ignition spark tester tool

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-17-13, 09:49 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
ignition spark tester tool

A buddy loaned me this type of spark tester tool of which he's never yet tried using yet and of which I am wondering about setting the adjustment: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps478dec52.jpg
There are no markings on this particular tool, although similar types I've seen advertised show a voltage scale along where the threaded portion can be adjusted for various gap distances, such as this one: Thexton 404 Adjustable Ignition Spark Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive
With this type of tester, how do I determine the proper distance to set that gap so that if I see I'm getting spark whether the spark is sufficient for my ignition system ('92 Honda Accord 2.2L)?
Also, I noticed there are "HEI" spark testers apparently for high energy ignitions (such as this one OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive or this one OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive which are "calibrated" for high energy ignition systems as opposed to other spark testers for "standard" ignitions such as this one Amazon.com: KD Tools 2757 Ignition Tester Calibrated for Standard Ignitions: Home Improvement
Any comment/advice on just how and even whether the tool I have can be set properly to test for sufficient spark for my vehicle? Thanks. Obviously I've never had experience using a spark tester, so I'd like to make sure when I do I am utilizing it correctly.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-17-13, 10:02 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 45,545
how do I determine the proper distance to set that gap so that if I see I'm getting spark whether the spark is sufficient for my ignition system
Just set the gap the same as your sparkplug gap.
It's not critical...... .040 should work fine.
 
  #3  
Old 02-17-13, 10:07 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Ok, easy enough then. Why can be the adjustment be set so seemingly exceeding far, if necessary? I mean, sheesh, it could be set all the way to about two inches! What kind of ignition would you expect a spark to jump that far? Look at this, for example, which seems to show the adjustment way out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmdoQhy2_MA I've never seen a spark plug with that big of a gap.
 
  #4  
Old 02-17-13, 10:29 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canada (near The Motor City)
Posts: 611
The spark won't jump as far as compression is increased.

Set the plug gap to what the manual says and forget it.

The proper tool for plug gap is the service manual.
 
  #5  
Old 02-17-13, 02:25 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 197
Sguall,

First thing is have you checked for blown fuses, circuit breakers, fusible links, and failed relays.

Have you ruled out a failed “Main Relay” problem?


In addition to all that’s been posted, your particular car is well known for having igniters (ICM) and coil failures causing a no spark issue.


If you have a test light pull off the cap and rotor (and sometimes a plastic cover under the rotor) and you can see the ICM.


Find the black/yellow wire going to the ICM terminal and place the end of your test light on that terminal and the other end to a good solid the battery ground.


Now turn on the ignition to the "On" position and your test light should light up solid.


Now have your helper crank the engine over while touching the same terminal. The test light should flash. If the light remains on solid the ICM is bad. If it flashes the coil is bad. A really very simple test.


At this point I highly recommend buying the replacement parts from the dealer. They last longer than the stuff you get at the local parts house (aka aftermarket).


Thank You
Amy
 
  #6  
Old 02-17-13, 02:36 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,968
parts from the dealer
I'd rather buy 3 aftermarkets than one from a dealer.........probably cost the same anyway.

Back when we rebuilt British sports cars, we had (and I still have mine) spark fine tuners. You would remove the plug, insert this tube, into which was a sight glass, then you threaded in your spark plug. You could tell by the color of spark how the engine was performing. Bluer the color, the badder it would run. Of course it was a 1970's answer to today's electronic equipment.
 
  #7  
Old 02-17-13, 03:34 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Amy Fix 62, yes I've pretty much ruled out a failed main relay, as I've just recently had a professional electronics guy I know re-solder all the contact points on the relay, just as described in this link: MarkLamond.co.uk - PGM-Fi - Main Relay
I've had good starting since then, until now when I again have a crank but no-start issue.
I just checked for spark from all wires with my spark tester, and am getting spark at all four. I have new plug wires, cap, and rotor. I cranks over strongly and will give one or maybe two good "chugs" like it's gonna catch and start, but then will not start, only cranks.
I can try doing the test described on the ignitor with a test light. If the test light does not remain on or flash while the engine is cranking, does that mean the ICM and the coil are both good? Because it was stated if it flashes that means the coil is bad, and if it remains on solid the ICM is bad. But I would think if I'm getting spark from each wire that should rule out the ICM and the coil anyway, right? Only reason to do an ignitor check would be if I had no spark? thanks
 
  #8  
Old 02-17-13, 03:48 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 197
Squall,

With respect to your last posting you seem concentrated and focused on spark delivery.

