2000 Expedition. Won't crank


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Old 05-14-13, 03:44 PM
J
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2000 Expedition. Won't crank

My 99 Expedition does nothing when key is turned except dash lights come on. Headlights working, vent fan works, dome lights work etc. I took out starter and had it tested. Good. I checked that 12 plus volts are getting to starter. Good. I pulled the "big relays" out of both fuse boxes one at a time and replaced with a new one. Same result. What else should I do? Where is the neutral safety switch and how do I test it. I'm not a mechanic obviously, but can find my way Around with a little coaching. Thank a ton
 
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Old 05-14-13, 05:08 PM
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Try starting the car in neutral instead of park.

Ford uses an additional starting relay which is protected by an additional fuse. I believe there are two starting relays in the line.

When everything is quiet.....and you turn the key to start..... do you hear any clicks ?
 
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Old 05-15-13, 05:17 AM
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Thanks. It will not start in neutral or park. No sound when I turn the key anywhere near the starter. A couple of faint noises elsewhere after the key turn that I ASSUME have nothing to do with the start system. So where are the 2 relays? I haven't messed with any outside of the 2 main fuse boxes. Thanks again.....
 
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Old 05-15-13, 12:46 PM
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It Starts! The culprit was the starter relay. Ford calls it a "starter solenoid" which confused me. I thought that was the solenoid on the starter. Anyway I didn't even try to test the old one.....just ran to Autozone for part F492 and paid $20 for a new one cause there wasn't much left to check. I spent way top much time on this because the terminology threw me off.....have to spend the research time and post to doityourself.com BEFORE opening the tool box. I other lesson I hadn't heard before: the relay probably started failing when the vehicle was jump started a couple days before it failed. The theory I heard was it may not have been grounded properly to the frame instead of using the negative battery terminal and that contributed to the failure. Not sure but makes se sense to me. Thanks. Good luck
 
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Old 05-15-13, 08:20 PM
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Oh Crrud....New ..related..problem

OK, It starts and idles smoothly. Was fine in reverse, BUT when I put it in Drive the engine ran incredibly rough and the "overdrive off" light on the shifter flashes. When I put it in 2nd instead of Drive the performance improved tremendously....not perfect but was pretty good and the overdrive off light stopped flashing. What the heck is going on?
 
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Old 05-16-13, 04:14 AM
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Probably a good time to get the codes read if there are any; may give you a clue.
 
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Old 05-16-13, 03:52 PM
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jjedlic,

Could very well just be nothing more than a secondary issue. In other words:

Secondary means how long did you have the battery disconnected while trying to troubleshoot your starting issue?

Secondary means, after you resolved your starting issue how much time did you spend just driving your truck around normally to see if the “OD Light” Light” issue simply cleared itself?

Secondary means have you ruled out an “Idle Relearn”?

Have you considered that your current issue is just a coincidence that it showed up now right after you resolved the starting issue?

Is the transmission fluid level full?

What’s the color and condition of the fluid?

Is the fluid due (or long overdue) to be changed?

The flashing “Overdrive” light means that your trucks TCM (transmission control module) is storing one or more error codes. A scan of the TCM (done with a scan tool) needs to be done to determine what the error code (or codes are). It also means that there is an error code (or codes) are stored in your trucks PCM (power control module aka “Computer”). This also needs to be scanned. Have the scans done and post the error codes here so they can be seen. “Slip Fault” and Torque Converter Slip’ codes are common, and relate to the “Torque Converter”.

Thank You
AMY
 
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Old 05-16-13, 07:53 PM
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Great Advice

Thanks for some great advice. I really appreciate it. I tried to follow all of it. AMY and Tow Guy did all you suggested this evening.... Battery was unhooked and on for 5 days. 48 hours at one point. I drove around for 15 minutes in 2nd gear (too rought to run in D) with no improvement, but got hot so I could check the Transmission fluid...good level, good color, no bubbles, etc. I all the under hood fuses again and found one that was blown that had nothing to do with transmission or starter, but of course replaced it and tried the test drive again....no improvement, but this time I drove to A@#$Zone.

They put the code reader on it and it spit out 25 CODES!!!! Oh Crap. They were all over the board from "Shift Solenoid I Perfomance" to "Heater Oxygen Sensor" to "purge vent solenoid circut condition" to clutch solenoid conditio" to transmission system fault" to "EPC short circuited" to "TCC circuit condition." I was intimidated big time. BUT I drank a beer and finally noticed what you guys probably saw right away: almost all of them had some kind of open circuit related to the transmission.

So mostly out desperate need to try something I pulled the automatic transmission fuse again out of the power box under the hood. It looked fine, but I tested it with multimeter and it had no continuity! I replaced it and EUREKA the "Overdrive Off" light didn't flash. Still ran kinda rough around the neighborhood so I headed back toward AZ. As it warmed up it got much smoother. I had AZ clear the codes and drove around for 20 minutes...Check engine never came back on and Overdrive Off never flashed AND it runs smoothly!!

Thank you very much. You folks are awesome.
 
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Old 05-18-13, 03:20 AM
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jjedlic,

Thank you and you're welcome, I'm glad that all of here and I were able to help you.

Amy
 
 

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