Looking for Jeep cruise control advice
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Looking for Jeep cruise control advice
2001 Cherokee with factory cruise control. Working fine until it suddenly wasn't. "Cruise" light on dash does not come on when On-Off switch pressed, so of course the system consequently does not function.
Trouble shooting so far:
-Removed On-Off switch (this rocker switch has on-off on the top and "Set" at the bottom) and tested continuity when the "On" portion is pressed. No continuity, but I'm not positive that this proves anything.
-Tried a jumper wire on the plug contacts in the steering wheel when engine is on and truck is in gear. No joy there, but again this may prove nothing.
-Looked for a fuse, both in the pass. compartment panel and under the hood, in the "black box", but no fuse seems to exist labeled "cruise control" (??)
New on-off switch is $40 + shipping, but I sure hate to do that unless I'm at least somewhat convinced it is the switch.
Any readers familiar with the Jeep/Chrysler system? Do the On-Off switches commonly fail or is there some other typical demon? Or, are there other tests I can run to eliminate the switch as a problem?
Thanks!
Trouble shooting so far:
-Removed On-Off switch (this rocker switch has on-off on the top and "Set" at the bottom) and tested continuity when the "On" portion is pressed. No continuity, but I'm not positive that this proves anything.
-Tried a jumper wire on the plug contacts in the steering wheel when engine is on and truck is in gear. No joy there, but again this may prove nothing.
-Looked for a fuse, both in the pass. compartment panel and under the hood, in the "black box", but no fuse seems to exist labeled "cruise control" (??)
New on-off switch is $40 + shipping, but I sure hate to do that unless I'm at least somewhat convinced it is the switch.
Any readers familiar with the Jeep/Chrysler system? Do the On-Off switches commonly fail or is there some other typical demon? Or, are there other tests I can run to eliminate the switch as a problem?
Thanks!
#2
I believe I would have done it in reverse order. CHeck for a blown fuse in a secondary fuse box, either under the dash or on the side of the dash. I would check the owner's manual for it's exact location.
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There are only two locations for fuses in this vehicle: Kick panel on passenger side, and large "breaker box" under the hood. Neither has a fuse labeled "cruise control".
#4
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What are you using to test continuity? The switches are not on/off type switches. They are multiplexed, both steering wheel switches use the same 2 wires. A variable voltage signal is sent along the wires depending upon what is pressed. Even when not pressed, there is a resistor in line with switch, for diagnostic purposes.
If you are sure that you have a good connection then the switch is bad.
You should see one value, ohms, when the switch is not pressed. A different value when you press on/off, and a third value when you press set.
The power supply comes from the PCM.
If you are sure that you have a good connection then the switch is bad.
You should see one value, ohms, when the switch is not pressed. A different value when you press on/off, and a third value when you press set.
The power supply comes from the PCM.
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Aha - that's the information I was looking for. I didn't understand how the switch works, given there are only 2 wires - now it makes sense. I was simply using a tester to see whether a contact was made inside the switch when the button is pressed.
How do you recommend that I do the ohm test? Puncture the insulation of the wires, or would there be some location at which I can make contact without doing that?
Or, do I just check the ohm reading at the plug with the switch disconnected? (If I get a reading, then the switch is bad?)
Thanks! Good info.
How do you recommend that I do the ohm test? Puncture the insulation of the wires, or would there be some location at which I can make contact without doing that?
Or, do I just check the ohm reading at the plug with the switch disconnected? (If I get a reading, then the switch is bad?)
Thanks! Good info.