Trunk Lid Electric Opener Failure

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  #1  
Old 12-14-13, 03:23 PM
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Trunk Lid Electric Opener Failure

Wife called, said she could not open trunk on 2007 Chrysler 300 (60000) miles.
Had climb in thru backseat to trip emergency release handle to open it. Took cover off and checked wiring to release solinoid. Checked fuses relating to trunk light but there was none listed for the release mechanism. Thinking that I need 12 volts to go thru the yellow and brown wire when the button is pushed and I am not getting that. I am getting a constant 12 volts thru the center contact that goes to the solinoid, but not sure whether that means anything. Two questions.

Can I test the solinoid itself with twelve volts without damage, and is there a break point in the wire somewhere where I can test that for a break without tearing the whole car apart?

I have heard that these cars have a habit of wire breaks, but I cannot see anything obvous when I remove the rubber boot that covers them when they travel from the car to the Trunk lid.

If I can get the solinoid to activate with a 12 volt application, I will know what is next to do.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-14-13, 05:31 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Be careful what you jump with 12volts.
Checking voltages at the switch won't help much as the switch only tells the cluster/BCM what to do. A common problem is a wire breaking inside the boot that goes from the vehicle to the trunk lid.

The three wires should be ground, +12 to release trunk, 12v trunk ajar signal.

You will need to look at the release solenoid and confirm it has three wires and post their colors.
 
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Old 12-14-13, 07:49 PM
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i would first make sure the valay(sp?) switch was not flipped in the glove box. and will it work with the remote?
 
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Old 12-14-13, 08:49 PM
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Trunk lid opener failure

There is no valet switch that I can see in the glove box, just the glove box light switch. The opener will not work with the key fob remote either. There are 3 terminals on the solinoid. I think the wire that connects to the solinoid on the right as you look at it from the rear of the car is yellow with tan band running along it. The middle one tested with a hot 12 volts with the trunk open obviously so that one matches with the door ajar code. I could not see any wires with obvious breaks when I removed them from the protective boot where they come from the car to the trunk lid. I would run a by pass of this yellow and tan wire but I don't know where the best place to do that is.
 

Last edited by WML13; 12-14-13 at 08:53 PM. Reason: sentence structure
  #5  
Old 12-14-13, 09:20 PM
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In the illustration is the connector. I've labeled the cavities. I don't know if there is a place inside the car where you can test from. I have very sharp microtip probes that actually puncture the insulation... that's how I test.

After you unplug the release mechanism.... use an ohmmeter set to a low scale like Rx1 and check from cavity 1 to ground. The wire may be black/white. You should see a dead short.

Now check from the yellow/tan wire, cavity 3, to ground and you should measure 12vdc when the release button is pressed.

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  #6  
Old 12-20-13, 01:59 PM
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Trunk lid opener failure

Got the Dead short on the ground, and the 12 volts constant on the middle wire, but nothing when the button was pushed on the yellow wire with brown band. (door number 3. Reached as far back under the rear window as I could with a probe and attached the other end to the solinoid plug outlet, and found no continuity in the wire from those two points. Taking things apart around and in the protective boot, I discovered TWO broken wires, Yellow with brown band and purple with a yellow band. Repaired both wires and got two results. First, the solinoid that opens the truck door started to work, and two, the trunk light came on. (she never told me that has not worked for awhile.) When I put everything back together and started to close the trunk, I could see why the wires broke. They ALL get pinched by the trunk lid and car body when it closes. I can see why this is common with these cars....

Thanks everybody for the specs and clues!
 
  #7  
Old 12-20-13, 08:50 PM
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That was an easy repair.

Try repairing broken wiring in a door boot . .. ........ need I say more.


Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you got it working. I'll bet the wife is thrilled..... got her light back and no longer has to climb into the backseat to open her trunk on probably one of the only vehicles with no trunk key.




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