Ticking in 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6

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  #1  
Old 03-07-13, 07:24 PM
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Ticking in 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6

I have a jeep that is long in the tooth...211,000 miles. It was running a little loud when I had it in for an oil change last month and they told me I had an exhaust leak. Just a couple weeks ago it developed a REAL loud ticking sound. It is present at all times when the car is running, but especially bad when I step on the gas and not quite as bad when I am coasting. I took it in to another shop and they said it is an internal problem in the engine and would require a new engine (after looking at it for like 2 minutes). Any thoughts on what this might be? I obviously will not put a new engine in it since it would have only been worth ~1500 in good condition.

I have already put a down payment down on a 2013 Grand Cherokee, but just trying to figure out if I should scrap/donate it for a couple hundred or try to get more out of it somehow.

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-07-13, 08:30 PM
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thicken the oil up a bit and hope for the best. my dad ran his for another 50,000 after his ticking started. of corse the last 5,000 it turned,developed a horrible knock.
 
  #3  
Old 03-08-13, 04:04 AM
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Brian6484,

It's an upper valve train noise. Very common on the said vehicle. With the mileage posted remove the heads and have them rebuilt. Don't forget lifters and push-rods as well.

Thank You
Amy
 
  #4  
Old 03-08-13, 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the input thus far. I have found a few similar postings where the suggested culprit is sticking valve lifters. The suggested solutions range from thickening the oil/adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer, adding seafoam to the oil or adding valve lifter treatment.

Seems the feedback on thickening the oil is 50/50 on whether it is good or bad to do.

It seems logical that a sticky valve or lifter is a potential problem. What is the correct step to try to treat this?

Would it be to add hydraulic lifter fluid or Lucas oil stablilizer directly into the oil and running it for while and then changing oil completely?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #5  
Old 03-08-13, 10:32 AM
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they already told you. valves in lifters stick as tiny passages get filled with crud. Thickening oil only makes it worse. Luicas oil stabilizer, though #2 on my book magic potion, will do not much based on same premise.
Do Seafoam. Pour it in, drive on it 500 miles, drain oil, refill with cheap oil in proper weight, drive around for about 15-20 miles, drain that oil - will come out pitch black - then replace filter and refill with good quality oil.
 
  #6  
Old 03-09-13, 03:49 AM
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Gentlemen,

I have no faith in snake oils. Additives are a billion dollar a year money making scam. The issue mentioned here is common for this vehicle and I see it frequently. Mechanical intervention is the only way to repair it permanently.

Thank You
Amy
 
  #7  
Old 03-09-13, 06:13 AM
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I might be inclined to try something less intensive if the vehicle had 111k instead of 211k on the ticker. If you're planning on keeping it around for a while, head job probably way to go.
 
  #8  
Old 03-18-13, 04:39 AM
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If you are going to spend money on it I would fix the ex leak first, then go from there.
 
  #9  
Old 03-18-13, 05:49 AM
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I will add my voice to those who say don't bother.
I am not an experienced mechanic but rather experienced at nursing old junk!

If you were to try to repair a mechanical problem with a pourable solution the best I have found is "Hope In A Bottle".
IOW It really doesn't matter which one you buy.
 
  #10  
Old 03-20-13, 10:56 AM
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Amy is right guy's...

Very common problem with high mileage Jeep...If you are not going to spend the money to fix it right. At least use a good engine flush.. ie. Risilone to help clean out the engine. May need to do this acouple times depending on the lack of maintenance.

Refill it with a good quality dual viscosity oil I suggest Castrol 20w50 GTX. Changing the filter at each flush and refill.

Good luck, personally I would sell it as a hunting wagon and buy a lower mileage vehicle

You going to start spending a lot more than it is worth


Alan
 
  #11  
Old 03-23-13, 12:08 AM
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Case in point. Several years ago ,I owned a 1969 Mustang fastback (a real track burner-single carb, AT, 6cyl) and it was blowing bluish grey smoke (indication of worn, cracked or broken piston rings or worn valve guides). At the time I did not no much about working on cars so I bought a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Well the car started really running rough and finally died. I found out by removing some of the spark plugs that they were severely fouled with the "snake oil". It is sad that there are people in the world who want to make a buck off of some unsuspecting soul. You had a very valid point.
 
  #12  
Old 04-10-13, 02:08 PM
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This Jeep, which is an inline 6 not a V6, has a cylinder head which is prone to failing especially at higher mileages. If you google 0331 cylinder head you will come up with a ton of information. They have a very high tendancy to crack between the #3 and #4 cylinders. If you take off the valve cover, the crack is usually very obvious. I would do this before thinking about a rebuild. This run of motors also had weak piston skirts which started off as a tapping noise and progressively got worse until the piece snapped and locked the motor. With that kind of mileage, rebuilding the heads only will cause the bottom end to fail soon thereafter. If I were you, I would look to getting a low mileage used motor and dropping it it. When you price out the parts to rebuild an I6, it becomes almost cost prohibitive. You can try a seafoam treatment and it may work. However, I have found that it will push a marginally operational motor over the edge.

Sean
(I am not a mechanic, but a jeep enthusiast and have owned several jeeps, both modified and stock for the last 15 years or so)
 
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