'06 Chevy Trailblazer a/c dies after 45 minutes

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Old 10-20-12, 12:22 PM
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'06 Chevy Trailblazer a/c dies after 45 minutes

We took that 5 hour trip last weekend and all was well with idler puller I replaced but I am faced with a new problem. I turned on the a/c and after approximately 45 minutes the temperature went from cold to non-existent and warm. Also, the blower didn't seem as powerful...for example on a blower speed of 3 it didn't even feel like it was blowing at a speed of 1. Since we were traveling at night to begin, so I just shut it off and the next day it was rainy and overcast so we didn't need the a/c. It wasn't until we came back that I got the full effect of the problem. We ran the a/c to start for approximately 45 minutes when the above mentioned problem occurred at which point we drove without a/c till we found a place to stop. The vehicle sat for about 1 hour and then we continued our drive. Again, the a/c worked for about 45 minutes, we experienced problems and I shut it off for 5 to 10 minutes and then it worked again for another 45 minutes give or take. I appreciate any help as I don't even have a clue where to start.
 
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Old 10-20-12, 04:32 PM
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Sounds like the evaporator is icing up; that would account for both loss of cooling and reduced blower output. Some vehicles (don't know if it's standard, but my wrecker has it) have a thermostatic switch with a sensor that mounts on/near the evaporator. When it senses icing it cycles the compressor off for a period . Check a wiring diagram to see if you have one (check autozone.com's repair section if you don't have a repair manual). One of the ac pro's will have to chime in on the subject of causes/preventions of the icing as far as servicing, etc.
 
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Old 10-20-12, 05:50 PM
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well, I had thermometer several times in my Silverado vents, mid summer, and I had 34 degrees coming out after maybe 10 or so minutes. That's out on the vents edge. How cold it is at evaporator is everyone's guess.
Y'all still remember 32 is freezing point, right?
 
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Old 10-20-12, 09:16 PM
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im with the-tow-guy low freon is the main cause of your problems. to help prove this leave it in fresh air not recirculate, that way hotter air is being moved over the evaporator. could give you an extra 30 mins. also (if equipped) check your cabin air filter.
 
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Old 10-20-12, 09:55 PM
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In your place I'd try adding some R-134a refrigerant, assuming that system uses it. There are fairly inexpensive top-up kits at discount auto parts stores, and there are even kits with dye and a light and glasses to find leaks if there are any occurring.

As to the nature of leaks and whether or not they should occur or not, when I bought my '95 Impala with only about 6400 miles on it a few months ago the AC (also R-134a) didn't work. That car spent the bulk of its life sitting in a climate controlled garage. My manifold gauge set barely read, something like 20psi at idle on both sides. I charged up the refrigerant, adding about 12oz. I drove the car through an Arizona summer and the AC continues to blow cold, so while it shouldn't have leaked, it appears to be fine now, and charging it up was a very inexpensive solution to attempt first before taking it somewhere. Even if something is actually wrong, spending less than $50 to try one's own solution first is probably worthwhile.
 
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Old 10-21-12, 03:09 AM
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Thanks, Iceman; I was thinking low charge was a contributing factor, but didn't want to make error.

The only time I see "32" on a thermometer is when I look at the one in the freezer.
 
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Old 10-21-12, 06:57 AM
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isn't RECIRC button a big no-no anyway? for a/c use?
 
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Old 10-21-12, 09:55 PM
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@ twx r134a is so small of a molicule that you will loose a 1/2 lb of gas over a 5 year time. for some cars thats 60% of the total amount used(honda crv)

@ukrbyk the recirc button was removed in some cars/ now labeled max a/c. so not so much a bad thing just realy working it hard.
 
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