WHY IS THAT?

Fuel PSI to the plugs is what?

Cylinder compression is what?


Static and residual fuel PSI values are what?


What error codes are set?


Is exhaust system back-pressure excessive?

Thank You
Amy
 
  #9  
Old 02-17-13, 05:16 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
In reply to post #8 here,
1. My user name here is sgull not Squall (for the sake of correction, though no big deal)
2. I'm not necessarily concentrated and focused on spark delivery. I just thought I might at least check for spark initially with the issue I'm having. And it apparently is getting spark okay.
3. I don't happen to have a fuel pressure gauge, nor a compression tester, nor a diagnostic engine scanner to check for any error codes, as was asked.
4. Most I've done so far in regard to checking for fuel delivery is listening carefully for fuel pump to run a few seconds while the ignition key is turned to II (ON) while the check engine light goes on. I do observe the low humming sound at that time for a few seconds, which I understand is an indicator that the main relay is doing its job. Also, I've loosened the service bolt at the fuel filter and seen fuel trickle out, which tells me at least some fuel pressure is getting through the filter.

That's it. I'll change the fuel filter next, see if that helps.
 

Last edited by sgull; 02-17-13 at 05:38 PM.
  #10  
Old 02-17-13, 09:41 PM
iceman681's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 436
what was the original issue?
 
  #11  
Old 02-17-13, 10:40 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Iceman,
The original issue was a good strong cranking but no start issue. This was a a few weeks back. So, then, suspecting a possible failed main relay, I removed mine and inspection revealed definite obvioius cracks and general deterioration of several of the soldered contacts. I took the main relay to a guy who works on electronics and had him re-solder the contacts just as described here: MarkLamond.co.uk - PGM-Fi - Main Relay
After that, the car started right up, no problem, and I thought the problem was solved. However, a few days later, , the crank-but-no-start issue happened again. Upon inspection of the cap and rotor, I discovered the rotor edge contact had a charred area on it; here's a picture of it then: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psc5f2a38e.jpg
I had to order a new rotor, there was none for sale locally. Meanwhile I scraped off the charred area of the rotor with a fine file, back to bare metal, and tried starting with the cleaned-off rotor. Started right up, and worked fine. Again I thought the problem was solved. Then, when the new rotor arrived, I went ahead and installed it (along with a new cap too), after this chain of events which you may recall: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...wrong-fit.html
Since installing the new rotor, I'm back to the cranks but no-start issue again! Getting the old rotor piece off was rather a hard pull with my fingers, it was on so tight. Likewise, putting the new rotor onto the shaft wasn't easy either; it didn't slip on without me having to push really really hard. In fact I could only get it halfway on before I decided maybe I should sand some of the rather rusty looking metal off the end of the shaft before trying to push it on all the way. So I pulled the new rotor back off, and even though it was only halfway on, it still was very tight on there, requiring me to pull especially hard to finally get it off. After sanding the the end of the shaft a little with some fine sandpaper I was able to slip the new rotor onto the shaft all the way, but still it seemed much harder to push onto the end of the shaft than it seemed it should be. Anyway, with all that struggling around with the rotor off and on the distributor shaft I am beginning to wonder if with all that irregular force maybe I damaged the distributor and that's why I'm getting the no start now? As I mentioned, I did check with the spark tester and I am getting spark from all four plug wires. So, with seeing that I'm at least getting spark, now I'm moving on to checking for proper fuel delivery, with the idea of changing out the fuel filter, thinking (hoping) that may be the only problem now.
 

Last edited by sgull; 02-17-13 at 11:07 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-18-13, 03:50 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Update: New fuel filter didn't help. Still crank but no-start. No change.
 
  #13  
Old 02-18-13, 06:41 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
hey, sgull, let me tell you a story.
My son had 96 Civic. Yes, I know yours is Accord, right?
Car was practically indestructible. He drove her well into 200 000 plus miles. 220 I beleive. Then, on his way home one night, it just died. Fortunately, not so far away from our houses (we live very close) and I came over and towed her to my property.
Was just like you describe - cranks, no start. Good gas. No spark.
We called consylium on her, with some seasoned DYI folks. Did relay, did ignition coil, did ignitor, finally replaced distributor as a whole, with new one. No start. She had aftermarket alarm installed, took all that apart, including ignition switch. No start. Cranks, good gas, not start. Timing is fine, timing belt is fine. Put old distributor back on.
Put her on craigslist and sold 2 hrs later, for almost what he paid for her.
New owner calls him next day, says - hey, listen to this (on the cell) - turns key, cars fires right away and runs like champ. They replaced distributor - again - and apparently, got the right kind of one.
Just my 2 cents. We dumped about 2 weeks worth of frustration into that car.
 
