Isuzu Trooper Starter Issue

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  #1  
Old 10-14-12, 05:27 PM
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Isuzu Trooper Starter Issue

We have a 1988 2.6L Trooper II that has a no start issue. I was convinced that the battery cable was not tight on the starter and thought all I would need to do is install a new lock washer. Anyways, when getting in there I saw that the small wire to the starter(from key switch?) was disconnected. No worries, I'll plug it back up. Well, it refused to plug back up. So I took the starter off to get a good look at the spade inside the plastic housing, it was somewhat bent so I got it straight and reinstalled the starter. The wire does not seem to click on with any tightness. It will pull loose with a slight tug on the harness. What can I do to make this connection tight again?

Also, in the process I managed to shear one of 2 wires off a engine sensor, believe its the oil pressure switch. Would that broken circuit keep the starter from turning over as well? Planning to get a new switch tomorrow.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-14-12, 05:49 PM
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Does that wire snap on to what looks like a small threaded bolt coming out of the starter ?
Some starters actually use a bolt and the wire has a round clip that just pushes on. If it's a bolt you may be able to replace the end on the wire with a round loop and put a nut on the starter. The other thing you can do is go to auto parts store and check out the HELP stuff. I think I've seen that exact terminal with a short piece of wire. You could just splice on a new end.
 
  #3  
Old 10-14-12, 06:18 PM
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No, this wire is a simple spade type in a plastic connector with a kind of lever tab that's supposed to lock in a slot on other wire's connector end. I did actually look through the connector/electrical stuff up at Advance Bros. today for another connector to no avail. Thanks for the tip though.
 

Last edited by gastorms1; 10-14-12 at 07:32 PM.
  #4  
Old 10-14-12, 09:28 PM
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you could replace the wire end with a new spade. or try to bend the old inwards to tighen the prongs.
 
  #5  
Old 10-17-12, 08:06 AM
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We had an '86 Trooper II back in the day, I learned to drive in it. Fun truck.

If you want to test the starter itself to confirm that it's wiring and not a starter, jumper across from the pole where the positive wire from the battery hooks up to the pole where the solenoid wire hooks up. With the key on that should start the engine, and even with the key off should turn the starter. If it doesn't start at that point then the starter cable could be bad. I had a problem like that were my battery cable had corroded internally for the first three inches from the battery terminal, fortunately there was just enough extra to where was able to reterminate the cable with a new connector.

You can test the starter on the bench by hooking a jumper from the starter housing to the negative pole on a battery, and then using another jumper from the positive pole on the battery to the pole on the starter, then jumpering across to the solenoid pole from the positive pole. If you don't want to rev the starter but want to test the solenoid, leave off the positive wire and just take it directly to the solenoid.

If it does start when jumpering across, then the connector you've identified could be the problem or there could be a problem with the starter relay or the starter interrupt switch actuated by the clutch if a manual or the neutral safety switch if an automatic.

I would be very surprised if a sheared off oil pressure sensor would cause a no-start.
 
  #6  
Old 10-17-12, 08:29 AM
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Is the starter turning but engine not starting? You have a 2.6 which I believe is fuel injected. There is a safety feature on cars with electric fuel pumps that is dependant on oil pressure. It stops fuel from pumping in the event of an accident or stalling, so the disconnected oil pressure switch may be related to your problem.
 
  #7  
Old 10-19-12, 06:48 AM
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Thanks for all the responses guys. Here's where I am today with the "no start" Roop. Had the starter tested at the store....bad starter.....got a new one for free since it was a lifetime warranted part I bought 9 yrs ago. New lock washer on the battery lead to the starter. Got the battery tested at the store.......bad battery......got a new one for free as I was right at the limit on the 2 yr free replacement time frame. Bought a new oil pressure switch that has much sturdier looking wiring and installed it. The starter still won't hit a lick. The next thing I will try will be the battery ground cable. The vehicle has the original one which is now 25 yrs old. They're cheap and it would prolly be a good thing to replace it anyway. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll start looking at the key switch. Any other ideas guys?
 
  #8  
Old 10-19-12, 05:54 PM
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Is there a way to test this goofy relay the starting system has on these models?
 
  #9  
Old 10-19-12, 08:19 PM
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quick things to try. turn and old the key to start, move the shifter though the gears. (if auto?) if starts you have neutral safety switch bad or out alignment. next would be to while holding in start wiggle the key up and down, if starts your ignition switch is bad. but first did you get the single small wire on the stater fixed? you didn't say.
 
  #10  
Old 10-20-12, 04:19 PM
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I think I have the starter wire issue behind us now. The new replacement starter had a pigtail wire coming out of the modular plug making connection much easier. The wire from the switch pushed in easily and locked right in place. Been sick the last couple days with a virus so any work on it is going slow or not at all. I'll update as soon as possible. Thanks for all the helpful advice all.
 
