at the pump and connected a hot wire and ground to the pump connector and got no response from pump. I know i'm hooking to the right terminals after finding a wiring diagram.......JPEOP how hard is it to just change the pump out using one like you linked me to on ebay.thanks
 
  #20  
Old 06-23-12, 02:19 AM
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Changing Pump

It's not real diffucult the only thing that can be diffcult is opening the canister housing. You usually have 2 tabs and the center slids out and then its just a matter of pulling the old pump off and slipping the new one on and connecting the wires and snapping the case back together. Make sure that you install the new filter sock and replace the fuel filter when you are finished as there can be peices of the old pump in the old filter. Just take your time and look at the part closely and note the position of everything as you take it apart so that you can reinstall everthing right so you don't have to do it again. Good Luck.
Jim
 
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Old 06-23-12, 04:18 AM
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Just out of curiosity who was the nit wit that invented in-tank fuel pumps? Do you see the hassle oren is having with changing out such a simple item? Even with Dodge, they recommend removing the stock lift pump and installing an in-tank on the Cummins. No thank you. I removed the stock one and mounted a racing pump on the frame. If I have problems, it is accessible without having to remove a tank that could weigh 400 lbs. IMO there is no advantage to having one inside the tank "pushing" rather than having one external "pulling".
 
  #22  
Old 06-23-12, 06:42 AM
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I definately agree CHANDLER... Hey i also own a 2000 dodge truck, and had to change the injection pump and replaced the fuel pump with a fass and moved it to the rear just ahead of the tank on frame rail, working good after 2 years. Hey___ (JEOP)___ does that replacement pump come with the sock and everything needed to do the job. Also is this stuff all standard so that the pump will fit in what ever unit is installed already. I think the old unit is what came on the vehicle from factory the only name i can see is on the plug at the top of the tank pump which is DELCO. Also everything else seems to be fine as far as the gas needle working correctly, its just that the pump is not working . Yea i pulled out the old gas filter while removing the tank, i don't think it has ever been changed from the way it looked.... thanks
 
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Old 06-23-12, 10:49 AM
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I'm running a 2001 Cummins dually, and that is what I did. The frame pump must be level with or lower than the tank, which of course it will be. I'd like to graduate to Fass, but the pocket book is a little thin, especially when the Summit is running OK. I do carry a spare lift pump on the truck, and will probably never need it. Hey, it turned over 409,000 miles yesterday, so I'm cool.
 
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Old 06-23-12, 11:46 AM
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I neither dropped my tank or lifted the bed. I removed the bed liner and cut a access panel right over the fuel tank.



Mike NJ
 
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Old 06-23-12, 01:23 PM
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The fuel pumps are built to different specs for different engine requirements the link i sent you was for your 2003 malibu and will have all of the parts needed to install the pump into the existing module. The pumps are different volumes and pressures as some vechiles use fuel pressure regulators and others don't so the pumps may have as low as 30# of pressure while others may be capable of over 120#.
 
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Old 06-23-12, 04:13 PM
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JPeop, good info on the installation. I only question output pressures. Seem quite a bit high for anything but a dragster. Most "normal" cars are running at 5 to 10# of pressure from the fuel pump. My diesel runs fine at 15, but 20 makes me warm and fuzzy.

cut a access panel right over the fuel tank.
Mike, only a plumber would do that, but it worked, right???
 
  #27  
Old 06-23-12, 05:05 PM
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Chandler most all modern engines have individual injectors which require anywhere from 25# up 75# of pressure for the injector to supply the proper amount of fuel and spray pattern for the engine parameters. A system that is running at 10# max will probably be feeding a old school carburetor or is feeding a high pressure injector pump as on your diesel engines which will increase the pressure as high as 25,000 lb/sq.in. on the direct injected diesel engines being used in today's modern cars and trucks. The fuel system on the GM LS7 engine the fuel pump for that engine has the capabilities of producing around 135lb/sq.in. of pressure of which the engine computer regulates the pressure depending on the requirements that the engine demands to operate under the current conditions. Hope that I was able to explain this sufficiently and thoroughly enough for you to follow as I have an easier time showing someone something than explaining it in words.
Jim
 
  #28  
Old 06-25-12, 05:04 PM
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Guys i hate to keep bugging you about this dang fuel pump. But i was checking out the connections on the tank and the pump, and the hot wire that plugs on to the pump seems to be the problem. I hooked it up directly to battery with alligator clips on the terminals on the pump and it started right up and then i set the unit in a small container filled with gas with the outlet hose in another container to catch the gas. The thing pumps really good with it hooked up like that but if i re-install the connector on the pump it might run and it might not, but when it don't come on and i wiggle the connector it starts back up. I tried squeezing the connector with pliers to tighten it up, but it just seems that it will not get really tight on there. What would be the best way to fix this cut the connector off and splice a new one on or would that even work with the gas. I assume it would have to be a heavy duty connector, not one of the thin blade types. Or would it be even worth doing all this....thanks again
 
  #29  
Old 06-25-12, 06:17 PM
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If you are able to get it to run then you have a poor connection you may check out the ground wire were it is grounded to the frame and make sure that you are getting a good connection. I would take some good electronic cleaner and clean both the plug and the spade real well. to tighten the spade clips you will have to take a pick and actually tighten the female connector inside of the insulator also check where the wires connect at the inside of the mounting plate and make sure that there is not corrosion and the terminals are not corroded. If you have a digital ohm meter you can check the resistance through the connections and you should be able to isolate where the high resistance is.
Jim
 
  #30  
Old 06-28-12, 08:27 AM
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Same problem

My '03 Malibu has given me the same problem. Changed the fuel pump and it died while driving the next day. So changed the ignition switch and it died the next day. But didn't give me problems for another week or so, except when I turned on my AC. The last time it died I had turned on my heater, it was 105 and my car was starting to overheat going up a mountain pass. The heater ran for about 5 minutes and then the car turned off like it has been. Had it towed and the mechanic said it was the fuel pump again, replaced that and it still doesn't start. Any ideas?
 
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