96 Toyota corolla/trouble starting

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  #1  
Old 04-18-13, 11:58 AM
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96 Toyota corolla/trouble starting

My 96 Toyota corolla with 42,000 miles has been running fine..it just turned off by itself. We had it towed to my sons house. He has worked on many cars before, even rebuilding engines.. He replaced the fuel pump with a used one and it worked fine for 2 days..he replaced the fuel filter and it started again, but won't stay started. He said the gas tank is rusty and needs to be replaced and we will do that when the starting issue is resolved.. Any thoughts about what it could be now?
 
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  #2  
Old 04-18-13, 08:05 PM
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96, hah... Should have OBD2 port, right? Why don't you start there?
Rusty tank? That I do not know. I am not sure, when they introduced inner bladder liners inside of tanks, to actually prevent that. You might be chasing ghost there.
My hunch is - main relay or ignition lock. I know it's a Toyota, but Japanese have tendency to have same design philosophy, and many Japanese have issues with main relay.
Internet says:
YOU HAVE A MAIN RELAY,FUEL PUMP,AND IGNITION RELAY CHECK ALL OF THEM WITH TEST LIGHT IF YOU ARE GETTING POWER JUMP THE RELAY OFF AND SEE IF CAR CRANKS
 
  #3  
Old 04-19-13, 04:07 AM
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Stemstostay,

This is not a rust issue, and in your particular vehicle rust in the fuel tank is not common. I’m sure your son had a perfectly sound and logical reason for installing a used fuel pump. If you stop and analyze your own statement, you’ll see that after the used pump was installed the car ran fine. Now two days later it won’t stay running. Well that’s a pretty clear indication that the used pump was defective to begin with and that failure of the pump was imminent. Using a “Fuel Pressure Gauge” measure the “Static Fuel Pressure”. Static fuel pressure is the fuel “PSI” with the ignition key on and engine off. If the pressure is not between 39 and 46 PSI replace the fuel pump with a NEW ONE. It would also be a good idea to do a scan for error codes and if codes are present, you should post them so they can be seen. I say that because an excessive exhaust back-pressure issue (catalytic converter problem for example) is another reason why the car may not stay running.

Thank You
Amy
 
  #4  
Old 04-19-13, 10:18 AM
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Second the thoughts on used fuel pump. Generally speaking electrical/electronic components are not good candidates for being replaced with used ones.
 
  #5  
Old 04-20-13, 09:59 AM
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The fuel pump was replaced with a used one as it was not as expensive to see if this was the problem. And when the car quit the first time, the fuel pump was replaced again..so don't really feel that this is the problem.
 
  #6  
Old 04-20-13, 02:22 PM
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Stemstostay,

Thank you for your last posting. Unfortunately your posting does not answer the many questions that continue to go unanswered. It really is in your own best interest to answer those unanswered questions, so you can be helped further. You can't speculate with your type of issue. Neither should you guess or take ANYTHING for granted. You MUST answer the unanswered questions, so that accurate repair information can be posted for you.

Thank You
Amy
 
  #7  
Old 04-20-13, 04:03 PM
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What questions do you want me to answer for you?
 
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Old 04-20-13, 04:54 PM
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Stemstostay

The questions were already posted. Rather than have you go back and look for them (for your convenience) I’ll post them here again for you.

Is the “Static Fuel Pressure’ (key on engine off) between 39 and 46 PSI?

Are there any engine error codes? If so post them so they can be seen.

Has an excessive exhaust back-pressure issue been ruled out?

I'm also adding one more question, that is has a timing belt issue been ruled out?

Thank You
Amy
 
  #9  
Old 04-20-13, 05:06 PM
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All are fine thank you.. What else do you suggest?
 
  #10  
Old 04-20-13, 05:11 PM
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Stemstostay,

Is spark reaching the plugs?

Is cylinder compression adequate in ALL cylinders?

Are the fuel injectors firing?

Thank You
Amy
 
  #11  
Old 04-20-13, 06:00 PM
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Yes to the first 2 questions and the fuel injectors are not because the car is not running..
 
  #12  
Old 04-20-13, 06:23 PM
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well, simply pull the plugs out and smell them. If they smell of gas, you have gas down into combustion chambers.
Also, plugs may be flooded by now, with no start effect.
If you have fuel on sparks, and you have spark, and your air filter is not a dam to air, then either your ignition timing is off by a mile,(slipped belt) or your ECM is d-e-d, dead.
Like I said before - it's 96 model, READ CODES. Any parts store will rent you scanner for free, they do not charge. Do YOUR homework. No one from here will not be able to pin point what is going on, without actually having hands on your car.
Diagnostic flowchart for a car that won't start or stalls - Troubleshooting for the starter, spark failure and the fuel pump
 
  #13  
Old 04-20-13, 06:45 PM
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Stemstostay,

You stated that you can't confirm if the injectors are firing or not because the engine is not running.

Well that is not true and it's wrong information.

All you need is an engine that will crank (when the ignition key is turned).

Go to an Auto Zone Store and use their "Free Tool Loaner Service"

Get a tool called a "Noid Light".

Follow the instructions that come with the tool.

Check each fuel injector one at a time, and take your time and don't rush.

Just so you know a "Noid Light" (is a tool) that is used to confirm that fuel injectors are firing.

Again all you need is an engine that cranks.

Post the results.

Thank You
Amy
 
  #14  
Old 04-20-13, 07:45 PM
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Stemstostay,

Also, right now you’re feeling a bit confused and lost, so let me make this simple for you.

Just so you know as long as a motor vehicle (like yours) is receiving:

Fuel to all the plugs.

Spark to all the plugs.

Cylinder compression is adequate in all cylinders.

There is not an excessive back-pressure issue.

There is not a timing belt or timing chain issue.

IT MUST START!!!

Thank You
Amy
 
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