  #11  
Old 10-21-12, 06:52 PM
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I just returned from my sister's house where the "no start" Trooper is and discovered another possible problem. I got a replacement battery from the store to replace the one they said was no good. I carried my battery tender over today and hooked it up to assure it was fully charged before proceeding with it. It was on charge 4 hours while I was there poking around and never went to a green light on the charger. I'm suspicious that it may be bad as well. The clerk at the store insisted on testing this battery before I left the store. He gave me a printout where it showed 800cca, its a 700cca battery. But the voltage only showed 12.49 on same printout. I didn't say anything at the time, but I thought a fully charged 12v would read somewhere in the 13's?
 
  #12  
Old 10-21-12, 09:40 PM
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12.4 is ideal on a battery off the self.
 
  #13  
Old 10-22-12, 10:11 AM
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OK, thanks Iceman, I haven't condemned this new battery yet, its back on the tender this morning, we'll see if it goes "green" by dinner anyway.
 
  #14  
Old 10-22-12, 12:41 PM
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Your alternator puts out over 13V....but a fully charged battery will only read about 12.65V. Yours was about 12.5 which indicates about 85% charged.
 
  #15  
Old 10-22-12, 06:56 PM
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Back working on the Trooper some this evening. The battery tender charged again today and the tender did finally display a green light after I figure about 5 total charging hrs. I measured the voltage and it was 13.16 so looks like we're good with this new battery. Wiggled around the ground cable in its crimped connectors and cannot see any sure fire signs of corrosion in the copper so hooked it all back to the battery and proceeded to test the switch. Plugged my meter in the wire from switch and with the key in the start position the gauge shows 1.8 volts. I was expecting 12 volts if the switch was good and nothing if the switch was bad so need help interpreting a 1.8v reading??

There's a starter relay in the fuse block, is there a way to test it? It looks ok visibly....meaning nothing charred on it if that's what they do when they fail?
 
  #16  
Old 10-22-12, 07:53 PM
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best(easy) test for a relay is to swap it with another. 1.8 is bad, so it sounds like you tested before the relay. so its sounds like the switch or lack of power to the switch.
 
  #17  
Old 10-22-12, 08:01 PM
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OK, so I'm safe spending 60 bucks or so for a new switch and that will fix it you think? I should get 12v at the meter, shouldn't I? I'm not surprised, that switch is original in a 190k vehicle.
 
  #18  
Old 10-27-12, 02:56 AM
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I finally found a new ignition switch for the Trooper at autozone.com. Ordered it early Monday AM, it was on my doorstep Friday. The install on it was much easier than what the Haynes manual calls for. They say to drill out the 2 bolts(or at least cut screw slots for a screwdriver in the heads), and remove the key switch. Not necessary.....I just used a larger sized Phillips from a jewelers type screwdriver set to remove the one screw holding the switch to the lock and it came right out.

The Trooper is still not starting, but at least we hear a "snap" in the area of the starter now when we hit the switch which we did not before with the old switch. Putting my meter on the spade inside the connector from the switch, I can't get any kind of reliable figure to register. I am really suspicious of the condition of this female side of the spade.

1) Is it possible to remove the connector from the housing and install a new one? What is the best way to splice in a new wire section to that harness?
 
  #19  
Old 11-01-12, 06:06 PM
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Well, with the new ignition switch, new starter, new battery, new ground cables installed, I am still not getting 12v to the wire to the solenoid with the key in the start position. Not even a snap or a pop at the starter now. I guess the starter relay in the fuse box might be a suspect?
 
  #20  
Old 11-23-12, 08:50 PM
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The Trooper is fixed and starting circuit functioning fine. The culprit turned out to be the neutral safety switch. I took a gamble and ordered one from Autozone Bros. com for $90(found a 20% online coupon code that worked). I was frustrated that I could not figure out how to jump this switch to test it before buying one. The harness has 6 wires coming out of it, didn't have a clue which ones I needed to jump. The backup lights are also controlled from this switch and they have been sketchy as far as coming on the last couple yrs so I kinda figured this switch might be the problem from that.

So new starter, new battery, new ground cables, new ignition switch and new neutral switch. We should be set with the starter circuit for the next 25 yrs, haha.

Thanks to all for your helpful advice and suggestions. Big thanks also to Render at Manning and Son Automotive here in beautiful Newnan, GA for helping me with the ignition switch wire to solenoid, he fabbed up a great replacement piece at no charge. (I did buy a replacement engine from Manning he installed in this Trooper 5 yrs ago). Thanks to Richard at the emissions testing place for helping me with the heater hose clamp that went south in the middle of the emmisions test today and also to Southtowne Chevrolet also here in Newnan for providing a new clamp on the house.
 
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