2000 Dodge Intrepid 3.2L V6

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  #1  
Old 09-30-13, 06:19 AM
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2000 Dodge Intrepid 3.2L V6

I have always changed the oil in all of my cars at 4000 miles. So it was time for the Intrepid to have its 4000 mile oil change, which went without incident. It happens to be my wife's car & no matter what I say, she will not part with it. She drives it to work the day after I change the oil and she said it ran a little rough for a minute or two but then ran fine. On the way home from work, she complained that all of a sudden as she was slowing down and had started to make a left hand turn onto street, the car just stalled. No warning lights, no check engine light, nothing. So I checked the oil level, which was dead on and still brand new in appearance, so I told her I have no explanation other than to drive it the following day & see what happens. It stalled once after being on the highway for 50 or so miles, but then again, as she was slowing down to make a turn, it stalled again. The car starts right back up, no smoke, no sputtering, it sounds fine, except I have to listen to her complain about the stalling issue. I was brought up with the knowledge that a car needs 3 things to run: gas, spark & air. So I changed out the air filter and put in 6 brand new spark plugs gapped to factory specs. Then the next day, the same stalling complaint. I pull the battery out, take it to local store that does free battery tests, results come back fine. I then take car to local store and they test alternator, tests fine. They recommended that I pull the alternator to be absolutely positive it was functioning properly as they could put it on a bench test machine and test it, again its fine. I've cleaned all battery cable wires, terminals & grounds that are connected to firewall. I can't see well enough to check the ground cable between the engine and the chassis but sprayed it with some WD40 just for laughs. I even put the battery on a trickle charger over night & sent the wife off to work and she got 20 miles away & called complaining of the stalling again. I have an appointment at the local Dodge dealership for a computer diagnostics test for Wednesday. However, today is Monday & I'm sick of her whining, I would truly appreciate any other tips, tricks or suggestions, short of a .357 through the engine block. Thanks one & all!

Regards,
fnolteiii
 
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  #2  
Old 09-30-13, 07:37 PM
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sounds like classic idle issue. first thing id do is to clean out the throttle body. over time it builds up gunk and the ecm leans this and opens the idle control motor more to makeup for the loss. if and when then battery losses the learned gunk, it tries to run it at factory specs. making it stall when hot and at idle.
 
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Old 10-01-13, 05:10 AM
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Perhaps I forgot to mention that cleaning the throttle body was one of the very last things I performed. I removed the cowl covering the wiper motor as its not easily visible or accessible to get a spray can of throttle body cleaner between the throttle body & firewall. It was, as you suggested, rather gunked up. It seemed to run better but then the wife ran to the mall & I got a call that the frequency with which the stalls were occurring, had increased instead of decreased. For lack of knowledge or simple frustration, I removed the alternator & battery and took then to Advance auto & had them bench tested once again. Both units passed, however, the battery was slightly low. I was going to replace it out of frustration but the store clerk suggested simply re-installing it & hooking it up to a trickle charger. I ran it on the charger until the charging needle went down to zero. When first hooked up, it only went to 2 when plugged in which implies to me that it was almost 100% charged. If you can think of anything I might have missed, by all means please p oint them out to me as I was trying to avoid a service charge at the local Dodge Dealer, especially after reading on the forums that many other owners, who are experiencing the same issue as I am, get no help or satisfaction from the Dealership. I simply cannot afford to have the diagnostics run and have the results inconclusive. I also cannot afford to simply start replacing parts randomly until they finally get the right one. Thanking you in advance for you continued help and suggestions.

Regards,
fnolteiii
 
  #4  
Old 10-01-13, 05:47 AM
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does it stall on acelleration or decel or both?have you got gas lately?i seen water in gas cause things like this.get some techron fuel system cleaner and put in gas tank....good for cleaning fuel system.if you take to dealer.....they will have to duplicate the problem to test and if they cant you will get charged.....and if the check engine light never came on then there will be no stored codes or freeze frame data to look at but will charge you for nothing.how often does it stall?
 
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Old 10-01-13, 09:35 AM
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When it stalls, it stalls on decel & usually when going into a turn, but not always. I put in Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of Sunoco Ultra 93 for a little extra octane. My wife puts in whatever is the cheapest regular she finds on her way to work. The problem initially would only occur after she was on the interstate for about an hour then while driving on local streets (25 mph), then it would stall as she was making a turn on the decel or pulling to a stop light/sign. It always starts right back up. However, now it is doing it more increasingly and on much shorter drives. I'd really be upset if I spend the $ to have the dealer run full diagnostics, find nothing, as it never throws error codes, however, the last time it stalled as she was pulling into the driveway, she said the oil light came on. I immediately checked the oil level & it was dead on the full line. So am I wasting my $ sending it to the dealer if they can't replicate the problem? I spoke with the service department at length explaining all of the parts I have changed out and how & when it usually stalls. Appreciate the tips, I will dump in some techron fuel system cleaner as soon as I can locate it locally. Thanks for the help & we'll see what happens tomorrow.

Regards,
fnolteiii
 

Last edited by fnolteiii; 10-01-13 at 09:38 AM. Reason: typo
  #6  
Old 10-01-13, 10:04 AM
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If you haven't done it already I would get a fuel pressure gauge on it to make sure you're getting optimal pressure out of the pump. The extra octane won't be a benefit, plus gas stations sell a lot less of it than the regular, so it's probably been in their storage tank longer with potential for being stale. The oil light should always come on when the engine stalls.
 
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Old 12-03-13, 11:31 PM
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Hmm. Sounds similar to the issue I had on my 2000 2.7 intrepid. Come to find it was my PCV Valve. It would run fine initially but once the car heated up it would get stuck closed and it would cause the car to die when coasting. The only way to prevent the car from dying was to accelerate more. Once I unplugged the electronic component that opened and closed the PCV valve, the car stopped dying all together. I never did get that part fixed as it was on back order at the time and I sold the car at that point. I upgraded to a 2003 ES fully loaded with moon rough and black leather interior. To my knowledge they stopped using PCV valves on the 3.5 engines in 2002. The connection to the PCV valve should be mounted on the firewall on the drivers side of the vehicle next to the engine (up top). Just simply unplug that connector and see if she dies again .
 
  #8  
Old 12-04-13, 09:27 PM
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Stall on decell

There is an idle stepper motor that fails a lot on those cars and wont leave a code. When I replace it I also clean throttle body but you say you have. If you have a vacuum leak that can also do what you describe. If you have access to a scan tool it will show lean fuel trim and it will be adding fuel to make up for the vacuum leak.
 
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