Cracking sound when door opened or shut

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  #1  
Old 04-28-13, 11:10 AM
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Cracking sound when door opened or shut

I have 2003 Honda Accord, 4 door, 4 cyl, manual xmission. When I open the driver's side door, I hear a cracking sound. The same thing when I shut the door. It used to happen only once in a while. Now it happens almost every time. I noticed that in addition to the two hinges, there's a rod (for lack of a better name), one end of which is attached to the door jamb. The other end passes through a hole in the side of the door. How it is attached to the inside of the door is hidden from view. Does anyone know the purpose of this rod? Comparing the driver's side to the passenger side, I noticed that the passenger's side is completely covered in black plastic but on the driver's side, this plastic seems to be broken. Could the damage to the rod be the cause of the cracking sound? I'm attaching 2 pics. The first one shows the rod in relationship to the two hinges. The second shows a close-up of the rod.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-28-13, 12:45 PM
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Anuum12,

With regard to the contact points in the pictures you posted, it's time to use some WD-40 to lubricate those points and the door hinges as well. Broken pieces of plastic on the door latch means the latch must be replaced. The rod is a limiter to keep you from hyper extending the door

Thank You
Amy
 
  #3  
Old 04-28-13, 12:46 PM
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I think that rod is just to keep the door from opening too far. How well does the door fit and close?
 
  #4  
Old 04-28-13, 07:31 PM
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Hi Amy, I did use WD40 but it made no difference. The plastic is broken on the rod, not the latch. As an experiment, I put my finger on the rod when closing the door (without slamming it shut to avoid a bruised finger), at the exact time of the cracking sound, the rod moved erratically as well. So it looks like there is something wrong with the rod.

Hi Marksr, the door fits just fine. It is not misaligned nor out of adjustment. It doesn't look like the rod is completely broken. The driver door swings out as much in the extreme open position as the passenger side door.

Anup
 
  #5  
Old 04-28-13, 08:53 PM
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I was working on the mother in laws 2004 Camry yesterday and found this exact same problem. The part you point out looks identical to her Toyota. The two nuts on the door were loose, I could turn them by hand. Tightened with a socket and good to go. Maybe yours has the same problem.
 
  #6  
Old 04-28-13, 09:15 PM
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That rod is to limit travel on the door. There are typically plastic bushings on it if the bushings wear out it can cause that rod to bind and pop and even cause the door to stay open. I have had good luck pulling the mechanism apart and going down to the local parts house and finding a bushing that will work.
 
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Old 04-29-13, 11:13 AM
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I get a popping noise from my work van, the door and fender are slightly misaligned and the door rubs the fender, and as it slightly binds it makes such a noise.
 
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Old 04-29-13, 11:28 AM
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Anuum12,

With regard to the contact points in the pictures you posted, it's time to use some WD-40 to lubricate those points and the door hinges as well. Broken pieces of plastic on the door latch means the latch must be replaced. The rod is a limiter to keep you from hyper extending the door

Thank You
Amy
I'd agree with all of what you said, except the WD-40. You're wasting your time and $$ using it. Use a lithium greese or even a bearing/chassy greese, and it'll last a lot longer.

To the OP,
Have someone open and close your door slowly. Look at the gap where the door comes close to the front quarter pannel. It may be touching and this would be the result of sagging hinges.
It could be just a need for a bit of greese, but I would check for this as well. My 08 SRT4 started doing this, and I found it to be the door touching the quarter pannel ever so lightly at one point in the swing open. Was fixed with a new hinge (warrenty).
 
  #9  
Old 04-29-13, 02:23 PM
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For the record the part described is called a 'check link'. Without regular lubrication they can break in some model vehicles, but I have seen vehicles less than 3 months old break them depending on the material they are made from and overall quality of the part. It seems more and more that non critical parts are being designed and sourced to save money and weight, and not with the thought of ever lasting the life of the vehicle.
 
  #10  
Old 05-12-13, 07:51 PM
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I checked out some the possibilities mentioned. The nuts are not loose, nor is the door rubbing against anything. My next step is to remove the door trim and get to the side of the rod that is concealed. I've ordered a plastic trim removal kit from Amazon.
 
  #11  
Old 06-15-13, 04:03 PM
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Disassembly issues

Ok, I did remove the trim this afternoon. However, this did not reveal the other side of the rod. See the first two picture. I don't know how to get to the inside of the door in order to remove and replace the limit rod. Does anyone have any suggestions?

For the time being I've put the trim back again. I've noticed that the cable that runs to the inside door handle will not stay in the "jaw" that's designed to hold it and keeps slipping out. See the next two pics taken through the gap between the door and the trim. The white plastic has a groove cut around it, which is supposed to slip into a metal "jaw" encased inside the black plastic, which is mounted on the inside of the door trim. I can't open the door from the inside any more. Any ideas on how I can take care of this issue?
 
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Old 07-06-13, 01:14 PM
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I discovered that I had to remove the white sheet of weather insulation to get to the inside. I was then able to replace the rod. Now I don't hear a noise any more.

As far as the inside handle is concerned, I was not pushing the white sleeve all the way back into the jaw. Once this was done, the door handle started working fine.
 
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