95 explorer no crank no start

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  #1  
Old 12-30-13, 11:21 PM
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95 explorer no crank no start

I have a 95 ford explorer xl 4x4 manual transmission and it's been giving me some problems that I can't figure out and I need some advice. Basically when I turn the key nothing happens, it seems like it's trying to draw power because the stereo turns off when the key is turned. I have replaced the starter, the starter solenoid, and the ignition switch and it still does the same thing. I have still been using it to get around because it will start up just fine and run strong if I pop the hood and take a screwdriver to the positive and negative bolts on the starter solenoid. I've checked all my fuses so I really have no idea of what it could be. If anyone can help or give suggestions that would be awesome. Thank you.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-31-13, 12:16 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Manual transmission has a starter interupt switch on the clutch pedal. That would be a good place to start checking.
 
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Old 12-31-13, 05:54 AM
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Another thing to check would be the ground to the solenoid -----
I've found two in the last six months that a simple cleaning the contact area
of the base and fender well took care of the problem.
you can use a jumper wire ( from the base of the solenoid to the neg. battery post) to test it.

-J.C.-
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-13, 07:56 AM
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Alright thanks, I'll try that.
 
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Old 12-31-13, 01:48 PM
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Oyts...
Sounds like bad contact at the battery...
OP, clean battery poles and cables terminals.
What you describing is a high resistance draw. As in - starter is trying to draw to crank, but there is a large resistor somewhere inline, so it has to draw from anywhere possible. Dimming lights. And badly oxidized battery terminals are just that resistor.
Of course, it goes both way. With such problem, BATTERY is not charging either, so after you cleaned it all, you need to charge battery. Walmart now has cute automatic chargers for $19. Will de-sulfate your battery also, as it is likely sulfated badly, due to poor charge.
 
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Old 12-31-13, 04:06 PM
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Well I'm thinking it may be a short somewhere along the wires going from the ignition to the starter solenoid, or it could possibly be the starter interrupter on the clutch pedal. I just bought a brand new battery a few weeks ago and the terminals are clean. Which is why I'm so confused with this. So all together I have a brand new battery, brand new starter and starter solenoid (the one that is mounted in the fender wall) and a new ignition switch. It doesn't pull a lot of power when the key is turned, just enough to hint that it is trying to do something. But still, nothing happens.
 
  #7  
Old 12-31-13, 04:32 PM
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It doesn't pull a lot of power when the key is turned, just enough to hint that it is trying to do something.
Listen carefully...... does anything click under the hood ?

It's not a starter or battery issue if you can jump it at the solenoid and start the vehicle.
It's not a short in the wiring. A short will blow a fuse..... it's an open in the wiring or circuit.

You need to take a test light and clip it to ground. Find the switch on the clutch. It will have at least two wires on it. One will become live when the key is turned to start and the second one will become live if the clutch pedal is held down.

Use common sense while working on and testing your vehicle. It's a manual transmission. Make sure it's in neutral and the wheels should be blocked before doing any testing.
 
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Old 12-31-13, 06:36 PM
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Yes, I do hear something click under the hood when the key is turned.

I have found my clutch switch and there is seven wires from the connector that clip into the switch itself. I am not quite sure how I am supposed to test it exactly.
 
  #9  
Old 12-31-13, 06:50 PM
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Okay so what I did was left the wires connected to the switch and just pulled the whole switch off of the clutch rod.

I found a good ground with the test light and someone help me turn the key while I tested each wire going into the switch from the connector and I didn't get anything. I also tried pushing the switch down all the way with the key turned and I still got nothing.

I triple checked the ground to make sure the light worked.
 
  #10  
Old 12-31-13, 07:04 PM
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Well, there is more between battery poles and starter than just cables terminals. You also have to have very good ground for negative off the battery, good ground on starter, engine ground, and all cable connectors, esp if you have pole clamp bolted onto the positive cable.
You have fusible links everywhere.
I'd say, you need to start with jumping starter and checking if it even works.

Diagnostic flowchart for a car that won't start or stalls - Troubleshooting for the starter, spark failure and the fuel pump
 
  #11  
Old 12-31-13, 07:07 PM
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Did this start RIGHT AFTER you replaced the battery, or it took some time?
As you know, bad NEW batteries happen. Also, by now, that battery is likely discharged or low charge anyway.
Does battery show well over 12V charge?
 
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Old 12-31-13, 07:10 PM
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If the battery reads low and you can jump start (or pop start the car with a standard transmission), the problem is with the battery or the charging system.
 
  #13  
Old 12-31-13, 07:16 PM
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No, this happened randomly. I came out to start it one day and it cut out about halfway through cranking and never tried cranking again. I know the starter is good and I know the battery is good.
 
  #14  
Old 12-31-13, 07:20 PM
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I bought all the parts I thought I needed after the fact.

But as of now I have no live wires out of the six that connect the clutch switch. The key was turned all the way when I checked each one individually and I tried two different ground spots just in case that might have been the problem.

So what could that tell me?
 
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Old 12-31-13, 07:27 PM
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You said you heard a click under the hood when you turned the key to start. I'm assuming you had the clutch pedal in. If you let the pedal up and don't hear the click then the clutch switch and the ignition switch are fine. Your problem is under the hood.
 
  #16  
Old 12-31-13, 08:07 PM
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It only clicks when I let go of the key after I turn it. It clicks with and without the clutch pushed in.
 
  #17  
Old 01-01-14, 07:55 AM
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Well, just out of curiosity, as it's manual transmission car - can you pop start it?
 
  #18  
Old 01-01-14, 06:23 PM
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I haven't tried because I haven't had to. I imagine it would though.

Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated.
 
  #19  
Old 01-01-14, 07:05 PM
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Oh the imagination... Thing that has no limits to it...
 
  #20  
Old 01-05-14, 01:44 AM
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I ran into this very recently. The problem is the crappy ford design on the actual molded HOT cable end that connects to the battery (I am sure they will say it is a supplier issue). Cut the end off and replace it and you are good to go. I know it looks intimidating with the other smaller wire molded into it but THAT IS your problem. You can cut the old one apart and see exactly what is wrong with it after you remove it. You will find serious interior corrosion in the fitting
 
  #21  
Old 01-17-14, 02:17 PM
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Buy a book that has the wireing diagram for your vehivle . I usually buy a Haynes or Chilton book .

Then follow the voltage from the battery , through out the starting circuit , verifying that it is " hot " at each point , when the key is turned to start . When you loose the " hot " at point " D " it is either that part or the wire from it to the first previous point that was " hot " .

When the alternator is charging the battery , voltage at the battery shouls be about 13.8 - 14 volts . With the car off & the battery fully charged , voltage will be slightly less than that .

God bless
Wyr
 
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