  #14  
Old 02-18-13, 07:53 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Ukrbyk,
So if I understand the story correctly, one distributor was good for 200,000 plus miles before it just died, apparently. Then, with a replacement distributor, it wouldn't start. Then, when the new owner replaced the distributor with yet a different one, it fired right away and ran good. And somehow it was learned/discovered that the previous two distributors were the wrong kind?
I'm assuming then that the story is your suggestion that it's possible my distributor is the wrong kind, and maybe I should consider that as the source of my current issue here? One difference between the issue you described with the '96 Civic and my issue with the '92 Accord is that I am getting spark, as I've mentioned. You said the '96 Civic had no spark. One definite similarity between the two issue though is that I've dumped about two weeks of frustration into my car too.
By the way, please if you don't mind explain/define the word "consylium". I've never heard of that and didn't have any luck finding a definition. Curious about that.
 
  #15  
Old 02-19-13, 08:17 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
I am just telling you the sequence. And what the new owner said over the phone. That the OEM one died above 200K miles, is no wonder. Why THE BRAND NEW FROM THE BOX did not work, is everyone's guess. Of course, there's question of how honest the new owner was. Who knows. But the 2nd one was ALL NEW, NO RE-MANUFACTURED PARTS, I still have it here. Not your part number though, I checked as soon as I saw your picture. But they have 3 crucial parts inside of it - ignitor, coil, and something else, buried deep inside, that will give you no-start situation as in - no spark.
 
  #16  
Old 02-19-13, 08:20 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
Here it is. Still can't sell it

http://i41.************/2rhs1o9.jpg
 
  #17  
Old 02-19-13, 08:22 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
Forgot it's Photobucket site:

 
  #18  
Old 02-19-13, 08:38 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
At this point I'm not suspecting my distributor is the cause of my no-start issue; because I'm getting spark, from all my plug wires. My distributor is an aftermarket replacement for the original factory equipped one which gave out I dunno probably 8-9 years ago if I remember correctly. I still am stumped why my car won't start. Don't even know if I should call consylium on her or not.
 
  #19  
Old 02-20-13, 06:50 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
well, if you have spark, and gas, then it's timing. As in - timing is either off, or ECM is bad.
 
  #20  
Old 02-20-13, 07:26 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
I noticed a hairline crack in this part on the distributor (you can see it where I'm pointing in the photo): http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps53a55535.jpg I've been informed this part may be what is called the top dead center sensor. Also, I noticed my new rotor has a hairline crack in it too. It's a crack only within one of the "webs" of the plastic part, and it doesn't extend from or to any of the metal of the rotor, just within the plastic. Here's a photo of my old rotor, where I am pointing with the pen to the location of where the crack is on my new rotor (new rotor still on distributor). The photo is rather dark but still viewable: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps70820934.jpg
I'd like an opinion as to whether it could be very likely either of these cracked parts could be preventing the car from starting (I get cranking but no start. It chugs once or twice like it might be ready to catch and start during cranking, but will not start). I checked spark from all plug wires with a spark tester, and get spark on all wires, but am not experienced enough to tell whether the spark is abnormal; seems kind of like an interrrupted sparking to me as I observe it while cranking. Any comment about this appreciated.
 
  #21  
Old 02-21-13, 02:58 PM
ukrbyk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA/ Pacific NW
Posts: 3,301
Pull all spark plugs out, and take butane torch to them. As in - get tips white hot, until stuff smokes off them. THEN try starting her up. You tried so many times, that bet ya, plugs are simple flooded and dirty.
If it has spark, even weak, and it's catching - worry about dizzy later.
How is plug wires?
Do this:
charge battery well, fix some soapy water, wait till it's pitch dark, pop the hood open, and ask someone to start cranking the engine, while you spray soapy water onto engine and distributor and plug wires. See what happens.
 
