oil change

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  #1  
Old 03-27-14, 08:14 AM
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oil change

For my honda crv if I use 5w-20 does it matter whether it is the expensive or cheap kind?
 
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  #2  
Old 03-27-14, 08:34 AM
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As long as it meets the minimum specs for your engine...it shouldn't make a difference.
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-14, 09:03 AM
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oil

by that do you me some other spec than the 5w-20
 
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Old 03-27-14, 09:11 AM
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Somewhere on the label [maybe the cap] will be some letters/numbers. These letters/numbers will also be on the engine's oil cap. As long as the oil rating is the same [or the oil rating is higher] it's safe to use that oil in your engine.

Just went out and checked on the oil ratings, it will say API service followed by SN, SM, SL, etc. The oil you use must meet [or exceed] the specs for your engine
 
  #5  
Old 03-27-14, 10:42 AM
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oil

cool thank you for that. One thing that I have always wondered is after I have drained the oil from the plug can I make a small hole in the back of the oil filer with a hammer and a nail and let the left over oil in the filter drain out so it doesn't end up on the engine block and then my driveway.
 
  #6  
Old 03-27-14, 11:06 AM
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you could, but i wouldn't recommend it. just for the low chance that you have a problem getting the filter off, or something comes up, now you are stuck with a useless filter and car is undriveable. at least if the filter was stuck you could refill with oil, drive to the store to get a new filter wrench, etc.

if you put a catch pan under it you should catch the excess draining off. your hand might get dirty sure, but that just comes with the territory.
 
  #7  
Old 03-27-14, 11:13 AM
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oil

I could careless if my hands get dirty, it just seems like there should be some effective way to remove the oil filter without getting oil all over the back of engine and then having it drip for a week or two.
 
  #8  
Old 03-27-14, 11:38 AM
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i'm not sure how your filter is oriented, but sometimes engineers just make dumb decisions like that. perhaps try using shop towels around the filter, and cracking it slowly off. tighten it back up and use new towels until you get to where most of the oil is out. and wipe it down good when you're done?
 
  #9  
Old 03-27-14, 11:42 AM
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What yr CRV is it?.....................
 
  #10  
Old 03-27-14, 11:45 AM
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oil

for my engine the oil filter at like a 45 degree angle is right above some edge of the engine and so when I change the oil the oil not only goes all over the oil filer it also follows this edge of the engine to get all over the suspension and no matter how much I try to wipe of the engine it will still drip for quit a while. When I change the oil in the next couple weeks I will see if the rag idea works.
 
  #11  
Old 03-27-14, 11:49 AM
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oil

its a 2006 lx.............................
 
  #12  
Old 03-27-14, 11:54 AM
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oil

could I use a screw instead of a nail and hammer? I don't see how it could get stuck with a screw.
 
  #13  
Old 03-27-14, 12:00 PM
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Get the oil deflector... Honda sells them. Here is aftermarket but says genuine part...

Or do what you propose..

I think if you just crack the filter it will drip straight down without hitting anything.. Thats just from what I read.

But the deflector looks like something I would own if I had a Honda.......

Shop Discount Honda Accord Accessories - Maintenance Items
 
  #14  
Old 03-27-14, 12:05 PM
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oil

I will have to see if there is the space for the deflector, as for going slow I did that the first time. mess, because mine is angled up-ish I guess spills are just going to be part of the fun.
 
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Old 03-27-14, 01:46 PM
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My wife used to have a merc with a 2.5 V6 that when you removed the oil plug it drowned the exhaust pipe. I happened to talk to a guy that worked at one of those oil change places and asked what they did, he said they just spray on cleaner and wipe it up. I figured out if I tore up the oil filter box it made a good shield/diverter, paste board was too thick to fit

I don't know why they build cars with maintenance stuff that's hard to get to but it's a fact of life. If the shield doesn't work just plan on using some cleaner and a rag
 
  #16  
Old 03-27-14, 05:40 PM
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I had 04 V and had no issues with oil "all over the engine". Easiest out was to remove pass side wheel and reach right towards it.
For filters that are somehow always in the wrong place and drip oil onto unnecessary parts, I simply use large wide funnel placed underneath, so that it funnels - pun intended - oil into drain pan. I had and have several cars I have to do this for drain plug.
 
  #17  
Old 03-27-14, 06:18 PM
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I don't know why they build cars with maintenance stuff that's hard to get to but it's a fact of life.
I had a '96 Dodge where the oil filter was on the "back" side of the engine. I never saw it and never wanted to see it but took the silly thing to Jiffy Lube for the oil and filter changes. The battery was also hidden, it required removing the left front tire/wheel and then an access panel inside the wheel well. I got rid of that car almost exactly one year after I bought it.

The replacement car was (is) a 1997 Toyota Camry and the oil filter sits on an angle with the screw-on portion downward. I let it sit for about a half hour after running and the filter self-drains back into the engine. I rarely get more than a couple of drips when changing the filter.
 
  #18  
Old 03-27-14, 08:56 PM
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Not to get off subject but the best car I have in terms of filter change is the olds alero with the 2.2 ecotec motor. Filter is a cartridge changed from the top side... No mess... ever...

See black cap on right? Reminds me of my dads 59 chevy that had the cartridge..

 
  #19  
Old 03-30-14, 06:36 AM
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One of my Wife's GM FWD V-6 cars had a plastic " diverter " to deflect oil flow , when you removed the oil filter . Looked to be a factory part ?

I wrote earlier this AM , about working on the A/C on my cousin's 1999 LHS . Before we did that , he had to replace the battery . It was necessary to pull the LF wheel and an inner fender panel , below . Also the air filter box from above , to change out the battery ! :-(

To release tension on the 2 belts , to replace the A/C compressor , he had to remove the front brace , that goes all the way across the front of the car ( and holds the top of the radiator ) .

These engineers are insane ! Glad he owns that car , and not I ! :-(

Back to the oil filter situation . Probably more trouble than it is worth to install a remote oil filter ?

God bless
Wyr
 
  #20  
Old 03-30-14, 09:31 AM
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while I like the idea, yeah it probably is. Talking about oil changes can anyone tell me why it cost 35$ for me to do it but jiffy lube can do it for like 20$?
 
  #21  
Old 03-30-14, 09:37 AM
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Because jiffy lube gets oil for cost. Its a generic oil. My friend used to deliver to them. Also same with the oil filters. Cheap glued paper elements that are known to collapse and go into bypass...
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 03-30-14 at 04:33 PM.
  #22  
Old 03-30-14, 09:52 AM
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They buy oil in bulk...you are buying it off the shelf. Same thing with filters. Are they using name brand oil and filters? Are you?

$35 seems like a lot for 5 qts of oil and a filter.
 
  #23  
Old 03-30-14, 10:05 AM
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Do I also pay for the "Valvoline" brand?
 
  #24  
Old 03-30-14, 10:09 AM
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I use Valvoline but I look for it on sale, usually save about $10 that way.
 
  #25  
Old 03-30-14, 10:28 AM
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Buying by the case or in gallon jugs can also make it cheaper. Brand matters not to me, though I no longer do my own changes. My local family owned shop will do a change for $35 and take care of all fluids, hit the driveshaft u-joints, check tire pressure, and inspect brakes and suspension. Since I only put MAYBE 300 miles a month on my car (2 tanks of gas have lasted me 3 months)...thats only one change a year basically.
 
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