Engine machine shop practices...?

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  #1  
Old 11-05-13, 08:14 AM
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Engine machine shop practices...?

This may be kind of a strange question, but here goes... The 4.3 liter v6 in my '92 S10 Blazer started making the darnedest racket and I knew something was WAY wrong with it. So, after pulling the engine and tearing it down, I found it had spun the #1 rod bearing. Pretty sure the mains are okay, but it wiped out the big end of the rod and the rod journal on the crank. Looks like pistons and cylinders are okay too. This will be the first time I have gone this deep into engine repair, so I am unfamiliar with getting machine work done. I hope the shop I choose will help walk me through the process, but I also hope I can learn enough to not sound like an idiot when I talk with them. Among the things I wonder about - How far down do I need to disassemble the block before dropping it off at the shop? Is it standard practice to turn just one journal or ALL of them? Can the rod be machined or do I need to replace it? If I replace one rod, do I need to replace the rest of them? I plan to do as much evaluation as I am able to up front (crank end play, rod side clearance, main bearing clearance, etc.), but without specialty measuring tools I'm going to be kind of limited. I'd like to get this engine back together with as little expense as possible, but I also want to do it RIGHT so I don't have to do it again. In this light, any input or advice will be HUGELY appreciated. Thanks in advance - Chris
 
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  #2  
Old 11-05-13, 08:23 AM
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How many miles on it? Having one out of 6 newer, tighter and better could lead to more problems in the future.

Dick
 
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Old 11-05-13, 08:46 AM
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Thanks Concretemasonry. Got over 150K on the odometer. Sounds like I'll want them to freshen up all the rod journals at least, huh?
 
  #4  
Old 11-05-13, 08:49 AM
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Personally I would just by a remanufactured short block engine.
JASPER Engines & Transmissions: Remanufactured engine: diesel, marine, import
 
  #5  
Old 11-05-13, 09:27 AM
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For whatever reason, replacing the whole engine just isn't my nature. If the block were cracked, then maybe, but short of that I'm more of a repair-it kind of guy.
 
  #6  
Old 11-05-13, 11:11 AM
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You will be removing the crank so replacing the bearing inserts is a no brainer. All of them. Hows the rear main seal, timing chain? You'll need to pull the head to replace the damaged conn. rod, this would be the time to pull the other one and freshen up the valve guides and valves.If there is a ridge at the top of the cyls. this shows wear in the cyls could call for a rebore and new pistons and rings. This is what you can run into. The question is what do you want when you get done. If you want a good engine for many miles all the above should be addressed. As to whether you need to turn all the journals it depends on how they look. Your machine shop can advise you on this. Good luck.
 

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  #7  
Old 11-05-13, 11:20 AM
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One more thing rods can be reconditioned but Ill bet yours is too far gone new ones arent that expensive.
 
  #8  
Old 11-05-13, 11:29 AM
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Just came back in from the garage and, yes, there seems to be a pretty healthy ridge in all the cylinders. Can't see how I can dodge getting the cylinders bored. As to the one journal/all journals question - it's okay to mix standard and under-size rod bearings? Again, this is new to me. I want to end up with a strong and dependable engine; this vehicle's primary purpose is to carry my wife safely around in cold, crummy weather. Secondary purpose will be to have a little off-road fun in it... Bottom line - I don't want to be in this engine all the time. That's for a whole 'nother toy! Thanks for all so far. Keep it coming please. Chris
 
  #9  
Old 11-05-13, 03:03 PM
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Yes you can turn one journal. They used to come out and turn a journal with the motor in the vehicle. Back in the 40s and 50s many chrysler products came from the factory with turned cranks.
 
  #10  
Old 11-05-13, 03:52 PM
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The truck is over 20 years old. I think I'd be looking for a salvage yard engine with fewer miles on it from a reputable salvage yard.
 
  #11  
Old 11-05-13, 06:59 PM
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best bet is to drop it all off at the shop they will need everything to give you the best advise on where to go. how much to replace and what can be saved. you just cant cut corners on this type of work and expect flawless performace.
 
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