  #22  
Old 02-21-13, 08:59 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
My plug wires are brand new, as is my distributor cap, and rotor (although rotor as described my last post this thread). When checking spark from the wires with my spark tester, to prevent flooding while cranking I unplugged the wiring connector of the injector resistor (cutting power to the fuel injectors). Anyway, I did pull all the plugs and they looked okay, not wet or particularly dirty or abnormal. As I mentioned/described, the car would start until I installed the new rotor; since then just the cranking but no-start, with a chug or two like it might catch but that's it.
I tried doing a check for codes. I have OBD1 and used the method of jumping the terminals on the service connector and then watching code/blinks on the check engine light. I seemed to get alternating trouble codes 15 and 16.
I get one long blink followed by six short blinks, then I get one long blink followed by five short blinks; those two sequences over and over. The OBD1 trouble diagnostic code information I have says 15 means "ignition output signal", and 16 means "fuel injectors".
Does that make any sense? Comments please?
 
  #24  
Old 02-22-13, 08:59 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Thanks for the links ukbryk. I did a little searching/researching myself too.
In regard to the first link talking about the code 15 ignition output signal, I came across that one too. That thread points to the ignitor being at fault, which of course I should suspect as the culprit. The ignitor comes out easily and I can take it to the auto parts store here in town and they will test it for free. I'll do that tomorrow.
In regard to the second link talking about code 16 fuel injectors, I am suspecting the reason I'm getting that code is as I mentioned in my last post here I had unplugged the wiring connector of the injector resistor (cutting power to the fuel injectors) when I was checking for spark with my spark testers while cranking the engine. So even though I have that connector plugged in again, I think the code still shows temporarily because it hasn't cleared yet (the car hasn't run since the test). Likely once I get the car started and running again, that code (16) should disappear.
In regard to the third link, rotor removal help, I came across that also. I was definitely having difficulty removing my rotor, but it seems in my case it was just due to it being really tight on the shaft,and not really sure why; there did seem to be some rust on the shaft and I sanded it off and that seemed to help some. That article describes a set screw on those model Hondas, but on my '92 Accord it's just a push-on rotor, no set screw to deal with.
In regard to the last link, I've been reading that one over and over and over many times since you first provided it to me (and thanks again) way back on this thread (see your post there #6) http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...ank-start.html I have that tegger site bookmarked, very helpful! I ended up after that getting my main relay re-soldered, and the car started and ran fine after that, until now my new crank but no-start issue. So with my code 15 now, I guess it might be ignitor, we'll see. I was getting spark so I was of the understanding that if there is spark the ignitor is okay, but perhaps I'm wrong about that. It said that here though: Part 2 -Honda Accord, Prelude Distributor Test under "if you get spark at all spark plug wires".
 
  #25  
Old 02-23-13, 05:59 AM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: North Central Indiana
Posts: 912
This is a long shot but I have had a couple cases that acted like this and was cured by a new set of plugs. I know it seems impossible that all plugs would fail at once but it happens.
 
  #26  
Old 02-23-13, 01:55 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Update: Ignitor checks out fine on NAPA ignitor test equipment.
 
  #27  
Old 02-23-13, 04:13 PM
iceman681's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 436
have you tried putting a timing light on it? just to see that belt has not jumped/or distributor sending it out at the wrong time(dont forget to short the timing conector). if your using that spark tester i would double the gap to test it properly and see if your spark a nice blue color. there is no compression to over come in the tester so you have make it work harder. a good spark really should jump at-least an inch. have seen where the spark is week and the compression literally blows it out. have you ohmed out your wires? new does not always mean good. check strength of spark at coil compared to at wires.
 
  #28  
Old 02-23-13, 10:19 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
Update: Okay, I got the car to start. And I really didn't do anything that I know of to make it start. But it only started once, and now, trying to start it again, it is back to the same cranks and maybe will chug a time or two, but only cranks but will not start. And I no longer am getting any codes.
In regard to the code 16 (fuel injectors) I mentioned I was getting (in addition to the code 15), I figured the reason I was getting the code 16 was because last week when I was doing the spark test with the spark tester I decided to unplug the injector resistor connector while cranking the engine to prevent flooding during the cranking/testing, and so the code 16 was probably still stored in the ECM and hadn't cleared because I never actually started the car and got it running since the test.
In regard to the code 15 I was getting, I was informed that this code can mean either the ignitor is bad or the wiring to the ignitor from the ECM is shorted/open. That's why I thought I'd at least get the ignitor tested.
Here's the sequence of events since I last posted:
I went ahead and re-installed the ignitor after having it tested today (it tested good).
I decided to clear the codes stored in the ECM. So I disconnected the negative cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so, then reconnected. Then I checked for code(s) again, and there were none.
I decided for the h... of it, I'll try starting the car. And what do you know, it started right up, easily. I let it run a little while, then shut it off a while. Then tried starting it again after a while. But no, it was right back to the exact behavior of cranks, chugs maybe once, but then just cranks only and but will not start. I checked for any codes again, but get none.
Needless to say I'm baffled. It seems a good sign that the car did at least start (although just once), and that there is no code 15 (or any code) now.
 
