1997 Toyota Camry overheating problem

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  #41  
Old 08-30-12, 09:29 AM
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I guess I was just being as retarded as it sounded. I did get an email saying there was a new post but maybe it came late or I didn't refresh my email or something. In either case I see all of them thanks
 
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  #42  
Old 08-30-12, 09:32 AM
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Update to the car:
I got the head off and unfortunately I don't see anything wrong. The HG looked ok and I don't see any of the coolant ports being blocked. While I was at it I took a look at the WP and that looks just fine. The bearing is good and it turns freely.
I did find ONE thing while I was taking it apart but decided that it couldn't cause overheating so I continued. The throttle body gasket was put on wrong. There is an air channel there and the gasket partially blocks it. This was not covered... Maybe this will cause the overheating. I can only hope.
Anything anyone think I should look for as I put it back together?
 
  #43  
Old 08-30-12, 11:58 AM
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I'm thinking there probably was a reply from a spammer that was removed. You would have been notified anyway as soon as the post was made. Happens sometimes.
 
  #44  
Old 08-30-12, 05:06 PM
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Frankly I would run it by a machine shop for a complete check for cracks and especially surface warpage. They have all the proper equipment for checking. You're using new head bolts right?
 
  #45  
Old 08-30-12, 05:20 PM
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I was thinking I might get it checked at least to see if it's warped. The only thing is the compression was good. Maybe I'm assuming too much by thinking compression means the head is not warped.
Yes I have new bolts too.
 
  #46  
Old 08-30-12, 07:16 PM
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you won't see microcracks in sealing rings in HG. Considering you got that far, simply replace it. Use bronze sealant on it.

I sorta cruised through all the posts again. You did not have radiator replaced? Brown coolant just won't let me be. Though some coolants are reddish, it looks like you have rust in it or, someone used radiator sealant. What that does is surely plugs your radiator.

Ruling out sensors and fans, I vote for radiator and HG replacement. Oh, and btw. Hoses. Sometimes, they collapse inside, and cause blockage. No tmuch expense, you already up $$$$ with all this, so replace them too.
 
  #47  
Old 08-30-12, 07:25 PM
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I am also leaning towards radiator fouling. You never described just how you flushed the radiator. These things have a high flow rate, probably in excess of thirty gallons per minute and flushing with a garden hose won't show blockage that a higher flow rate will. Unless the radiator was power reverse flushed in a radiator shop and then flow tested the probability of a fouled radiator is high.

I had a 1987 Camry and it overheated with all the same symptoms as your '97. I did use a power flush gun from the 1930's on it in reverse flow and got a lot of crap out but I had no means of ascertaining the total flow rate. The thing continued to overheat on longer trips so I finally threw in the towel and replaced the radiator. After that it was fine.
 
  #48  
Old 09-05-12, 01:03 PM
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ALL FIXED! Honestly I'm not even sure what fixed it.
As I said I took it all back apart and here's what I did:
1. New head gasket
2. Made sure to clean and inspect the coolant ports very well.
This included high pressure air cleaning
Also included taking off the water pump to check that port
3. Put in old T-Stat (I don't believe this to be the fix as it overheated wit this one in.
4. Fixed throttle body gasket
5. New coolant 50/50 as opposed to 100% and garden hose water
6. Made sure to bleed the coolant system VERY well. There is a bleeder in the back that I took out. I also took out the T-stat and housing and disconnected the upper radiator hose. I poured coolant into the upper radiator hose so it went straight to the engine not the radiator. I did this until it came out of the bleeder in the back. Then I put that back in. I continued until it come out of the water pump. Then I put in the T-stat and housing and hooked up the lower hose. Then I continued to pour into the engine until it came up to the radiator cap. Then I hooked up the upper radiator hose and topped off through the radiator. I'm fairly certain there were not air pockets after that lol. But I did run it up until temp with the cap off just to make sure.

Everything seems great now but I do need to do a valve adjustment. If anyone else is tackling this job make sure to either not take out or keep track of where the valve caps came from. I had some fall out on me when I tipped the head up so I had no idea where then went back to. I had to take them all out to give it a good cleaning and then just put them back in where ever. They all appear the same but they have small shims that make the clearances. Anyway all is well now. If anyone has any questions on a 5FSE head gasket job just let me know lol.

Thanks for all the help and support.
 
  #49  
Old 09-05-12, 03:23 PM
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whoo-hooo!! good for you

now you'll be $350 short, as someone will have to do rockers + shims job for you. And you have to buy entire set of those shims... Honda rules in that respect.
 
  #50  
Old 09-23-12, 09:37 PM
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Simuliar Problem over heating camry

On my 2.4L 97 Camry, I accidentally broke the sender temperature gauge sensor and the Fast Idle control sensor while replace the ignition wires. I replaced both sensors. The temperature gauge sensor was replaced with a Japan built Camry part as required. Since then, (last 2 weeks) at sustained highway speeds (55), the temperature gauge will climb near the red zone. When this happens, if I stop the car and just accelerate it, it will go just about back to normal the temperate. Also, if I let the car just idle for a few minutes it will go just about back to normal. The radiator is new and was replaced a month before I broke the sensors. The water pump/ thermostat is 2 years old. The radiator fluid is new, not mixed as the Toyota parts person told that Camry for the 90ís are not to use mixed 50/50. The Camry does act like an overheated car, that is, it does not ping, knock, or not able to accelerate smoothly. When idling, both fans with and without the A/C will come on as it should. Is it possible that I introduced an air bubble into the system? How do you get it out? I Also, read from some thread here that there is a bleeder in the back, do you know where this is specifically.
 
  #51  
Old 09-24-12, 04:21 AM
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Well, the temp gauge sender has no relationship to engine operation, so the sender in and of itself wouldn't be your problem. You're sure it's the temp gauge sender and not the ECM temp sender, right?

I do think air in the system is on the short list of suspects. I'm not familiar with any bleeder on that engine; if there is one it would not be in the back, but rather at a high point in the system. Sometimes these bleeders are on the thermostat housing/elbow. Only thing I can think of in the back might be an engine block drain. My cure for air is usually to park on a steep uphill (car ramps work good), then remove the radiator cap and run the engine until the thermostat opens. This will often coax the air to the high spot (open rad cap) where it will "burp". Note on this, it gets a bit messy as there will be some discharge of coolant while it warms and expands before reaching thermostat opening temp.
 
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