  #29  
Old 02-24-13, 05:31 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 197
Sgull,

You said that the engine is back to cranking and not starting. Well you can use that to your advantage and come to a resolution. In other words you use the fact that the engine is cranking and NOT starting to determine what is NOT reaching the plugs. Is it "Spark" that is not reaching the plugs? Is it "Fuel" that is not reaching the plugs, or is it BOTH. To help determine which it is use a "Fuel Pressure Gauge", an "In-line Spark Tester" and a "Noid Light". You can borrow these tools for FREE from Auto Zone, by taking advantage of their "Free Loaner Tool Service". Be sure to follow all the instructions that come with each tool. BTW: Have you "Ruled Out" a "Main Relay" issue?

Thank You
Amy
 
  #30  
Old 02-24-13, 01:14 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
AMY FIX 62,
In reply to your post here (#29): I believe I have ruled out a main relay issue. See my post this thread #11. A few weeks back, then, suspecting a possible failed main relay, I removed mine and inspection revealed definite obvious cracks and general deterioration of several of the soldered contacts. I took the main relay to a guy who works on electronics and had him re-solder the contacts just as described here: Relay Repair He did a nice professional job on the re-soldering job, and after that the car started right up. But since then I've got the same cranks but no-start issue. It crossed my mind that maybe the repair of the relay was insufficient, but further reading about it indicated to me that the relay it was indeed doing its job, as I could definitely hear the fuel pump come on and run for 2-3 secs and go off when turning the key to on (and I continue to observe this, each and every time I try starting).
In regard to further testing with any of the loaner tools you mention, in my small rural Alaskan town we have no Autozone from which I could borrow these. There is a NAPA and a Car Quest here; NAPA has no such program, and Car Quest has such a program but out of those tools you mention (for loan) they have only a noid light test kit: CARQUEST - Product Information:Alltrade Tools Llc - LOANER TOOLS Deluxe Noid Test Light Set - Kit 33 Thanks!
 
  #31  
Old 02-24-13, 03:51 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 197
Sgull,

I’m not going back to read all the other posts.

DON'T HAVE TO.

The fact that you live in Alaska really means nothing.

At this time the “Basics” have yet to be “Ruled Out” or “Ruled In” for that matter!!!


BASICS, BASICS, BASICS, BASICS!!!

I “Can’t” stress them enough!!!

BEFORE you go looking for a BIGGER problem. (check out as per below).


Is “Fuel” reaching all the plugs?

Is “SPARK” REACHING ALL THE PLUGS?


Is “Cylinder Compression” adequate in ALL cylinders?


Is there NOT an “Excessive Back-Pressure” issue?


YES to all the above???


Then you have a “Timing" issue!!!

Case Closed!!!

Thank You
Amy
 
  #32  
Old 02-24-13, 04:04 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
AMY FIX 62
Well I'm not going to "argue" with you here in bold text. That's not my intent. I was merely replying to the specifics of your responses, such as the suggestion about borrowing testing tools from Autozone, and whether I had ruled out the main relay, etc. Giving a little background on what I've tried to do so far I thought might be helpful, but to those who know it all probably not. So, never mind, thanks, or "case closed" as you say.
 
  #33  
Old 03-03-13, 05:42 AM
GregH's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 9,733
sgul, i can see your frustration but I think that within 32 posts you should have been steered to a solution.
Although interesting, anecdotal stories about other peoples problems can be confuaing and you need to stick to sound diagnostic methods.

If you go step by step as suggested here you will find the problem.


Anecdotal story alert!

Your problem is similar to my successfully locating an intermittent crank sensor on a Grand Cherokee.
I needed learn how the components worked and where to probe with a meter so when it quit I could check it at that time.
 
  #34  
Old 03-03-13, 09:33 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,592
GregH, I discovered the coil was bad. I removed the coil and checked resistance with a multimeter according to specs in the manual, and found it had a short.

Anecdotal story alert!
My nephew also happens to have a Jeep that had a similar issue and fix as you mentioned. His is a '93 Grand Wagoneer. We tried unsuccessfully everything we could think of to get the thing to start or figure out what was wrong with it. Finally, somebody suggested we change out the crank position sensor. So we did that, and guess what? It started. And has started every time since.
 
  #35  
Old 03-03-13, 11:17 AM
GregH's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 9,733
Thanks for the update.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes